EDIC Relay Oil Pressure Timer Repair

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If changing the capacitor still does not give your motor enough time to get to normal oil pressure, then use the next capacitor up from that, so that would be 470uF. This will increase the delay by another few seconds. Thought I'd mention this now as it is bound to come up.
 
By the way I do not know if the delay time is the same across all relays (with a relay in good condition) or if production changes or mods were made to this through the years. After having repaired both of mine I got around 8-9 seconds on them, they were struggling to make 5 seconds. Some difference may also be expected due to component tolerances.
The resistors used seem to be Allan Bradley carbon composites which are/were good quality. However carbon composites are not as stable as modern carbon film and they can go high. So a fault like that could make the delay time to go up.
That's why I have made no mention of delay time.
 
rockcrawler said:
Yeah. Did it for my reference when I was looking into it a while ago. Cleaned them up a bit for posting.
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:beer: -- I've shamelessly copied it for myself now! :D
 
Cool. No reason for these controllers not to be kept going indefinitely, even the relays could be repaired.

I have done another small but important edit to the diag post.
Especially important if R1 has gone high.
 
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Henry James the 47th said:
Again rockcrawler, well done! This information will help out a lot of people - it seems like at least once a week someone has problems with a croaking Fuel control relay.
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Yeah that doesn't surprise me being electronic :lol: although it's much more reliable than today's stuff all things considered. Interesting about the diagnostic test you had in your 2H manual. The one in my manual consists of taking a couple of ohm readings which I found pretty useless. If you ever come across that test again post it up here, would like to see it.
 
Does any of this corallate with with engine not shutting off sometimes. I know that too is a common problem. When mine started doing that(not consistantly shutting of after you turned the key off), i replaced the altenater brushes(which definately needed replacing) and it fixed the problem. But occasionally in spurts, it still does it. Just curious if they're related.
 
Diesel42 said:
Does any of this corallate with with engine not shutting off sometimes. I know that too is a common problem. When mine started doing that(not consistantly shutting of after you turned the key off), i replaced the altenater brushes(which definately needed replacing) and it fixed the problem. But occasionally in spurts, it still does it. Just curious if they're related.
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As the relay controls the position of the EDIC motor, it could be related. Being that your problem is intermittent, I would check all connections first though.
 
rockcrawler said:
As the relay controls the position of the EDIC motor, it could be related. Being that your problem is intermittent, I would check all connections first though.
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x 2

But if "connections" aren't the problem - I think responsibility for engine-shutdown delay/refusal is more likely to lie within the electricals inside your "EDIC motor" than your "EDIC relay" Keith.

Edit: But I think I remember one person saying they cured this problem by simply freeing up the control rod - probably by lubricating the mini-balljoints in it!


:cheers:
 
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lostmarbles said:
x 2

But if "connections" aren't the problem - I think responsibility for engine-shutdown delay/refusal is more likely to lie within the electricals inside your "EDIC motor" than your "EDIC relay" Keith.


:cheers:
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Agree.

Other than the above about the only thing that could cause this if it was the EDIC relay is a problem with "Relay 2", dirty or burned top contact.
 
rockcrawler said:
As the relay controls the position of the EDIC motor, it could be related. Being that your problem is intermittent, I would check all connections first though.
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starting with your grounds .. it was happend when my alt wasen't in the proper amp range .. ( old V Reg Box )
 
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