electrical system, Newbie needs help :flipoff2:

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Silascrum

Silascrum

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Feb 9, 2008
Threads
4
Messages
62
Location
Raleigh, NC
I am brand new to mud and am in desperate need of help. I have a '78 fj40. The engine was rebuilt about 8 years ago. It runs great, no problems there. The problem is electrical. I just got it on the road and then starting doing small things here and there, then the electrical system said, :flipoff2: . Appropriate for the newbie. (Its not much to look at right now. I actually haven't seen any on here with rust as bad as mine but she runs great) From what I've read, one thing at a time. I have a Haynes. I have heard that FSM are the best. Would this help in solving my electrical problem? There are wires everywhere that go to nothing. I assume this is why something somewhere shorted out. I've tried to look up behind the dashboard, the location of the problem, and have found its no easy task to simply find and fix. Should I start to rewire myself or get a pro to do it? What kind of time and money am I looking at here if I rewire? And where could I get something like this done in the triangle area? Any help on my slowly but surely rebuild would help. Thanks.
 
Welcome, first off it could be as simple as checking to see what works and what doesn't (i.e. all your switches, spark at the coil and distributor). Check your fuses to see if any are blown, if so you havae a place to start and thats trace the wires at which the fuse blew. Second would be to take a test light and test your wires to know your "hot" wires.

Third if you chose to have someone to wire it would be check this post:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/nc-olde-north-state-cruisers/88269-local-shops-your-area.html

Lastly, wiring is not a very difficult task just takes a lot of patience and time. EZ-wiring has a very affordable wiring harness with labeled wires, check their site out.
Home

Keep us updated and we will try and help diagnose the problem with you.
 
I'm in the same boat as you! I've got power to ignition and all, brakes, backup lights, hazards, fuel sensor, etc. But, I have no interior lights nor running/turn signals. My next step is to start checking if the grounds are rusty.
And post some pics! I'll let you know if yours is rustier than mine (doubt it!)
 
Yep I highly doubt yours is rustier than mine was either. I'm in the same boat as you. They used indoor lamp wire to hook up the headlights and then that to a toggle swtich. That was the good wiring.

I agree though that wireing just takes time and patience. Well that and a lot of wire and connectors. Maybe some soldering and an iron. I am scared to do mine. Not like it will get worse than it already is though.

Where are you located?
 
Thanks for the response.

So I have checked the fuses with a test light. No juice there. The battery may be low now because I can't get it to turn over. When I was getting juice there was smoke coming from the dashboard near the steering column. The next step is to look around under there until I find a bad wire and repair it. What is the easiest way to get in that dashboard? When I had juice, wipers didn't work and signals worked half the time. Not sure if all is related or not. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

I live near Tryon Rd. and Lake Wheeler Rd. in the Camden Crossing Condos off Trailwood Hills. Part of the problem there is I have no real place to work, not many tools either. If anyone wants to stop by feel free. Not only am I a newbie to Cruisers, but also to wrenching, but I know enough to get by.

You probably do have or did have rustier Cruisers. On mine where there was once rust, there is now nothing but big holes. I'll get some pics up soon.
 
My rusty cruiser

rustiest ever?
front view 1.webp
 
Got it to run yesterday by jumping it off. It was good to hear that sound.

I've managed to start pulling wires out now. I have a pretty good idea of where the bad wire might be, and its not gonna be easy. Patience.

The last guy I had work on it ran a bypass instead of finding and fixing the short. I think this wire was for the ignition. Before the bypass was ran something was not allowing the alternator to recharge the battery. I could also turn the ignition off, but the engine would still run (I just remembered all of this.) In addition the wipers aren't working and the signals don't blink (I'm pretty sure thats a fuse problem though)

What do you all think? Where could I find some diagrams on the wiring system?

Also, If anyone needs any help I'd be glad to trade cruiser grease. Being a newbie I have a lot to learn. When is the next HAMOM (finally figured out what that meant) or meeting of some sort?
 
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Welcome to the Rusty Cruiser Club! I'm actually not TOO far from you. Head east down Tryon, right on Hammond/Mechanical/Timber and go towards Lake Benson... I don't have a plethura of tools, but I've got some... let me know if you need anything. I've got an 8 month old, so my time is like next to nothing, but I do get to manage some wrench time every other weekend or so... :princess: loves me and the cruisers...
 
thanks for the diagrams Prez.

Think I might stop by your place soon Garnerfj40 and check out your rig.

I am quickly realizing how useful a garage or even a yard would be in my attempts to get my cruiser road worthy.

Torn down the dash to see the wires. I'll let you know when I actually have something...
 
I have found the source of the smoke. Felt it and its hot as hell. Now all I have to do is pull the wires out and replace those sections. I keep running out of daylight. (Taking my time recently I, as in Colony Tire off 401, just had to replace my valve gasket and and tranny pan gasket and filter on the s10.)

I'm just going to replace the bad portions of these wires instead of everything. Should be rollin' without catchin' on fire by saturday! Gonna have to charge the battery though. More to come this weekend.
 
The only way it would catch fire is if the wire which is shorting is between the battery and the fuse block OR if somone bypassed a fuse. That's the main thing you want to confirm. The intended purpose of a fuse is to break the circuit when the rated amperage is exceeded. In other words, a short circuit causes excessive current draw to chassis ground. When this happens, very high heat is generated at the failure point and along the length of the wire that is involved in the failure (between the +Voltage source and the failure point). In a normal scenario, the excess current causes the fuse to blow almost instantaneously, thereby preventing a fire. Bypass the fuse, and this proteciton is no longer there. That is why I strongly urge anyone who is repeatedly blowing a particular fuse to track the circuit, and not do like most dopes and put a bigger fuse in its place (ie a .22 casing). MAKE SURE ALL CIRCUITS ARE FUSED BEFORE YOU PUT THAT THING ON THE ROAD!!

Good luck!
 
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