I have factory lockers and have caught on they need to be worked now and then.I just saw someone on here say you can do this stationary by simply engaging?I would have though that to fully cycle the locks one would need to get on gravel,lock, drive a few feet ,unlock and drive a few more so all the parts get the requisite workout?
Depends on what is wrong. Usually it just means the actuator is gunked up and needs to be cleaned out, new grease, etc. Cost is minimal, should at least replace the O-ring on the output.
A new actuator is REALLY expensive, though. Like $450-500.
Pete, we'll fix this when we re-gear. I've rebuilt several of those actuators, including both of mine, it's not hard. I have a testing jig for it too.
Remember you must drive in an arch or a large circle. The locker will never engage if you drive in a straight line. The elockers are "locked" when the teeth on the axle dog collar mate with the teeth on the diff. If you drive in a straight line their position will not change in relation to on another. Driving in an arch will create a differential in RPMs between the axle and differential.
It may take a while at first. It will almost never be instantaneous.
That would be somewhat accurate, when you flip the switch all the electric bits within the actuator do all their motion within about a second.
After that you are just waiting for the bits in the diff to line up and the now loaded spring to push it in, nothing electric moves when the lockup happens.
Only problem is exercise should also be a test so you will need to have them lock and get the steady light.
The roads up here have been quite "fun" lately, with the snow and all, soo I've actually been using all 3 lockers, turn them on and off, just making sure that they are all working properly..
The fronts actually lock instantly, but the rear takes a while to lock..
I didn't know that the locker will not engage if you drive in a straight line though haha that's actually good to know..Thanks for the info!!
The rear locker dogs only have 5 teeth, so they require one wheel to slip about a maximum 20% of a revalution to engage. If your trying to engage them when not needed, with good traction, turning is a good way to make it happen. When you need locker it's to stop wheel spin, turn it on and when you get to the spot where traction is low one tire will slightly slip and the locker will engage. No need to drive in circles on the trail, if the actuator is working properly, even if the light is flashing when/if the locker is needed, a tire loses traction and slightly slips it will lock.
I have factory lockers and have caught on they need to be worked now and then.I just saw someone on here say you can do this stationary by simply engaging?I would have though that to fully cycle the locks one would need to get on gravel,lock, drive a few feet ,unlock and drive a few more so all the parts get the requisite workout?
