Edited- new thought about this, Troubleshoot a dual battery system with Blue Sea 7622 in No Colorado to Denver (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Threads
47
Messages
412
Location
Fort Collins, CO
Instead of going through all this troubleshooting, I'm highly contemplating just getting a Redarc Dual input 40 amp in vehicle DC battery charger.
That would resolve a few issues, #1 I would have a proper charger the AGM batteries, #2 I would get rid of the Blue Sea 7622 and it wouldn't try to equalize the batteries, #3 I could reduce my 0 awg cables down to 4 awg, #4 I would have a solar charger and I could get rid of my Renogy solar charger.



Starting battery is a NorthStar 24F AGM, accessory battery is a NorthStar group 31 AGM. Using the Blue Sea 7622. I have had this system for 7 years and it worked flawlessly.
Suddenly the relay keeps clicking off and on while driving the truck. The batteries are 5 months old, I shore charge every night, the Blue Sea ACR 7622 is brand new. Why would that relay
keep clicking off and on like it's detecting a voltage drop and then it's fine.

I'm requesting help from someone who can troubleshoot my system now, or considering the Redarc BCDC 2420 as it may be more appropriate for the AGM's.
I'd compensate someone for their time to troubleshoot my current system or install the Redarc system.

I'm in Fort Collins, CO, so anyone from Denver to Fort Collins, if you would be intereted.
 
Last edited:
My only thoughts are:

1. Terminals/connections may not be perfectly snug. I had a loose terminal that caused a somewhat similar circumstance.

2. Faulty ACR. A small percentage are likely imperfect, and I imagine Blue Sea could help troubleshoot or replace the unit.

As you say, the ACR is brand new, so I would lean towards option 2. Connecting your battery tender to just one battery so the relay is required for dual charging may allow you to view this well. I would call Blue Sea, as it sounds like a faulty product.

Good luck.
 
I second the bad connection, although I had a new AGM battery leak/fail so just cause they are 5 months old doesnt mean s***. I like the Red Arc & Blue Sea products but after several failures that were easily fixed but caused some stress when they fail while you are on a trip I decided to go back to a manual switch to separate the fridge battery which gets the solar charge when separated from the start batt. I used a good quailty Moroso switch NOT a PICO. The fridge tells me the system voltage on my phone. Just have to remeber to link them back up if needed so fridge doesnt get stopped by low voltage circuit. I have a red light on dash that indicates wether they are linked or stand alone. Before you give upon Blue Sea I would put 2 different batteries in and see if it still cycles relay. I know this willcause shock waves but the best battery I ever had offroad was an old redtop optima, not now,I tired a blue topand it failed in 2 or 3 years, I am looking for a lithium ion , any info. you know on those would be appreciated.
 
Starting battery is a NorthStar 24F AGM, accessory battery is a NorthStar group 31 AGM. Using the Blue Sea 7622. I have had this system for 7 years and it worked flawlessly.
Suddenly the relay keeps clicking off and on while driving the truck. The batteries are 5 months old, I shore charge every night, the Blue Sea ACR 7622 is brand new. Why would that relay
keep clicking off and on like it's detecting a voltage drop and then it's fine.

I'm requesting help from someone who can troubleshoot my system now, or considering the Redarc BCDC 2420 as it may be more appropriate for the AGM's.
I'd compensate someone for their time to troubleshoot my current system or install the Redarc system.

I'm in Fort Collins, CO, so anyone from Denver to Fort Collins, if you would be intereted.
I run the BCDC24xx - it is for 24v systems only. You didn't mention you have that set up.

Confused on the age of the 7622. You say it's seven years old, then say it's brand new. At any rate, 7 years for an auto-switching relay is pretty good. Clicking thereafter could simply mean it's reach the end of its serviceable life. If it's brand new and clicking then it's either bad out of the box, or you have voltage flux (spikes/drops) that it's reading and reacting to.

I'm running dual batts up front as well, but use a dash-switched relay to bind for charging. Also have E & I monitoring which allows me to determine when to bind. Only a couple years old, but zero issues so far.

My 24xx is used for both converting 12v to 24v for the 24v bank in the rear, but also to eliminate the voltage drop from front to rear, which is significant over anything smaller than 1/0. But the BCDC allowed me to run 2ga front to back w/o concern for drop.

I'm in the springs and would be happy to look it over.
:cheers:
 
I run the BCDC24xx - it is for 24v systems only. You didn't mention you have that set up. I have a 12 volt system

Confused on the age of the 7622. You say it's seven years old, then say it's brand new. At any rate, 7 years for an auto-switching relay is pretty good. Clicking thereafter could simply mean it's reach the end of its serviceable life. If it's brand new and clicking then it's either bad out of the box, or you have voltage flux (spikes/drops) that it's reading and reacting to. The suspected problem 7622 is 7 years old, Blue Sea sent me a brand new on and still has same problems

I'm running dual batts up front as well, but use a dash-switched relay to bind for charging. Also have E & I monitoring which allows me to determine when to bind. Only a couple years old, but zero issues so far. I opted not to connect the manual connect in cab switch from the beginning. I do have the switch though. I'm using a CTEK bluetooth voltage / State of Charge meter that lets me know what the accessory battery voltage status is at any time.

My 24xx is used for both converting 12v to 24v for the 24v bank in the rear, but also to eliminate the voltage drop from front to rear, which is significant over anything smaller than 1/0. But the BCDC allowed me to run 2ga front to back w/o concern for drop. All of my battery cables are 1/O

I'm in the springs and would be happy to look it over. I having someone in Longmont look it over soon. If that doesn't work out I may hit you up. Thank you so much for the offer
 
I run the BCDC24xx - it is for 24v systems only. You didn't mention you have that set up. I have a 12 volt system
Ok, so you're looking at the BCDC12xx models from RedArc. Will say tho I don't think it's strictly necessary for engine room dual batt setup. The BlueSea unit should be fine.
Confused on the age of the 7622. You say it's seven years old, then say it's brand new. At any rate, 7 years for an auto-switching relay is pretty good. Clicking thereafter could simply mean it's reach the end of its serviceable life. If it's brand new and clicking then it's either bad out of the box, or you have voltage flux (spikes/drops) that it's reading and reacting to. The suspected problem 7622 is 7 years old, Blue Sea sent me a brand new on and still has same problems
Copy. So just need to find out why it's seeing that flux.
I'm in the springs and would be happy to look it over. I having someone in Longmont look it over soon. If that doesn't work out I may hit you up. Thank you so much for the offer
Sounds good.
:cheers:
 
What’s the voltage at the primary battery?
13.7 volts right now.
I shore charge both batteries every night, so I have fully charged batteries each morning.
 
Instead of going through all this troubleshooting, I'm highly contemplating just getting a Redarc Dual input 40 amp in vehicle DC battery charger.
That would resolve a few issues, #1 I would have a proper charger the AGM batteries, #2 I would get rid of the Blue Sea 7622 and it wouldn't try to equalize the batteries, #3 I could reduce my 0 awg cables down to 4 awg, #4 I would have a solar charger and I could get rid of my Renogy solar charger.
Going from the Bluesea to the Redarc is like going from carburetion to fuel injection.
Not saying any of your existing components are bad in terms of performance or quality, but RedArc is serious stuff for ridiculously extreme conditions.

I say go for it!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom