EGR pipe removal suggestions

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Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Threads
46
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Location
Oklahoma City, OK
I tested the EGR valve and determined it needed to be replaced. I used penetrating oil and a torch to get the top pipe fitting disconnected. I saw the egr pipe had a blown out side and it broke off with a little twisting of the pipe. Now I can get the 27mm socket over the end but its really siezed on there. I have oiled the threads for the last few days and its still not budging. However, I have yet to keep the torch lit due to the obtuse angle, therefore only applying oil.

Has anyone had success at removing this part in such a condition?
 
Update

I got a torch on the fitting, but it has yet to budge. Is there a chance of messing up the exhaust gas cooler, if I try to impact it off? Any suggestions?
 
As a last resort with threaded pipes & tubes you can always cut them off and then use a open-ended hacksaw to slit the inside of the pipe stub left in the female portion. It's wise to leave 1/2" or so sticking out when you cut off the pipe, then you can grab it with your vice-grips and twist the stub out. You may have to take it out in chunks, requiring two or more slits to be cut inside.

Hours of fun!
 
Just went thru overhaul of smog system. The best way start by removing the shields on the PS yoke and flat pan that goes to frame. Get under the truck remove the two bolts that bolt the EGR pipe to exhaust manifold and the two bolt that hold the EGR cooler to the engine block. This will allow you to pull down the whole assembly of the flex line to EGR, EGR cooler and EGR pipe. Repair and replace parts reassemble and slip unit back into place. Make sure you get the angle of the EGR pipe on cooler right so it will hit the flange at the exhaust manifold properly. Sounds complicated but once you clear the way and get under the truck you will see. :cheers:
 
Are you talking about the steel union that connects the EGR pipe to the exhaust manifold? I had to soak mine with Kroil for a LONG time before attacking it, and when I took it off, I was holding an impact wrench on it, highest torque setting in reverse, and it still took about a half hour of standing there with the wrench cracking away at it. When they get this old, they're in there GOOD. I couldn't have done it without the impact. Would've been impossible.
 
Know you probably have it fixed by now, I had same trouble, I used impact with no results, but sprayed it with PB Blaster 3 day in a row after driving it, and believe it or not it came of with just a rachate and a pice of pipe for leverage.
 
i almost broke my knuckles on that thing
 
My answer to EGR flange nuts, and the kind of fouling caused by EGR on 145K Kms truck. Genuine mileage by the way!;) The manifold was almost as bad: up to 1/8 deep layer of oil and soot. The oil is normal for the 2L engines, but no EGR = no soot.
Toyota EGT wrench.JPG
 
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