Dynamat anyone? (1 Viewer)

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In my other post I mentioned that the door panels have started to develop some creak and squeaks for my 2005, I was wondering if anyone has had experience with Dynamat sheets in the door panels for sound dampening? I didn't know it keeps interior cooler as well according to their website.
 
In my other post I mentioned that the door panels have started to develop some creak and squeaks for my 2005, I was wondering if anyone has had experience with Dynamat sheets in the door panels for sound dampening? I didn't know it keeps interior cooler as well according to their website.
I installed some Dynamat door panels in several of my vehicles. It will definitely help with noise. The old air conditioners didn't need to work as hard after installation. I was just introduced to some Kilmat that came with a rear door product. I put some down over the rear floor before adding a drawer unit. It sticks and seems to be a good product.
 
I used Dynamat on all four doors as well as the rear (third row) floor and sides / wheel wells. Made a noticeable difference (reduction) in road noise and panel resonance.
 
Sounds like a go, are they hard to install? If it's self adhesive, can you reposition it in case the first time it doesn't go in the correct position?
 
Peel and stick. It can be repositioned, but may quickly turn into a sticky situation. Best to measure twice and cut once.
 
Sounds like a go, are they hard to install? If it's self adhesive, can you reposition it in case the first time it doesn't go in the correct position?
It's not super-easy to work with, and I've used it for many years on multiple vehicles. You'll want gloves and a disposable razor, and once it's placed it can be moved slightly, but peeling it off to reuse/reposition it would probably be difficult.

That said, you don't need to cover every square inch of a door or body panel, just a percentage of it. The stuff has a really low resonant frequency.
 
I did my whole truck... doors, floor and pillars. Don’t do the roof, it will fall. The sun generates so much heat it will fall and stick to your sunroof glass and cause mucho repairs. Source: me. I paid to get a new sunroof cause the dynamat decided to stick to it and I decided to force close.
 
I found DynaMat easy to work with. Use cardboard to make a template for the doors then trace on the mat and cut. You can hang it on the door for placement without rolling it. Once you get it where you like and mark door trim fastener attachment points, roll it and do the trimming around the fastener holes. Time consuming but pretty simple at the end of the day. After all the research, I bought DynaMat Xtreme and am very happy with it (there are cheaper options but the reviews are much more mixed).
 
I did my whole truck... doors, floor and pillars. Don’t do the roof, it will fall. The sun generates so much heat it will fall and stick to your sunroof glass and cause mucho repairs. Source: me. I paid to get a new sunroof cause the dynamat decided to stick to it and I decided to force close.
When I decide to sound deaden above my headliner, I think I will go with some aircraft deadening material. I've had sound deadening material (not Dynamat) fall down from the inside of a door into the bottom that covered up the water vents.
 
Also, forgot to mention that I also used DynaLiner on top of the DynaMat. They have different functions - I'm no expert but my take is that DynaMat dampens vibration while DynaLiner deadens sound and helps with temperature in the vehicle. DynaLiner is, again, time consuming but simple. I used 1/4" thick version and the fit was pretty tight on the rear doors. I did not install on the front doors at the time due to time constraint but I think the 1/8" may be better for the front as the fit between trim and door is a bit closer. I can definitely tell a difference between front and rear doors with regard to sound deadening.
 
I had some noise coming from the front driver door. I lined it with off brand dynamat and its nice and quiet now. I'll do the other doors and tailgate when i replace my door lock actuators.
 
For those that have tackled this, in terms of just cutting road noise, does using deadener on the floorboards or does make the single biggest difference?
 
I believe I have read before that the doors makes the biggest difference, but don’t quote me since I haven’t completed this yet myself.
 
I wonder if anyone has used Dynamat on the inside of the front fenders? In going over the body looking for panels that transmit vibration, they appear to transmit more than any other panel.
 
When I decide to sound deaden above my headliner, I think I will go with some aircraft deadening material.

I think this is the right approach. Comparing 1/8" thick Super Sound Proof with Adhesive aircraft soundproofing material to 1/16" thick Dynamat Xtreme the aircraft material weights only 0.1 lb/SF while the Dynamat weighs 0.45 lb/SF. That's a pretty significant weight savings with a thicker material.

They even provide a free how-to guide for methods to successfully apply different materials in weight sensitive applications:
How To Soundproof Light Aircraft
 
That's a good resource squid! Their product would be more comparable to DynaLiner rather than DynaMat. No time to compare even pricing, much less specs, at the moment but here's DynaLiner

 
I did my floors, doors, tailgate & rear hatch area with Dynamat Extreme because I have a 3,600 watt SQ sound system installed.

I think the front doors made the biggest difference.

After the Dynamat was installed, I then started noticing all the plastic noises & they were fixed with felt pads.

Then I could hear metal noises & dry lubing the rear seats a few times took care of that noise.

Finally the window noise was the last noise area that I heard. I used Gummi Pledge, dry lube & silicone grease on the window rubber modelings.

Finally my 20 year old girl is the most quiet vehicle that I have ever owned!
 

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