Easy GX470 CV Axle Swap, no alignment (1 Viewer)

[8lifgr8]

This is probably old news to most of you, but hopefully it helps someone out. When I was up for this job and researching tips and articles, a lot of the DIY/writeups consisted of removing tie-rod end links, control arms ball joints, etc. Stuff that, in theory, would make the job easy, but also require ball joint pullers and a post installation alignment (easy on a lift in a shop, not so much on the trail or even in a garage for DIYer).

I did find one writeup which was really easy and I based my own installation from that article and filmed it for the community below.

For those who like writeups it's essentially this:

1)Remove skid plates
2) Remove tire
3) Pry off dust cover over axle nut with screw driver. Use pliers to press out cotter pin, take care if you are reusing the pin.
4) Remove 17mm sway bar end link from spindle. (52 Ft*lbs)
5) Loosen 35mm axle nut with impact gun (173 ft*lbs)
6) using castle nut to protect the threads, whack axle nut with mallet to loosen it from the hub
7) Remove 19mm nuts from the bottom of lower control arm (166 ft*lbs)
8) Swing hub out of the way to free outboard end of the axle
9) place bucket or tray under the inboard end of the CV to catch diff oil.
10) Using a crowbar or long screwdriver, hammer back of inboard CV axle repeatedly until circlip frees itself and axle can be removed

Installation
11) Grease inboard spindle and install with circlip opening facing up. Hand press as far as possible then using care not to damage the dust seal or boot, hammer the inboard end until it seats in the diff.
12) Grease outboard spindle and thread into hub
13) reinstall and torque 19mm bolts on lower control arm.
14) reinstall 17mm bolts on sway bar end link
15) Reinstall and torque 35mm castle nut. You may need to over-tighten slightly to line up the castle grooves to install the cotter pin.
16) reinstall cotter pin
17) install dust cover
18) add 75w90 diff oil to the front diff (55 torx, it's tight as hades....good luck. I had to kick the wrench to loosen it. It surprisingly took 600ml of gear oil to top off)
19) reinstall wheel
20) reinstall skid plates

Video of my installation (notice at first the brake caliper is removed....that was based off of another DIY video and is unnecessary on the GX. It actually makes it harder):

 

[HomersCanyonero]

This is probably old news to most of you, but hopefully it helps someone out. When I was up for this job and researching tips and articles, a lot of the DIY/writeups consisted of removing tie-rod end links, control arms ball joints, etc. Stuff that, in theory, would make the job easy, but also require ball joint pullers and a post installation alignment (easy on a lift in a shop, not so much on the trail or even in a garage for DIYer).

I did find one writeup which was really easy and I based my own installation from that article and filmed it for the community below.

For those who like writeups it's essentially this:

1)Remove skid plates
2) Remove tire
3) Pry off dust cover over axle nut with screw driver. Use pliers to press out cotter pin, take care if you are reusing the pin.
4) Remove 17mm sway bar end link from spindle. (52 Ft*lbs)
5) Loosen 35mm axle nut with impact gun (173 ft*lbs)
6) using castle nut to protect the threads, whack axle nut with mallet to loosen it from the hub
7) Remove 19mm nuts from the bottom of lower control arm (166 ft*lbs)
8) Swing hub out of the way to free outboard end of the axle
9) place bucket or tray under the inboard end of the CV to catch diff oil.
10) Using a crowbar or long screwdriver, hammer back of inboard CV axle repeatedly until circlip frees itself and axle can be removed

Installation
11) Grease inboard spindle and install with circlip opening facing up. Hand press as far as possible then using care not to damage the dust seal or boot, hammer the inboard end until it seats in the diff.
12) Grease outboard spindle and thread into hub
13) reinstall and torque 19mm bolts on lower control arm.
14) reinstall 17mm bolts on sway bar end link
15) Reinstall and torque 35mm castle nut. You may need to over-tighten slightly to line up the castle grooves to install the cotter pin.
16) reinstall cotter pin
17) install dust cover
18) add 75w90 diff oil to the front diff (55 torx, it's tight as hades....good luck. I had to kick the wrench to loosen it. It surprisingly took 600ml of gear oil to top off)
19) reinstall wheel
20) reinstall skid plates

Video of my installation (notice at first the brake caliper is removed....that was based off of another DIY video and is unnecessary on the GX. It actually makes it harder):

Thanks for taking the time to do an instructional video on how to change the cv axles.

Knowing how to work the cv axles and the tie rods (inner/outer) comes in handy if I ever mess them up on a trail run.

Cv boots can rip and tie rods can bend/break

 

[8lifgr8]

That's exactly what happened to me. I did a routine undercarriage check when I got to my campground in Colorado and noticed the axle grease and found the hairline tear on the inboard boot. Since I didn't have my toolkit with me and the axle was fine, I just "sent it" and off-roaded and drove all around the San Juans on a weeping boot.
I fixed it when I got home.

I realized I didn't have a 35mm socket. I had a 36mm for my Range Rover, the 100 series is massive (54mm) since they aren't sealed wheel bearings, and I had a bunch of English sizes for old Jeeps or whatever.
So I'd at least pick up a 35mm for your trail tool kit!

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Good point on the 35 mm socket and carrying new boots and clamps as spares.

I need to figure out how to download these videos to my phone so I can watch them on the trail when there’s no signal!

 

[HomersCanyonero]

I do carry this 10” German wrench from Knipex that opens up from 12mm to 52mm and locks in a preset position for easier use on a bolt.

I hope this knipex wrench comes in handy when I don’t have the correct socket in hand.

 

[8lifgr8]

I'll have to look into encoding the video into, say 720p (so the file size is smaller) and then creating a dummy gmail account and host it on Google Drive. The video was just shy of 2GB, that's a lot of space on a phone for a "just in case" moment.

Maybe that would help some folks out? Although the job on the trail would be a bit more difficult (that 35mm axle nut would be epically challenging if all you had was a 3/8" drive ratchet!) But I guess it's been done before and someone will have to do it again!

 

[HomersCanyonero]

I have Iphone 13 pro with 256 GB of storage. iPhones are the new high quality camera, camcorder, music player, Garmin map, tv, game console and laptop! It can do it all pretty much…except loosen that 35mm axle nut!

But in all seriousness, I do carry a 1/2 breaker bar and 1/2 torque ratchet with socket adapters. Just need that 35 mm socket.

 

[Rednexus]

I picked up the 35mm socket below and threw it into my GX's tool kit for this exact reason:
Amazon product ASIN B08DK48T68
A few other tips/suggestions:
1. Rebooting CV's is actually really easy and it's a good time to upgrade to high-angle boots if you are lifted. If you can replace the CV, you have the skills to reboot it. I've been running All-Pro boots with better luck than OEM-style thermoplastic boots that were provided on NAPA/Cardone reman axles. All four boots are basically the same cost as one reman or non-OEM new axle, so it's a better value too.
2. The real ticket for pulling the CV out of the front differential/axle tube is a slide hammer. It's sooo much easier and quicker than prying. Obvisouly, this is not something you can bring on the trail, but is good to have in the shop if you are replacing axles/boots on a routine basis (which will happen when wheeling a IFS Toyota).
Amazon product ASIN B0015DMNIS

 

[HomersCanyonero]

While I’m in there buying sockets for the cv axle, are there other socket sizes needed for the tie rods?

Rather than buy only a 35mm socket, I’m trying to see if it’s worth buying 4 or 5 piece set that includes a 29mm, 32mm, 35mm, 36mm…just don’t know if those fit the GX470.

 

[8lifgr8]

@Rednexus , are there any writeups on how to remove the tripod joint? I'm assuming it has to come off to reboot (assuming we are using a quality boot and not a split boot)? I'd like to reboot mine to use a trail spare, and could easily film it and add it to the OP so both jobs are in the first post of the thread.

 

[Rednexus]

While I’m in there buying sockets for the cv axle, are there other socket sizes needed for the tie rods?

Rather than buy only a 35mm socket, I’m trying to see if it’s worth buying 4 or 5 piece set that includes a 29mm, 32mm, 35mm, 36mm…just don’t know if those fit the GX470.

I think pretty much everything on the GX stops at 21 mm, outside of the axle fill plugs (24mm) and of course the axle nuts. I don't recall the OEM tie rod nut size, however, so I'd recommend checking that.

10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21, 24, and 35mm should have you covered for most things. On my GX I have lots of non-JIS bolts that are 13mm (what you'd find at a hardware store), so I carry at 13 mm as well.

 

[Rednexus]

@Rednexus , are there any writeups on how to remove the tripod joint? I'm assuming it has to come off to reboot (assuming we are using a quality boot and not a split boot)? I'd like to reboot mine to use a trail spare, and could easily film it and add it to the OP so both jobs are in the first post of the thread.

I watched a YouTube video before I tried mine. The tripod bearings are held on the shaft with a horseshoe washer, so I pull them off with a pair of these:
Amazon product ASIN B00209ETSS
It's overall really easy, just kind of messy. I did bend the crimping pliers that came with the All-Pro kit. Summit gave me a $10 refund and I purchased a much nicer set of Lisle pliers for next time.

 

[8lifgr8]

Hahah, Amen on the 13mm bolts. The Toyota's rusted out so I have a few differing bolts sizes on my skid plates. That's one reason I omitted that step in my video, my skids would confuse any GX owner. Two of mine sheared and I had to put a nutsert into the center of the front skid. That bolt doesn't even exist on an OEM spare. Don't forget a wrench/spanner for the tie-rod end too, makes the job easy. I can't remember the size, but it's probably a 17 or 19. It does seem standard.

I'll dig up the AA video and then add the rebooting process. I need to reboot the birfs on my 100 series axle too, but that seems a bit more involved than the GX tripod joints.

 

[8lifgr8]

I watched a YouTube video before I tried mine. The tripod bearings are held on the shaft with a horseshoe washer, so I pull them off with a pair of these:
Amazon product ASIN B00209ETSS
It's overall really easy, just kind of messy. I did bend the crimping pliers that came with the All-Pro kit. Summit gave me a $10 refund and I purchased a much nicer set of Lisle pliers for next time.

Does the 4Runner all-pro kit work with the GX? I figure the CVs are the same, but it wouldn't suprise me if Toyota put a smaller CV on 4.0L rigs?

 

[Rednexus]

They are exactly the same.