Review and install notes for the E&E Low Profile Rear Bumper. This thread summarized detail from this larger thread
I've had a couple smaller E&E Off Road (EE Off Road - https://www.ee-offroading.com/) bits and know @turbo8 produces high quality gear, but this is the first time I've gotten a larger piece of his kit, and boy, it does not disappoint. The fit and finish has a level of precision that I expect to find on a mechanical engine part let alone armor. Should have done this awhile ago instead of waiting for tupperwear bumper damage.
A chopped muffler is not required but since it exposes the muffler so much, with it becoming the lowest point, might as well. It's super easy and I'll add a section to this later.
Cut the front of the OEM AHC bracket off. Reference the large bottom hole here and cut just forward of it. I still had about 1/4" clearance to the E&E bracket where I located my cut (see 3rd pic below). Remove the two forward 12mm bolts, and loosen the rear bolt holding the bracket to the frame. I used a screwdriver to stand off the bracket so I could cut with an thin kerf angle grinder and not accidently score the frame. Or remove the bracket completely to cut.
Shift the whole bracket reward by 1/4". Remove the 3rd bolt at the rear of the bracket, and drill a new hole just forward of it, offset by almost the full hole diameter. As far forward while still keeping room for the bolt head against the flange. Use a good center punch and a small drill bit first to get a solid pilot, before drilling out to size.
Where I cut, there still still a good 1/4" of clearance to the new bracket.
Add new support for front of the OEM AHC bracket. Credit to @lx200inAR for the strategy and picture. I used a smaller I think 1"x1" 1/8" aluminum angle bracket which I missed getting a picture of. Drill through holes or tap the E&E bracket to hold the angle mount. Then drill through holes to AHC bracket and bolt together.
I've had a couple smaller E&E Off Road (EE Off Road - https://www.ee-offroading.com/) bits and know @turbo8 produces high quality gear, but this is the first time I've gotten a larger piece of his kit, and boy, it does not disappoint. The fit and finish has a level of precision that I expect to find on a mechanical engine part let alone armor. Should have done this awhile ago instead of waiting for tupperwear bumper damage.
Design
Again, wow. I might be making this stuff up but from an engineering perspective, the structural load path is well considered. For a slider bumper that's expected to take impacts, too much rigidity is not good and is how stuff breaks. While it's all very strong and robust, the load path passes through a longer distributed path to the frame, allowing key members to flex and absorb impact forces, resulting in more overall durability. Kudos on a well balanced stiff and robust design.
Weight
Im very particular to added weight and gear has to earn its way on as I tow a large and heavy 8k travel trailer. The bumper is quoted at 55lbs shipped but probably closer to 45lbs (can anyone confirm?) less all the packaging material. I gathered all the parts and bits I took off and cut off, including chopped rear muffler, all measured at 18lbs. For a net weight gain of 27lbs. Win.A chopped muffler is not required but since it exposes the muffler so much, with it becoming the lowest point, might as well. It's super easy and I'll add a section to this later.
Install
The bumper already comes with good instructions online. I'll focus on additional notes and details, particularly to the LX570. Don't be afraid of adapting to AHC as it's not much harder and straightforward.Cutting Tuperwear Bumper
Refer to page 5 of the instructions. @tincan45 recommends a great strategy to use a laser line level for an initial cutting line. Make a conservative cut, and also be sure to consider any body lift (I have a .75" BL).AHC
The AHC bracket holding the reservoir and pump on the passenger side interferes with the E&E brace but is straightforward to resolve. Will need to cut the the forward part of the bracket. Then move the whole assembly rearward by ~1/4" to make clearance for the pump (no milling necessary).Cut the front of the OEM AHC bracket off. Reference the large bottom hole here and cut just forward of it. I still had about 1/4" clearance to the E&E bracket where I located my cut (see 3rd pic below). Remove the two forward 12mm bolts, and loosen the rear bolt holding the bracket to the frame. I used a screwdriver to stand off the bracket so I could cut with an thin kerf angle grinder and not accidently score the frame. Or remove the bracket completely to cut.
Shift the whole bracket reward by 1/4". Remove the 3rd bolt at the rear of the bracket, and drill a new hole just forward of it, offset by almost the full hole diameter. As far forward while still keeping room for the bolt head against the flange. Use a good center punch and a small drill bit first to get a solid pilot, before drilling out to size.
Add new support for front of the OEM AHC bracket. Credit to @lx200inAR for the strategy and picture. I used a smaller I think 1"x1" 1/8" aluminum angle bracket which I missed getting a picture of. Drill through holes or tap the E&E bracket to hold the angle mount. Then drill through holes to AHC bracket and bolt together.
Supporting AHC Pump
An easy solution is to use a stainless steel cushion clamp. I should have checked before mounting but I believe it's a 1" clamp. In retrospect, I should have left it as a P style clamp using one hole instead but both strategies will work.
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