Electrical wiring soldering flux?

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e9999

e9999

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I was given several spools of old-fashioned solder . So it is solid wire, no flux (and probably has some lead in it too). Gave that a try on 12 ga and it didn't work very well at all without flux. Wouldn't wet. Tried the same with modern flux core solder wire and it was a breeze despite my shaky technique. So I'm wondering if one can still get the flux separately. Looked at 2 hardware store nearby and they had plenty of flux for plumbing but nothing for electrical. In fact, the flux I saw said clearly "not for electrical".
Can one get the flux separately? If so, what type would you recommend if there is a choice?
 
Might try Radio Shack, although I couldn't tell you if they still carry such things or only cell phones any more...

I get mine from a local electronic supply store - as opposed to an electrical supply (building wiring). Something like Deoxit or MG Chemicals brand.
 
thanks
why can't one use plumbing flux for wires if you guys know?
 
e9999 said:
thanks
why can't one use plumbing flux for wires if you guys know?
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You can,..just clean the final joint with some soapy spray and wipe it off.
 
e9999 said:
why can't one use plumbing flux for wires if you guys know?
Click to expand...

Two reasons - plumbing flux is corrosive and conductive.

Corrosive: not enough to worry about when you are soldering a big chunk of copper pipe, but enough to be a concern when you're talking about little strands of wire.

Conductive: Typically, in use, the flux "melts" and spreads. For items like circuit boards, you can end up with shorts between circuits due to the flux being conductive.

As OJ states, you can use plumbing flux for electronics if you clean it thoroughly - thoroughly being the key word. However, it's a heck of a lot easier to use the proper product.
 
it's a lot cheaper and easyer to buy a spool of the right stuff...the flux is already in the core so you won't have to hunt up anything once you found the solder! no flux brushes either.
 
Although not rosin core solder do check the type of solder (metals and ratio) because that will have an effect on the temperature it melts at and its uses. The diameter also plays a smaller role in how easily it melts.

Just for kicks I searched Wikipedia and found way more info about solder than I ever care to know. About 1/6 of the way down you'll see Pb60Sn40 in the left column which is the standard 60/40 lead/tin ratio for most wire soldering. Once you know what metals are in the solder you'll have a good idea how they can be used.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder
 
Eric: Re-cycle the solder, in the long run it will save you time and money to just go buy a roll of flux core. You can buy liquid flux but it makes a mess.

Foreigner: Because of the RoHS initiative in European and it's Japanese equivalent lead free products are now the standard in electronics for the global market. The interesting thing is the electronics industry accounted for a small percentage of the lead used world wide. The vast majority of lead was, and still is, used in the automotive and appliance industries, which have waivers allowing them to continue using lead.:rolleyes: As you mentioned lead free solder is more difficult to work with this has resulted in a major re-tooling of the electronics industry, countless hours of research and development and in some cases complete product redesigns are required to meet the RoHS standard.
But I'm not bitter or anything.
 
I still have, and use Burnleys soldering paste. I had it leftover from my military days. Don't even know if this stuff is still available, but it works great for wiring.
 
Go buy a can of tinning flux and a spray bottle of Windex. Use the tinning flux as normal with the solder, spray the final joint with windex to neutralize the corrosive properties. It's worked fine for me for years now.
 
rusty_tlc said:
Foreigner: Because of the RoHS initiative in European and it's Japanese equivalent lead free products are now the standard in electronics for the global market. The interesting thing is the electronics industry accounted for a small percentage of the lead used world wide. The vast majority of lead was, and still is, used in the automotive and appliance industries, which have waivers allowing them to continue using lead.:rolleyes: As you mentioned lead free solder is more difficult to work with this has resulted in a major re-tooling of the electronics industry, countless hours of research and development and in some cases complete product redesigns are required to meet the RoHS standard.
But I'm not bitter or anything.
Click to expand...

I worked for a company in Montana for a few years (ending in 2010) that makes changeable-message LED signs. During that time they were looking at going lead-free but were putting off for lack of time and money. Fine with me, since I was the repair tech/handyman. :D
 
MOfj40 said:
Go buy a can of tinning flux and a spray bottle of Windex. Use the tinning flux as normal with the solder, spray the final joint with windex to neutralize the corrosive properties. It's worked fine for me for years now.
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Spray ammonia on electronics? I would not recommend this.
 
rusty_tlc said:
Spray ammonia on electronics? I would not recommend this.
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Consumer grade Windex is hardly a significant source of ammonia. It does have a very small amount which is why it works to neutralize the flux. It's nowhere near strong enough to cause damage on its own.

Everyone is entitled to their opinion but I have board level solder joints that have been functioning in the field in production environments for 10 years with this method so it's good enough for me.

:beer:
 
digikey.com has quite a few options of flux you can order and their shipping is prompt. I also believe that radioshack does still carry the paste flux. I have a tin can of it in the garage now.
 
Do not use the solder to hold together the wires in home wiring, you must use a mechanical means and/or the conductors, if solid, must be twisted together then soldered.

The reason for this is the soldered connection can fail due to heat caused by an electrical circuit if overheating or worse, under a faulted condition. The temperature a wire can see, for a short time, can be extreme under a faulted condition and that will melt the solder and then you loose the connection which can cause other issues such as a shock hazard.
 
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