e brake for Knoobs (busted ferrule?)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

landcruiser3DP

landcruiser3DP

Joined
Apr 9, 2017
Threads
327
Messages
2,380
Location
tejas
let's talk e brakes!
1. is this ferrule on the right side supposed to be captured inside something? i'm starting to think i need to fully disassemble this to see if it goes into something or if something broke off in there?
2. what is this business about match marks in the FSM? i don't get it and i can't tell what the drawing even is showing.
3. when i adjust the adjuster mechanism do i get the hole in the rotor to be at the bottom and stick a chopstick through to turn it or something?
4. i took some pics of the cable connection from the front of the truck between the rear axles and i was wondering how it works. is there a name for it? right now it seems like it pulls only on the left side. so maybe the right is not hooked up but still it's an interesting connection.
5. how do you test e brakes? i guess you just keep the wheels off the ground and pull the brake and try to turn the wheel...?
6. i've got this crazy SHIN ETSU stuff. i bought HIVAC-G and then realized i wanted the GREASE for rubber bits. the HIVAC G is interesting stuff. i actually used it to grease metal brake caliper parts. can i use it to grease the e brake? or can i use good ZINC anti seize? i saw some cautions about using anti seize back here for some reason.


IMG_0503.png


IMG_0505.jpeg


IMG_0504.png


IMG_0458.jpeg
 
Last edited:
The cable is not hooked up on the one side where it's sticking straight out. How much meat is on your brake shoes?
I'm looking to fix mine now because e brake isn't doing its job. The cables seem to be working right though, a minor miracle. Apparently the bell cranks aren't seized up. I watched an Otramm video. He greased the hell out of the bellcranks and pivots with Napa ceramic brake lubricant.
Matchmarks: I don't know. Don't the discs have threaded holes in them for the purpose of removing them?
 
2. what is this business about match marks in the FSM? i don't get it and i can't tell what the drawing even is showing.
You make the match marks. with a sharpy or a paint pen. Its so the drum goes back over the same set of studs. Drums and hubs have a touch of rounout from the manufacturing processes. they are rotativly mated by testing them at various locations and measuring the disk "wobble", runout, with an indicator. The marks are to ensure the hat goes back on in the same orientation it was removed.

3. when i adjust the adjuster mechanism do i get the hole in the rotor to be at the bottom and stick a chopstick through to turn it or something?
Yes, you adjust it blind by feel. I use a small flat head screw driver to flick the teeth on the adjuster wheel.

5. how do you test e brakes? i guess you just keep the wheels off the ground and pull the brake and try to turn the wheel...?
Make sure the e-brake handle in the cab is down and the wheels are chocked and the t-case in in nutral. Run the wheel on the adjuster until you feel resistance. At the this point the hat (rotor) shouldn't have any radial movment because the e-brake is fully engaged because you just jammed it with the adjuster wheel. While attemting to shake, rotate, the hat fore and aft, loosen the adjuster wheel a tooth at a time until there is very light drag on the e-brake shoes. Light enough you can hear them drag, but there is no load. Do both sides.
Pull up handle on e-brake in cab, It should come up less then 11 clicks and there should be zero movment of the hat. If it comes up more than 11 clicks, adjust cable tension with the adjuster nuts in the e-brake handle.

I wouldn't use the vacuum grease on brakes, wrong aplication. It's awsome on o-rings though.
 
gents, i'm going to jump around here just because i am trying to button things up and i have caliper grease (like metal to metal) to settle on, and grease for caliper piston seals (Shin Etsu?!), and axles to reinstall and whatnot. also hub studs to order.
i guess i need to break down this RIGHT SIDE e brake but i don't understand something.
LEFT SIDE looks like it has a metal component. it looks like what is in the FSM at the blue arrow called the brake shoe lever? and it is connected to the ferrule at the end of the cable there?
but RIGHT SIDE my ferrule is waggling out in space and ALSO it looks like there is a sort of composite looking element that is in this space. like i don't even see a metal part here to connect to.
> so rhe first thing that would be helpful to know is are these components the same exact orientation meaning if i take the left side and move it to the right side is everything the same? and/or is it the same but mirrored so the cable doesn't pull from same side and terminate same side? or are there different parts on each side?(!)
sorry it's confusing right now.

IMG_0517.jpeg


IMG_0518.jpeg


IMG_0519.jpeg


IMG_0516.jpeg


IMG_0515.jpeg
 
Rusty spelled it out pretty accurately. I would reference BR-26/27 in the manual as the steps are spelled out on the adjust and bedding process. It also ensures the bellcrank is adjusted correctly.
 
Rusty Marlin said:
2. what is this business about match marks in the FSM? i don't get it and i can't tell what the drawing even is showing.
You make the match marks. with a sharpy or a paint pen. Its so the drum goes back over the same set of studs. Drums and hubs have a touch of rounout from the manufacturing processes. they are rotativly mated by testing them at various locations and measuring the disk "wobble", runout, with an indicator. The marks are to ensure the hat goes back on in the same orientation it was removed.

3. when i adjust the adjuster mechanism do i get the hole in the rotor to be at the bottom and stick a chopstick through to turn it or something?
Yes, you adjust it blind by feel. I use a small flat head screw driver to flick the teeth on the adjuster wheel.

5. how do you test e brakes? i guess you just keep the wheels off the ground and pull the brake and try to turn the wheel...?
Make sure the e-brake handle in the cab is down and the wheels are chocked and the t-case in in nutral. Run the wheel on the adjuster until you feel resistance. At the this point the hat (rotor) shouldn't have any radial movment because the e-brake is fully engaged because you just jammed it with the adjuster wheel. While attemting to shake, rotate, the hat fore and aft, loosen the adjuster wheel a tooth at a time until there is very light drag on the e-brake shoes. Light enough you can hear them drag, but there is no load. Do both sides.
Pull up handle on e-brake in cab, It should come up less then 11 clicks and there should be zero movment of the hat. If it comes up more than 11 clicks, adjust cable tension with the adjuster nuts in the e-brake handle.

I wouldn't use the vacuum grease on brakes, wrong aplication. It's awsome on o-rings though.
Click to expand...
that awesome. thanks a lot RM.
are e brakes symmetrical back here? like at why the exact same assemblies just kind of copied and rotated 180 degrees?
i think the cable on my RIGHT side is disconnected but i'm not seeing a metal part to connect it to. it looks like some kind of composite element is stuck in there. almost like someone shoved a brake page up in there(!) on the right side?
-
off topic
on piston seals - like forget metal to metal - can i use the Shin Etsu GREASE on the just the seals.
-
then on the metal to metal on calipers i have this HIVAC-G from Shin Etsu. i just wiped the buggers of ceramic grease because folks are saying it hardens. so i just put HIVAC G in there. i think its like super high temp stuff. anyway what do i out in there instead? what's the issue i guess that it drips and contaminates my brake pads? what about good old fashioned zinc based anti seize?(!)

IMG_0518.jpeg
 
Devils Paw 80 said:
The cable is not hooked up on the one side where it's sticking straight out. How much meat is on your brake shoes?
I'm looking to fix mine now because e brake isn't doing its job. The cables seem to be working right though, a minor miracle. Apparently the bell cranks aren't seized up. I watched an Otramm video. He greased the hell out of the bellcranks and pivots with Napa ceramic brake lubricant.
Matchmarks: I don't know. Don't the discs have threaded holes in them for the purpose of removing them?
Click to expand...
4-5mm i think.
what's the "bell crank exactly" please?

IMG_0150.jpeg


IMG_0148.jpeg


IMG_0149.jpeg


IMG_0147.jpeg
 
60 toy ota said:
Hey off topic, but how are you doing with the flooding? Hopefully you're away from the lower valley area.
Click to expand...
You got the news fast! Yeah, it looks to be VERY bad in the Mendenhall valley. I'm downtown at the top of a hill. Our primary natural disaster concern is landslides.
 
1722963649732.png


1722963794254.png


So a solid MAYBE> or just use the lithium based glycol grease as recomended.
 
The 80 series has a double leverage system the runs the drum brake.
We have a bell crank on the back side of the backing plate that increases the leverage of the pull applied to the cable that is then applied to the brake lever arm that inside the drum.
at the risk of causing absolute mass confusion, here is a simplified sketch.
1722966427141.png
 
Devils Paw 80 said:
You got the news fast! Yeah, it looks to be VERY bad in the Mendenhall valley. I'm downtown at the top of a hill. Our primary natural disaster concern is landslides.
Click to expand...
You must be around basin road? Yeah I joined the Juneau's hidden history page the summer I worked there, really loved and miss it
 
Rusty Marlin said:
View attachment 3695861

View attachment 3695869

So a solid MAYBE> or just use the lithium based glycol grease as recomended.
Click to expand...
hey! thanks a ton for this. i'm looking forward to studying your diagram this morning.
it sound like i can use either of the Shin Etsu greases on the piston seal? i guess there are multiple issues here in that A it gas to not melt in high temps B it has to tolerate brake fluid and C we don't want it contaminating the brakes pads and radically lowering their efficiency?
i'm going to try to order the toyota brake grease i guess at the dealer. i tried in ourisman last night and they don't ship it.
one thing that kind of is still hanging out there is that a "lithium based glycol grease" is kind of hard to parse or i mean to find. if i go to oriellys or wherever they have ceramic grease (don't use it in the seals like the FSM indicates because it says it's not for seals) but also supposedly ceramic hardens
so what product do i order? only thing i found other than toyota brake grease is Sil-Glyde. so it's like what else could i pick up locally or order online if it's not those two?
here's the toyota grease image from kernal. also their rubber grease which i think j font need since i have the Shin Etsu?

IMG_0712.jpeg


IMG_0425.jpeg
 
Rusty Marlin said:
The 80 series has a double leverage system the runs the drum brake.
We have a bell crank on the back side of the backing plate that increases the leverage of the pull applied to the cable that is then applied to the brake lever arm that inside the drum.
at the risk of causing absolute mass confusion, here is a simplified sketch.
View attachment 3695890
Click to expand...
hey. i want to follow this please.
"shoe strut" connects the two "brake shoes"?
or "shoes stuff connects one brake shoe and the "shoe lever" that is itself connected to the other shoe?
then there is a "bell crank" that is attached to a cable that goes to the e brake handle and that is also attached to a cable that is connected to the "drum lever"?
so there is a lever effect or whatever i call it based on the - well the geometry of the bell crank?
a. can you help me up here on what i am looking at? like where is the bell crank exactly?
b. is there a bell cancel on both sides?
c. i see the pull on the cable and there is a force A applied to the cable but not sure if it is or where this force is on the cable? or if it matters if it is showing befor or after that Y ferrule holder and spring connection (whatever that is)?
d. 3:2 is bell crank? so rhe lever is built in there and it applies 3xA to the drum lever is that it?
e. then you get 4x levee effect out of the drum lever because it is also a lever?
f. so rhe force applied to one brake shoe to - or from the circumference of both breaker shoes is 12x the force applied by the operator to the hand brake?
sorry slow going here but really interested in your drawing and understanding it...

IMG_0777.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

COS80
Stretched e-brake cable?
2
Replies
30
Views
3K
BTLSHP
BTLSHP
Jeeper
Source for center/high brake light clips?
Replies
2
Views
176
Jeeper
Jeeper
Hazz80
80 series brake troubles
Replies
5
Views
393
Malleus
Malleus
L
Part number for rear brake line?, 93 Land Cruiser
Replies
3
Views
707
LandCruiserGEO
L

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom