drum brakes and handbrake adjustment? (1 Viewer)

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I installed fresh drum shoes replaced spring hardware and adjuster, even new drums and cylinders.
Am I correct by assuming that the new drums need to be adjusted quite snug , as in a bit of shoe drag/bind, to have the handbrake working?
I fiddled around for awhile and tried adjusting the shoes so the wheel spins free without any shoe drag, but the handbrake barely holds, certainly not on a hill.

Then, I readjusted so the shoes bind a bit when the handbrake is disengaged, wheels spin but not totally freely from the bearing. The handbrake works a treat. I figure the shoes shall wear that fraction in a bit of driving and wearing in.

Fiddly things. Anyone have a similar experience? Advice?
 
comforting. so far so good, bit of drag/bind at present, noticeable, but not too much a worry. Shall have another check in about 100km.

thanking you
 
Just make sure the drums aren't getting hot while driving. Check them next time you stop after a drive that hasn't needed too much braking.
They can be tricky. After years of trying I finally got my drum-in-disc handbrake working acceptably after I realised the drums were not round & replaced them.

Cheers
Clint
 
Thanks man. Not hot, only a bit of acceptable warmth. Shall crack open the drums after a little bit more driving and observe the wear. Brand new shiny round unrusted drums. Even installed the 'Hel' brake line upgrade, a better system I reckon.
Yes a fiddly setup.
 
If put together correctly you should find that a nice hill can help you adjust the rear handbrake.
Roll backwards and pull the brake handle numerous times until she feels good. You may have to fiddle with the foot brake or both together to find what works. Think the key is getting the arse end to kind of bounce between applications.
Just did this on my 75.
 
No pun intended, arse of the handbrake stick to bounce or troopy arse bounce?

I have pulled it 30 times on a 1st gear, very steep hill but she does roll on that one.

Wonder if I need to reassemble again, first time assemble for me, should of said at the start. The brakes feel good when stopping though.

Disc rotors are less fiddly and effective, but drum shoes can last a long time which is appealing. And that is what is there.

It was a Tora hardware kit, can tell not the best. What is the best brand kit? Amayama says toyota discontinued the kit.
The cylinders were bosch (probably taiwan bosch), they looked alright.

I avoid braking and drive like an old bird typically. If I see I need to be stopping in yonder I just slow down. Of course good brakes are necessary for emergency though.

Wonder if anyone has converted to discs in the rear with some sort of handbrake shoe like in later models? Although I have heard these are difficult to get right too.

Good thing about Melbourne lockdowns being stuck at home, is that I installed 500kg rear springs and front 2inch lift springs, adjusted lspv, rebuilt drum brakes (handbrake still perfecting), 'hel' brake lines, stedi led lights all round, heavy duty tie rod and relay rods. Quite a learning curve for a hack like me. Love my troopy. Turn the negative to a positive. More lockdowns to come for sure.

Going to do the 1000kg lspv test with pressure testers on front and back brakes after I have nailed the steering alignment. Got the last pressure kit (so they say) on amazon. Not bad bit of kit for around $100aud came the next day.

viva ih8mud mate!
maybe I should take pics, bit shy as there sure are some gurus here.?
 

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