Engine Oil and Gear Lube

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TEXASYETI

TEXASYETI

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jun 27, 2010
Threads
138
Messages
761
Location
Helena, Montana
I was wondering what kind of engine oil and gear lube you are running in your 60's. I have done a lot of searching and it seems some things may have changed with the heavily favored Rotella and Delo oils lately. I think one thread called them "sunset oils" or something? So many opinions and I don't think there is ONE best oil but just looking for your experiences.

My truck has been sitting for a year and I want to get it started on the right foot. It has 200,000 miles on the engine.

Thinking I will stick with dino for the engine and am looking at synthetic for the diffs, tranny, and t-case

So, what do you like? do you run the same in the diffs, tranny, and t-case or run something different?

Thanks.
 
I've been running Castrol GTX in my 2F. Seems to do well.

And in the diffs, transmission, and transfercase I run generic "Coastal" gear oil I get from Autozone or the likes. I don't remember the specific weight, but I don't think it matters too much as long as its lubing the gears, and close to suggested specs.
 
I've used Rotella 15W-40 Engine oil and Rotella or NAPA Gear lube in the diffs, tranny, and t-case. I know the PO used Jiffy Lube oils for 10 years before me, and my tranny and t-case were spotless and the engine oil looks like honey on the dipstick between oil changes, so I don't think it matters as long as it is changed regularly.
 
I use the Castrol GTX like Kline. And I use the Napa gear oil. It's labeled as 80/85/90.
 
Thanks for checkin in guys. As for coolant are you just using a typical green coolant like prestone?

There were some threads much earlier about mixing red Toyota coolant and green coolant leading to a sludgy buildup. Some members have commented that our cruisers came with green coolant so no worries with using prestone or something similar.
 
Like I said in that other thread, you need an oil that is still just CI-4 / SL rated. I choose the cheap oils, like the Castrol GTX Diesel 15w-40, rather than an expensive syn so I can change often... 2Fs have massive bearings that chew up oil.
 
I run Cat Diesel Engine Oil, since it's still CI-4 rated with lots of ZDDP. :meh:
 
I'd love to run that CAT oil, it's just hard to find in the middle of La-La land... I don't want to have to rely on oil that's shipped to me. But if there's a John Deer dealer (I think they sell it), or CAT office or Tractor supply near you, it's a great oil.

I'm not sure of this, but I bet there's a couple of tractor places in Tejas. :D :rolleyes:

Me, I gotta run what the Hoi Polloi run.

:steer:
 
Oils and Lubricants is always a great topic! I don't care if it gets talked about every day or not.

One thing that we must remember when it comes to engine oils is the ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl-Dithio-Phosphate) level. Some modern engine oils do not contain an appropriate level of ZDDP. Modern engine oils are built for modern day engines, roller lifters, rockers and the sort which require less ZDDP. Running a low ZDDP level engine oil in a flat tappen engine (Like the 2F) can induce premature wear.

Oils like Rotella T, Chevron Dello other Diesel oils include an appropriate level of ZDDP (Approximatley 1200 ppm +). Not only that, these diesel engine oils have a lot of good detergents and additives to keep soot and dirt particles homogeneously suspended. This alone promotes icreased filtering through your favorite filter.

RACING oils contain a large amount of ZDDP, BUT... They do not contain detergents to keep your engine clean.

I like Rotella T.

Gear Oil...

As for GEAR OIL, As long as your oil meets SAE J2360 Spec, you are covered to a GL-5 rating +. There are two trains of thought.

1. Change gear oil often with Dyno based lube.

2. Use Synthetic and leave it alone.

My thoughts are if you are prone to driving in conditions that require frequent changes like Water, mud runs or whatever, Use Dyno oil (J2360 Spec) and change it often.

If you run highways and backroads with very little chance of contamination, I would use Dyno oil, change it often, get your diffs cleaned up nicely, and if you don't have any pinion leaks, switch to Synthetic.

Back in the day, we had 8 tracks and cassette tapes, now we have DVD and CD's. It's called technology, and today, Synthetic Oils and lubes are superior.

WC
 
Rotella T and Delo LE used to contain those levels of ZDDP ... The new SM rated versions do not, more like 800-900 ppm.

If you can find the current Rotella T CJ-4 and SM rated ZDDP levels that say it's more in the 1200 ppm range, I'd like to see it. Please post a link. My info may be wrong...

And 1200 ppm is about the minimum requirement for a flat-tappet engine, btw.
 
Well I know that people have debated oil for the trans, if you should use GL 4 or GL 5? I would think that GL4 is the way to go. I am going to put Redline MT-90 GL 4 oil in my FJ 60 trans, and see if it improves the shifts.


Zack
 
Spike Strip said:
Rotella T and Delo LE used to contain those levels of ZDDP ... The new SM rated versions do not, more like 800-900 ppm.

If you can find the current Rotella T CJ-4 and SM rated ZDDP levels that say it's more in the 1200 ppm range, I'd like to see it. Please post a link. My info may be wrong...

And 1200 ppm is about the minimum requirement for a flat-tappet engine, btw.
Click to expand...

I contacted Rotella the other day, they told me that all recent manufacturerd Rotella T Oil, both 15w/40 and 10w/30 contain 1200 ppm. And yes, that is the number to shoot for.

I contacted Valvoline Racing oil also, it was 1000ppm.

WC
 
Thanks WC, that's good to know - I had read where people were doing VOAs on Rotella T and getting in the 800-900 range, but Shell may have up'd the amt.

I like Rotella T and would love to run it, considering Wally mart has jugs and it's like 12 bux.
 
Well, here is what I did. I got some of the Castrol GTX Diesel after doing some research. Thanks for the recommendation on this one Spike Strip. Having seen all the folks who use Rotella T, I really leaned towards it but having read that these types of oils had reduced their levels of ZDDP because trucks are starting to run catalytic converters I shied away from it.

Now I see the information from Woodscustom and I'd wish I'd known that earlier.

I did buy some Rislone Engine Oil supplement. Someone suggested it in another thread and it seems to be something to consider.

So, one quart of Rislone and a little over 7 quarts of Castrol GTX Diesel.

photo140-M.jpg



Then I got some Sta-Lube gear oil. I went to NAPA and had never seen the brand. Did a quick google on the iphone and the second hit was from a very well respected BMW motorcycle guru who suggested this in older BMW tranny's. It is the GL-4 rating so it will no go after bronze, etc. It was actually fairly expensive at $31.50 for a gallon.


photo141-M.jpg



Thanks a lot to those who chimed in. the biggie seems to be that Rotella T is still at 1200 ppm of ZDDP. Seems like you have to call every other day to stay on top pf this stuff!

:cheers:
 
The Mobil 1 high mileage oils have a healthy dose of ZDDP. Actually Mobil just increased the zinc phosphorus in these oils 20%.

Sent from my Android using IH8MUD
 
jasonbraswell said:
The Mobil 1 high mileage oils have a healthy dose of ZDDP. Actually Mobil just increased the zinc phosphorus in these oils 20%.

Sent from my Android using IH8MUD
Click to expand...


Link ?

I'm only asking 'cuz a lot of people say stuff like that, but when I try to track down the numbers, they just ain't there .... Seems they always read it somewhere ....

:D :meh:
 
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