Engine/Trans drag . . . new problem

[Darkrealms]

Ok, a couple of days ago I started getting drag while I was in gear. I could coast, brake, roll just fine. But as soon as I put it in gear I felt this drag, like I was putting the brakes on the same time.
Yesterday I replaced the engine oil and manual transmission fluid. Figured the problem was in the transmission. Nope came out extremely clean, and the magnet on the stop plug had very little metal on it.

Tonight I'm going to replace the transfer case fluid and see if that helps. The fluid changes seemed to help at first but obviously it didn't last long.

Did a little looking but I'm not sure this fits anything I read so I figured I'd ask.

The drag is bad enough to knock my rpms down 500, and if I try to get up and go I can smell a little clutch (clutch reservoir is fine).
Any thoughts?

 

[2mbb]

I don't understand how you can compare engine rpms between the transmission in neutral and in gear. When it's in gear, the engine has to be turning in sync with the wheels. Depending upon your rolling speed and the gear you choose, the truck will either speed up or the engine, "in compression", will slow you down. If your truck doesn't feel like it has the pep it used to, and if you're smelling the clutch, then I would guess your clutch is slipping--time for a new one...

When you're coasting (in neutral or with the clutch disengaged), the transfer case is spinning--if the wheels are spinning. I don't think changing the transfer case fluild is going to do anything.

 

[Darkrealms]

I don't understand how you can compare engine rpms between the transmission in neutral and in gear. When it's in gear, the engine has to be turning in sync with the wheels. Depending upon your rolling speed and the gear you choose, the truck will either speed up or the engine, "in compression", will slow you down. If your truck doesn't feel like it has the pep it used to, and if you're smelling the clutch, then I would guess your clutch is slipping--time for a new one...

When you're coasting (in neutral or with the clutch disengaged), the transfer case is spinning--if the wheels are spinning. I don't think changing the transfer case fluild is going to do anything.

2mbb, sorry about that. I wasn't very clear. This is a new problem that started a couple of days ago. I was compairing my rpms from pre problem to now. I could be doing 35mph in 3rd before with around 1800, now its taking around 2300 rpms to hold the same speed. (big tires not geared down yet)
I figured I'd check the fluids for problems. It also seems odd that after I change out the fluids it seems to run better for about a day. There was no problems with the transfer case's fluid either came out just like the transmissions.
I was giving the info I did to eliminate problems like brakes, third members, etc. possibly causing the problem. I haven't ruled out a new clutch :[ just didn't want to have to do it. (I'm looking at a full engine/tranny swap in 30k miles, didn't want to dump much into the trany now)
Thanks for the input.

 

[lowtideride]

If your engine is doing more rpms than it use to at the same speed with larger tires it sounds like your clutch is slipping, did you adjust it yet?

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

I second lowtide-your clutch must be slipping, which would also explain the smell.

I think shortening the shaft from the pedal to the cylinder will help the clutch to engage sooner. you can do this by turning the U at the end of the cylinder rod that attaches to the pedal.
j

 

[Darkrealms]

Thanks lowtideride and Jan-78FJ40, yeah it was the clutch. It wasn't because of the lift, I've had that for a while. The truck has about 205k on it with no major work, I'll have to look through the POs paperwork and see if/when he had the clutch redone last.
Nothing like that feeling of coasting down the road in gear at 3500 rpms and nothing. Oh well, looks like I'll have something to do this weekend.

Sad thing is now looking back on it, I think I know what caused it. Little over a week ago I towed someone off an overpass that was dead. They didn't quite know how to brake when they were supposed to and my clutch had some problems because of it. Oh well. At least the trany and tcase were clean.

 

[Pluton]

If your truck has 205K miles and only now needs a clutch, don't feel bad...you made it longer than most. The PO of my 60 had the clutch changed at something like 60K miles...did they NOT know how to drive[all city] or what?

 

[Darkrealms]

If your truck has 205K miles and only now needs a clutch, don't feel bad...you made it longer than most. The PO of my 60 had the clutch changed at something like 60K miles...did they NOT know how to drive[all city] or what?

60k miles?!?!?!? thats crazy. Most normal vehicles should make it farther than that!
Just drives me crazy that I'm just gonna dump it out in the near future.

 

[Tinker]

If you do it yourself it'll be relatively cheap, plus you'll have the confidence of a new clutch.

 

[srplus]

no matter what...

replace the pilot and throwout bearing. give the real seal a good check and replace if the faintest hint of a leak. Carefully inspect the yoke and make sure both it and the pivot ball are in good shape - if not - replace... you only want to do this once... get it all while you're in there.