extendable hitch / tongue (1 Viewer)

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Aug 13, 2013
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Chandler AZ
I am working on some trailer modifications and am wondering about the merits of extending the tongue. I plan to extend the tongue enough to add storage for my fridge and a water tank - its a 416 like trailer. I'd like to make the tongue length adjustable so that I can set it long enough so that I can jack knife the trailer without hitting anything on the tongue with the back of my cruiser, and be able to shorten it in camp to keep it out of the way.

Is there any reason to extend it even longer than the jack-knife safe length? Perhaps for ease of towing at speed on the high way? Visibility is already pretty good through the back of our hundred series. Other reasons to make it very long?

I expect that for technical trail driving, shorter is better to allow good tracking behind the tow vehicle and to maximize ground clearance and maneuverability, although I guess I'd keep it at a length just long enough to avoid any damage when jack knifing. Would I want it to be longer?

If the 2" ID bar is the hitch receiver bar what is the bar that would slide inside the receiver bar called? Shank? Draw bar?
Also, how does one drill a hole through the sliding inside bar (shank/draw bar)? I believe it has to be a 5/8" diameter hole for a hitch pin. Use a big bit and drill slowly for a long timel? Or do you normally use a press and die for those kinds of holes?
 
I've done what you are thinking. I welded a receiver (2" ID) on the trailer and used heavy wall 2" for the last part of the tongue. With multiple holes or tongues I can adjust the tongue length and switch from 2" ball to a lunette for a pintle hitch. I bought a weld in/on receiver on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GN6LE4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TNMJQK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the 2" out side heavy wall I can get at the local steel yard
 
Thanks!!! How did you put all the holes in the 2” heavy wall? How did you decide how long to make it? Any pix?
 
Keep in mind the 2” dimension is the inside diameter.
 
Thanks!!! How did you put all the holes in the 2” heavy wall? How did you decide how long to make it? Any pix?
Drill press and 5/8” bit. I like to step up several bit sizes as my drill press is small and doesn’t like my 5/8” bit. 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, then 5/8. Use oil to keep the bit cool and lubricated.
 
and another non-trivial advantage of the removable tongue is the anti-theft potential.
 
Yes! That is my thought too. In camp stowethe extension, remove lunette and reinsert and lock hitch pin.

Thanks for the drilling advice. That’s the plan. Just need to be patient.
 
Put me in the not a fan of step drilling bin. Simple reason, every small step is another opportunity for the hole to move from where it should be. I use a center drill to spot it, and then use a drill of a diameter slightly larger than the web of the 5/8" drill (in this case), and then go right to the 5/8" drill.
 
@ntsqd - Thanks! I like the idea of using one slightly larger to make a centered starting "crater". When you say "not a fan of step drilling bin" do you mean a step bit, or a "bin" of people who like to use two (or more) different sizes of bits and progress up to the final diameter. I was thinking that the having a "pilot" hole would also allow the shavings to exit - especially for deeper bores.
 
No, I like step-bits AKA "Unibits", but for sheet metal only. If you're drilling something thicker than one step depth with a Unibit you're using the wrong tool. Not that I don't do exactly that on occasion......

"bin", group, camp, etc. that do not drill a large hole using a lot of intermediate sized drill bits.

Center drill:
0103134-24.jpg

#4 Plain Cut, 60° Incl Angle, High Speed 01031343 - MSC
 

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