Drivers Side Rear Wheel Rattle

[TheForger]

So I have begun to notice a very obvious rattle that is coming from my drivers side rear wheel area. No other signs other than a rattle (steering, braking/acceleration, etc. are all perfect). I just noticed it last night after turning my radio off and rolling my window down to enjoy the beautiful evening. It only occurs when going over bumps. I tried my best to take a one-handed, front-facing camera, wind in the mic video that turned out terrible, but you can still hear the metal on metal sound coming from the wheel. Has anyone experienced this or have any input as to what might be causing it? I am busy all weekend and don't have time to tear into the truck until next weekend. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[TxGuidedExpeditions]

Sounds like "rear" sway bar link's washers. It is a light metal for sure, if it is not that. The noise only happened with up and down movement at least from what I saw in your video.

Vibration noise in '99

 

[LEX]

It's a light tap so my guess is a line came unattached from what it supposed to be attached to.

 

[brianrride]

May want to check your upper shock as well...

 

[badlander]

Maybe E-Brake linkage or underneath spare tire winch tire hanger bracket dangling if your spare is absent?

 

[Murckman]

Mine just had the same issue. It was the emergency brake linkage (it was actually seized). Both sides actually rattled but I didn't figure out the passenger side had the same issue until the drivers side was fixed.
Good luck

 

[kz195688]

I had similar noise and had failed to torque down lower shock bolt. May also want to check sway bar link.

 

[TheForger]

@Murckman @badlander are right on the money. It appears the noise is being caused by drivers side rear ebrake assembly. Just a side note, it is not seized and still functions properly. Now I do know that at the base of that ebrake arm is a rubber boot. In order to tighten this back up so that it quits rattling, do I need to remove that boot? If not how do I go about tightening it? Would it be best to remove and replace/refurbish this entire ebrake assembly? I live in Arkansas so it doesn't see a lot of rust but AFAIK the ebrake has only been serviced once about 8k miles ago. Still works fine though. I only had enough time to look underneath the truck and jiggle a couple parts. Unfortunately, I won't have time to bust into it until thanksgiving weekend but if its just a simple bolt or two I might be able to run out and tighten them down.

 

[badlander]

The FSM details how to adjust the linkage properly. If you don't have a copy I can outline it for you.

 

[Murckman]

It was a several hour ordeal to fix, but this is how mine went down:
1) Remove back wheels
2) Remove rotor/ drum assembly
3) Adjust e brake shoes and grease behind
4) Make sure pivots points are moving freely (with wd 40 or similar)
5) Make sure retaining springs are tight (this was ultimately my biggest issue and likely what was making the most noise)
6) Adjust and tighten linkage if needed

It worked for me. No more rattle.
Good luck!

 

[TheForger]

The FSM details how to adjust the linkage properly. If you don't have a copy I can outline it for you.

Do you mind? it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[badlander]

1. ADJUST PARKING BRAKE SHOE CLEARANCE
(a) Disconnect the parking brake cable from the bellcrank.
(b) Remove the 2 bellcrank tension springs.
(c) Loosen the bellcrank adjusting bolt.
(d) Temporarily install the 3 hub nuts.
(e) Remove the hole plug.
(f) Turn the adjuster and expand the shoes until the disc
locks.
(g) Return the adjuster 8 notches.
(h) Install the hole plug.
2. ADJUST BELLCRANK
(a) Pull the bellcrank until all play in the interior linkage is taken
up.
(b) Screw in the bellcrank adjusting bolt to where it contacts
on the dust seal.
(c) Loosen it one turn, and lock it at that position with the lock
nut.
Torque: 5.4 N·m (55 kgf·cm, 48 in.·lbf)
(d) Install the 2 bellcrank tension springs.
(e) Connect the parking brake cable.
(f) Remove the 3 hub nuts.
3. SETTLING PARKING BRAKE SHOES AND DISC
(a) Drive the vehicle at about 50 km/h (31 mph) on a safe, level
and dry road.
(b) With the parking brake release button pushed in, pull on
the lever with 88 N (9 kgf, 19.8 lbf) of force.
(c) Drive the vehicle for about 400 meters (0.25 mile) in this
condition.
(d) Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 times.
4. RECHECK AND ADJUST PARKING BRAKE LEVER
TRAVEL (See page BR-14 )

PARKING BRAKE LEVER
ON-VEHICLE INSPECTION
1. CHECK PARKING BRAKE LEVER TRAVEL
Pull the parking brake lever all the way up, and count the number
of clicks.
Parking brake lever travel at 196 N (20 kgf, 44 lbf):
4 - 6 clicks
If incorrect, adjust the parking brake.
2. IF NECESSARY, ADJUST PARKING BRAKE
HINT:
Before adjusting the parking brake, make sure that the rear
brake shoe clearance has been adjusted. For shoe clearance
adjustment see page BR-38 .
(a) Loosen the lock nut and turn the turn buckle until the lever
travel is correct.
(b) Tighten the lock nut.
Torque: 5.4 N·m (55 kgf·cm, 48 in.·lbf)
3. CHECK BELLCRANK
(a) Check that the adjusting bolt on the bellcrank is not apart
from the backing plate.
(b) When the adjusting bolt on the bellcrank is apart from the
backing plate adjust the parking brake cable once again.