Drag Link End Torque Spec (4 Viewers)

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Apr 11, 2017
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Montreal
So I replaced the drag link end and torqued to 30 ft-lbs and it's really compressed the boot and shot past the cotter hole. What am I missing? Manual says these should be 55 to 79 lb-ft
Drag link end.jpg
 
That happened to me once and I had been given the wrong part for my jeep.
 
It came in a kit when I did all TREs. Everything else went in ok and this guy "fits". I guess I'll just put in a lockwasher and forget about it.
 
I don't see a torque specified for tie-rod ends in my my FSM. Which "manual" are you referring too? I think the procedure is to tighten until you're able to get the cotter pin in the hole.
 
If it’s a snug fit why couldn’t you just add a flat washer under the nut?
 
I did mine last year and I also dont recall any torque specs in the fsm...and I've got two of them. Just snug it down nice to where it lines up with the cotter pin....or split pin like we call em.
 
So I replaced the drag link end and torqued to 30 ft-lbs and it's really compressed the boot and shot past the cotter hole. What am I missing? Manual says these should be 55 to 79 lb-ftView attachment 1699308


how did u torque it down ?

Did u use a Pneumatic Torque Wrench
 
I bought a set of tre recently and had a similar issue. After much head scratching I realised they actually had different lengths of thread , each matching the application.
Drag link thread end was different to the steering knuckle end.
Once I realised that the cotter holes lined up spot on.

Just a thought
 
Thanks for the replies guys. Checked it against the old joint and they are identical. It came in a set of 555 brand TREs. They're all bagged and marked R or L. Except the drag link end. So I think I'm using the right one. I stuck a lockwasher in it and torqued to less than 30 lb-ft. I could have put less torque to line up cotter but it just didn't seem tight enough. I can live with it wearing out prematurely. It's so easy to replace. (Don't forget it's reverse threaded guys) :)
Drag washer.jpg
 

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