Double Checking on AHC removal

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T4RBoarder

T4RBoarder

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Helping a friend with removing the AHC (accumulators completely shot) on her LX and wanted to double check on the stuff we'll need in order to complete the job since the threads I read were kinda vague since most people are upgrading to OME systems. Going to go OEM unless there is something else that would be better for about the same price.

OEM torsion bars
4 new shocks (OEM or Bilstein)
New Rear Springs
Anything else we'll need?
Estimate on cost/hours of labor needed?
 
whatever is in the OME kit, you just need the OEM versions. Looks like you've got it right.


vvvvvv plus what he said vvvvvv
 
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On my 99, it also needed LC upper Shock Bushing Retainers, and matching Bushings. (If you have the LC Retainers you can use the Bushings that come with the Shocks.)

(I modified my LX upper Shock Retainers, and Bushings where necessary, to fit the LC shocks, using a 3/4" drill bit and drill press. I'd caution against using a hand drill for this, as the bit will bind in the Retainers and the result may cause injury, as I found out. The much more efficient solution would be to use LC Retainers and Bushings for LC Shocks.)

Can't tell you a good estimate of labor hours because I started out moving slow due to preexisting infirmities, and then got even slower after injuring my wrist using the hand drill on the Retainers, so considering the fractional Tinkerer speed and the Retainers mods my hours are way over nominal for the job. (I now have a cheap drill press on the bench. :)

You will need to remove the AHC fuse and relay in the engine room, and the AHC fuses in the drivers side cabin fuse block, to keep the AHC system from running and keep the dash lights off, after you disconnect the hydraulics.

Oh - and tell your friend to get ready for a stiff-riding vehicle.
 
should not be too stiff since she is going Land Cruiser rather than OME...

I likely will be putting on Ironman or OME next year on mine. Never thought the shock bushings or adapters was an issue. Is it not just a one for one swap of parts?
 
Brock said:
should not be too stiff since she is going Land Cruiser rather than OME...

I likely will be putting on Ironman or OME next year on mine. Never thought the shock bushings or adapters was an issue. Is it not just a one for one swap of parts?
Click to expand...

Stiffness is relative. The LX AHC evidently is set up to smooth things out more and jostle passengers less compared to stock LC; the LX rear especially used AHC to advantage to provide a more compliant suspension action when unloaded (when loaded the AHC will increase hydraulic pressure to auto-level, to a certain point). On the other hand, the non-AHC stock LC rear coils must be stiff enough to provide a certain load-carrying capacity beyond just the empty rear, and thus they have to be stiffer all the time because they are simple springs with constant k. So, what I found is that the stock LC setup is stiff, compared to LX. With LC springs/shocks, it kinda rides like my 2002 Accord now, albeit much higher in the cockpit and with more roll and mass.

The upper LX Shock Bushing Retainers have a flat keyed in the through-hole that mates to a flat ground in the Shock shaft. The LC Shocks on the other hand have no flat on the shaft, so they won't fit through the upper LX Retainers etc. Have to drill out the LX Retainers to allow them to fit over the LC Shock shaft. (Or better yet, get all LC hardware.)

I decided to drill out my LX hardware because it was a weekend and I didn't want to wait for Monday to order LC parts plus a couple more days to get them. That ended up causing a messed up wrist and a new drill press to appear in my life, plus at least another week delay in finishing. (A 3/4" bit will really BIND in something like a thick steel washer-like Retainer with keyed flats in the through-hole.)
 
Thanks. I just assumed from my test drives of LC and LX that LC was softer overall. Every single one seemed to float like a caddy when I drove it. The LX with AHC was first one that felt firm in turns and did not float unless I put it on the softest setting.

Do you have the part numbers for the LC Hardware? I might preorder as I can see myself forgetting this part when I decide to rip out the AHC in near future. :D :D
 
Wouldn't the OME stuff come with everything you need in terms of bushings and washers and...whatever?
 
1loudLX said:
Wouldn't the OME stuff come with everything you need in terms of bushings and washers and...whatever?
Click to expand...

I would assume so.

Thanks guys for all the input, I'm pretty sure she'll be ok with whatever once I convince her since she was just going to leave everything the way it is for a couple years until she can afford something different but the system is done and provides nearly no dampening going over bumps and it's been this way for months and I don't want her to start ruining stuff.

I'm still trying to get her completely on board with this but she is leery since it's different than what is in there now but Lexus quoted her $4500 to replace everything and she is learning towards that instead of listening to me. I can't even get her to comprehend it's not air ride either.
 
Brock said:
Thanks. I just assumed from my test drives of LC and LX that LC was softer overall. Every single one seemed to float like a caddy when I drove it. The LX with AHC was first one that felt firm in turns and did not float unless I put it on the softest setting.

Do you have the part numbers for the LC Hardware? I might preorder as I can see myself forgetting this part when I decide to rip out the AHC in near future. :D :D
Click to expand...

If the LX felt firmer than the LCs unless LX was on softest setting then maybe you were driving an LX with nitrogen accumulators nearly depleted.

My front accumulators were nearing depletion I think, but the rears may have been ok. In any case, the vehicle with all stock LC springs/tbars/shocks now rides much firmer than the mid-setting on the LX AHC did.

Maybe the tall version stock LC coils I picked are stiffer than the shorter versions? Dunno. I'm starting to get used to it, it is tolerable. (But no more falling asleep on the headrest going down the road, that's for sure.)
 
tink, you should drive my LX...I've got the ome sport firms, ome tbars and slee's HD rear springs. It's a truck.
 
I asked in another thread that died so ill revive this one. How hard (cmpared to something else and/or the infallible banana rating system) is it to remove the ahc system from the LX?

Or how much should it cost at a cruiser mechanic? The land cruiser mechanic i see in Dallas said he would do it but hasnt done it before. He recommended trying to find a TLC to trade for instead though for resale purposes. If I sold it I would do that here if I removed AHC.

I want all these pipes running around my engine bay (2nd battery) and under the truck (mud magnets) GONE!
 
For an OME conversion, here's what I was quoted from a reputable shop that has done the conversion for numerous mudders:
Cost of the OME kit at ~750
6 hours labor to remove AHC + 5 hours to install the new suspension totalling ~1k for labor.
= $1750 total

I'm sure you'll find higher and lower but that should be representative of the full shebang (never found out if alignment was included though).

Also, for interest sake I asked them if they would just do the install and not remove AHC (in case I had misgivings or wanted to save the labor and do that myself) and they said they would do that too = ~500 savings bringing total cost down to ~1250 from a shop that's done it before and knows what they're doing.
 
Check with Iron Pig Offroad - that's the price they gave me for the OME kit when they broke out the cost. It could have been a mistake or they give a discount on the part when they do the conversion, or maybe it doesn't include the diff drop.

I don't see it listed under LC100s on their site but check with them (http://www.ironpigoffroad.com//index.php?main_page=index&cPath=11_91)
 
If thats their price ill def call them up.

Anybody know how hard it is to remove the ahc yourself? Surely someone here has done it
 
I am going to find out...I plan on draining fluids from it first....then getting cutting wheel to cut the hard lines up in pieces to make it easy to remove....unbolt and remove actuators....remove resevoir...remove pump.....then remove shocks and springs and reinstall new shocks and springs.

It is about 3-4 hours to install OME on FJC...and that includes compressing struts in front springs one at a time. I cant see it taking 5 hours to install the lift on a 100 series unless the torsion bar setup is harder and more laborious than the front coils and struts on FJC.

If you dont get a solid answer...I should know in March when I do mine. :)
 
Wish you lived closer and we could them at the same time.
Is it necessary to cut the metal hard lines to remove it? I would think some of the AHC system would be worth something and possibly more if it were whole. Mine works great and has been maintained well just want OME heavy with n74L or possibly fox.

Also i read the rear sway bar is different on ahc vehicles and needs to be replaced with a non ahc sway bar.

Ps brock, your dirty diva build was the first thing i saw on mud. "hey man you gotta try some of this cruiser s***, its the best man" and then the real addiction began even though id been a casual cruiser for a long time. My bank account thanks you...
 
Id really appreciate some detailed pics and a write up of the removal if youd be willing. I cant believe nobdy has done one.
 
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