Engine air filter. Whats considered dirty? (1 Viewer)

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General question for the group. I just changed the engine air filter at 17k miles and it looked virtually new.

I saved it but really would like to know what everyone does in similar situations. I feel like it has plenty of life left.

My 200 is not on gravel roads or in dusty environments. Some would call it a mall cruiser.

Would like to hear thoughts or even see some photos.

I've run into this on my wife's sequoia. The filter looks pristine and I'm replacing it.

Thank you
Mark
 
General question for the group. I just changed the engine air filter at 17k miles and it looked virtually new.

I saved it but really would like to know what everyone does in similar situations. I feel like it has plenty of life left.

My 200 is not on gravel roads or in dusty environments. Some would call it a mall cruiser.

Would like to hear thoughts or even see some photos.

I've run into this on my wife's sequoia. The filter looks pristine and I'm replacing it.

Thank you
Mark

Really all about air flow, which isn’t always easy to determine by the appearance of the filter. That’s why I find this unit helpful… My install:

1663552848558.jpeg


It measures vacuum level behind the filter. When the vacuum exceeds acceptable levels as shown (and held as a reading on the device) its time to replace your filter.

Very simple to install.

83C6A434-E924-4B18-843A-5FA2164D223D.jpeg


On Amazon:
K&N 85-2445 Filter Minder; Push in https://a.co/d/8qa0dS8
 
Thanks for the info.
I did not know about this product. Got one from amazon and installed it last night.
Here is a write up to make it even easier to install and be aware of the constraints the LX engine cover imposes on the location.
 

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Thanks for the info.
I did not know about this product. Got one from amazon and installed it last night.
Here is a write up to make it even easier to install and be aware of the constraints the LX engine cover imposes on the location.

There ya go.
 
Wasn't there a post years ago from a user who used either TechStream or some other OBDII reader and watched WOT flow through the throttle body? As I remember it he found that flow didn't decrease until after he covered something like 75% of the air filter surface with duct tape? Further, I believe it's the case that particle filtration improves with contamination as some of the larger element pores become blocked.
 
Wasn't there a post years ago from a user who used either TechStream or some other OBDII reader and watched WOT flow through the throttle body? As I remember it he found that flow didn't decrease until after he covered something like 75% of the air filter surface with duct tape? Further, I believe it's the case that particle filtration improves with contamination as some of the larger element pores become blocked.

Yea, the air filter is a caking filter. As it filters, dust cakes on the element which forms a "tighter" filter media. This eventually does clog the filter entirely. The add-on previously posted attempts to measure the clogging by comparing atmospheric pressure to the pressure in the airbox. GM used (might still use?) something like that on airboxes and allowed for filter replacement when needed, saving owners some money. As long as the thing is decent quality and seals properly, I think it's worthwhile.
 
Yea, the air filter is a caking filter. As it filters, dust cakes on the element which forms a "tighter" filter media. This eventually does clog the filter entirely. The add-on previously posted attempts to measure the clogging by comparing atmospheric pressure to the pressure in the airbox. GM used (might still use?) something like that on airboxes and allowed for filter replacement when needed, saving owners some money. As long as the thing is decent quality and seals properly, I think it's worthwhile.

Just a bit more info after several years of use—
The device simply measures maximum vacuum created by the engine post-filter & marks the highest vacuum level created against its calibrated spring. The marker is easily reset whenever you like, but obviously should be reset with each filter change. Just have to glance at the marker occasionally (important to select the right one and spring calibration) and then there’s no need to open the airbox so often…which isn’t all that reliable a way ti check anyway (see below)

What’s cool about it is…it solves the problem of trying to judge the filter’s condition from simple mileage, or visual inspection. Filters can look ok but be clogged…and can look bad, but not really be clogged. This really does remove the guesswork.

Also, it lets you experiment with unusually-severe conditions or revs…like after extremely dirty/sticky conditions. -Either unusually heavy engine revs/vacuum…or after an extreme road trip.

One thing is certain in my case—that post snorkel, I’m going through fewer filters…and this little add-on helps to know it.
 
I like the idea because I can change the filter on its actual conditions. If I go through very dusty conditions for sure the filter gets more clogged than clear air.
But because I live in PNW we get regular rain (not in the past month though) that cleans up the air. There is no need to change the filter at the factory intervals based on my experience with my other cars.
Now I'll just look at the indicator at every oil change when I have to open the hood anyway.
 

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