Engine Re-build Best Practices

[Driving Daisy]

This weekend I removed my 3FE for a re-build this week. My question is what should I replace now that the motor is out?
Motor mounts
Fuel Injectors, (clean, how to?)
vacume lines
Heater hose
etc..

Any other tips for re-install and break in.
Thanks for the help!

 

[tonkota]

Are you assembling it yourself? If so, washing the block and crank with a good liquid laundry detergent is a good idea. After that, wipe it down with the oil you plan to use.

And if it's not too late, have them use the timing gears from a 2F. They are all metal, unlike the fiber one on the 3F-E. Mine had only 15k on it and was cracking.
http://www.steelnthings.com/FJ62/crack.jpg

 

[Tinker]

There's an outfit called RC Engineering IIRC that will clean, blueprint, flow match your injectors for $25/ea.

I'd have the block "boiled" (hot tanked) at the machine shop if you get it bored.

Wrap it up on the engine stand when you're not working on it (big trash bag).

All new motor mounts & hoses would be nice, too.

 

[Driving Daisy]

Great suggestions!
Any suggestions on where to go for Motor Mounts?

 

[Aseif007]

tonkota,

Is there any reasoning to this other than your experience? Do you have knowledge of other resin gears failling? My OEM resin gear lasted 300,000 miles. Toyota's reasoning for the change was to reduce weight and noise. I had no reservations about reinstalling the resin gear when I did my rebuild. Your gear was probably damaged during the install, or something to that effect. I would use the OEM gear, these motors have a reputation for long lives and the resin gear is always part of that equation.

Driving Daisy,

Also, if you motor is high milage then why not replace the oil pump. The oil pump failling would be a lame reason for your newly rebuilt motor to fail. And I am assuming you are changing the journal bearings, rod bearings, rings, and having the connecting rods, crank, and cam checked to see if they are within allowable tollerances. At 300,000 miles all my bearing were still fine, yet I changed them since I was already there and they are not very expensive. I second the replacement of the colling systems hoses as well. Not a big expense if you order from a dealer that honors TLCA. Ever part of my rebuild except for the cam was OEM, even the motor mounts. The cost was not much more than the aftermarket equivalent, but all these parts are %100 compatible. Good luck with your rebuild.

Are you assembling it yourself? If so, washing the block and crank with a good liquid laundry detergent is a good idea. After that, wipe it down with the oil you plan to use.

And if it's not too late, have them use the timing gears from a 2F. They are all metal, unlike the fiber one on the 3F-E. Mine had only 15k on it and was cracking.
http://www.steelnthings.com/FJ62/crack.jpg

 

[tonkota]

The OE gears are of high quality. That said, unless you are specific with the engine shop up front, they will probly use what they normally do to make a proffit. I didn't specify, and the shop is one with a great reputation and one I trust still. I switched to the steel gears and to be honest, they are not louder than the fiber gear. I have no knowlege of any other gears failing. To be fair, the OE gear that came off the engine that was neglected (the oil may have been changed, but I doubt it) was in fine shape at 174000 miles.

Steel gears are better - that is my .02