Double Flaring Tool Help (1 Viewer)

[landtoy80]

When double flaring the 4.75mm brake lines with an OEM brand Double Flaring Tool Metric, I am having problems with doing the first flare with the button. The button keeps leaning off center when compressing it.

I follow the directions on the outside of flaring tool box where it says to:
Place yoke over flaring var and using the swivel press adapter down into tubing, stopping just before adapter touches the flare bar. There is a pic showing to leave a gap between the adapter and flare bar. (I did this and there are no leaks so far when testing)

BUT inside the box it says to:
Turn yoke till adapter is flush with vice.

Its like two different directions for different tools. Outside directions call it a flaring bar and inside calls it a vice. I hate it when you are trying to learn something new and get conflicting instructions, even worse when its the manufacturer of the tool that is giving the conflicting instructions.

Which directions is correct?



When watching videos on using a flaring tool they all press the button all the way to the flaring bar. Do other flaring kits have you stop compressing the button just before you hit the flaring bar too or is it just with this brand of tool?

Note, the 4.75mm button is sloppy in the 4.75mm line. The 5mm button is even sloppy in the 4.75mm line too.

 

[scrowley]

Why do you need flare tool? Just go buy a couple short pre made pieces. Then no worries

 

[landtoy80]

I got laid off and money is an issue right now.

I already cut and flared the fitting on the lines. Now I am not sure if I made them correctly.

 

[scrowley]

pre made 12" is like $5. You can check the flare compared to one of them.

 

[scrowley]

post pic of your flare

 

[Photoman]

Pictures may help. This is not metric tube but might help by demonstrating the double flaring process.

1) set depth of tubing to step in button

2) important - deburr or ream inside tubing and lightly file outside tubing removing edge

3) spray a little lube on and start first part of double flare

4) results of first part of double flare

5) start second part of double flare using flaring tool without button

6) done

 

[landtoy80]

photoman, are you compressing the button flush to the flaring bar or stopping just short of touching the flaring bar?
This is what I have question about.

 

[Photoman]

down flush tight. It's possible your set up is different but this is the way I have done it and never had a problem.

My set is over 40 years old and I double checked and read the directions lol and it says to tighten it down till the button is flat to the flaring bar.

Bill

 

[landtoy80]

Here they are with almost going flush with the button. They have been seated in the tee fitting.

 

[landtoy80]

More.

 

[Photoman]

It's a little hard to tell from the pictures but your flare almost looks like a single flare. Be careful when flaring tubing with that coating on it that the tube does not slip down in flaring bar instead of flaring. It looks like it still should work though. After the first flare with the button does it look like number 4 above? In number 4 it can be seen the tubing is ready to be folded over i.e. double flare. Here is a picture of what I end up with; more rounded from folding over than yours. Might just be the tooling?

By the way, is that radiator still running in your cruiser?

Bill

 

[landtoy80]

<<<By the way, is that radiator still running in your cruiser?>>>>

I just got a new radiator a few months ago. Its the 4 radiator in about 400,000 mi. I replaced two of them, the PO replaced one.
Why do you ask? Am I forgetting something or u just asking?

 

[Photoman]

<<<By the way, is that radiator still running in your cruiser?>>>>

I just got a new radiator a few months ago. Its the 4 radiator in about 400,000 mi. I replaced two of them, the PO replaced one.
Why do you ask? Am I forgetting something or u just asking?

Unless I am misremembering I gave you a radiator many years ago from my 97 when I went to an aluminum radiator. You were in Maine or somewhere like that back then? I just wondered how long the radiator was making it. Disregard if the wrong person.

Bill

 

[maxamillion2345]

Why would you ever need or want to make things yourself?! Insane I tell you!

Those tools suck for double flares IMO. Get the OEM tool that does only 3/16 or 4.75 it works infinitely better. I flared every line on my rig with it as I ran all new lines. What an idiot I am huh?

OEM
24364

Under 25$

 

[landtoy80]

photoman, not me. All my rads have been new CSF brand, I live Colorado and was Wisconsin.

If a flare is bad but not leaking, will it fail right away or over time?

 

[Photoman]

My apologies for the bad memory and diverting your thread.

Just my opinion. I think a single flare is more prone to cracking. Sometimes they will crack when you first tighten them and drip. It may never fail but brake line you buy is double flared so it is done for a reason.

Bill

 

[landtoy80]

So all I have worry about is a dripping fitting? Brake light should come on before I run out of brakes, right?

Do the fitting need Teflon tape or other thread leak dope or do they install dry?

 

[Photoman]

I don't want to answer that first part.

No teflon tape or thread dope. You don't want an escaped piece of teflon tape in the brake system. The flare is supposed to make the seal. The threads just tighten the flare.

 

[landtoy80]

Why would you ever need or want to make things yourself?! Insane I tell you!

Those tools suck for double flares IMO. Get the OEM tool that does only 3/16 or 4.75 it works infinitely better. I flared every line on my rig with it as I ran all new lines. What an idiot I am huh?

OEM
24364

Under 25$

Watched a inline flaring tool video and that looks like the tool I need. Looks like there is no or not much of a chance for the button to tilt side ways with that tool.

 

[scrowley]

Drips/leak usually means it will suck air in the system over time.
X2 on nothing on threads. The flare is the seal. Not threads.