Don't want to HAVE to replace starter/contacts...what do you think?

[dnp]

OK. 99 LX wouldn't crank this morning, so I need to figure out what's going on.

The weather turned cold down here last week, for the first time this year, and on a couple of mornings last week, the LX's starter sounded a little slow in cranking. However, it went ahead and cranked. During the day, when the engine was warm, it started in its normal quick fashion......Well, last night, after doing a little last-minute shopping, I got in it to leave a store, and it turned over so slowly that, though I was convinced it wouldn't crank, it ultimately did.......This morning, nothing! All accessories seem to be bright and strong, including the headlamps, but it won't turn over. I hear a click when I turn the key, but no cranking occurs. I cleaned the battery connections, but still nothing. I was in a hurry, and didn't have time to check other conditions on the battery.

My first inclination, obviously, would be to assume it's just the battery (it's an 84 month Lexus-brand battery, so I am assuming it's original to this 99 year model car - and with that much (assumed) age, it would have to be near/at its end) However, with all of the posts I've read about starter contacts going bad, I was wondering if any of you see any symptoms that would lead you to believe it would be something other than the battery? I certainly don't want to HAVE to relace the contacts/starter if I don't have to, but I also don't want to lose confidence in the starting ability of this car..............do any of you have any suggestions/comments based on my description?

Thanks,

dnp

 

[ryanjl]

Battery.

Starter contacts going bad doesn't happen gradually like you described, it's a clunk and nothing all of a sudden.

If you don't want to spend money before you are certain, hook up a battery from one of your other rides.

 

[dnp]

Shocker,

Thanks for the comment. Between the time I posted my original question and now, I used jumper cables to hook up another battery (not in a running car) to my LX, and nothing. No noticeable change......I believe I had good connections, but again, I was in a hurry.

If the LX's battery was simply dead, wouldn't it have turned over with another battery connected?

 

[Mark SR.]

Starter

dnp,
My Dad's '99 LC had same problems you describe 6 months ago. He replaced original battery and same thing started to happen shortly thereafter. He assumed the battery was 5-6 yrs old so very well might be bad. We ended up pulling the starter and having it rebuilt. This was initially an intimidating task but not as hard as we thought. This site has great info for the DIYer if you want to save some $$.
You say you have an 80 to get rid of? Let me know some details.
Good luck,
Mark

 

[ryanjl]

The connection in the jumper cables may not allow enough juice to transfer for an outright 'start'.

Normally you let the 'jumping' car run for a while, in attempt to get a little juice to charge the battery on the dead car.

If the battery is completely kaput, though, it probably won't work.

 

[Jukelemon]

A good battery will jump a bad battery i.e. a completely bad battery will have 0 effect on a perfectly good battery. You really need to take the battery to a parts house to test. I do not think that it is a coincidence that it turns cold and then you have 0 juice. Actually, it happened to me on a 40 last night. Two nights ago it was 5 degrees out. 40 would not turn over. Last night it is 35 and wham starts right up. Cold is a battery killer and only very good or new batteries can take the change in temp.

Regardless, take the battery to a shop. How do you know the other battery was good?

 

[Kaderabek]

My dual battery 80 wouldn't start in cold weather two weeks ago. Same symptoms you describe. Jumped it off the 100, took it to my shop to see if the alternator was bad. Turned out the red top was completely dead. Replaced it, no problem. Last Friday, very cold here, intern's car wouldn't start. Jumped it off my 80, wouldn't start. Click, click, click. Took the battery to my shop, completely dead. So in my opinion (and experience) a good battery can't always start a completely bad battery, especially in cold weather.

TJK

 

[hank14]

That sounds like the battery to me as well. When my starter contacts were going out, it would take several turns of the key, and it would eventually "catch". No clicking sound like with a solenoid. I had the battery tested initially, and it was fine. My battery is about 2 years old, OEM.

 

[Jukelemon]

Let me clarify Todd. A well known good battery will not be affected by a DISCHARGED battery. A well known good battery will be affected by a SHORTED battery but the effects are directly related to loss of cells in the bad battery i.e. capacity over time.

 

[Kaderabek]

Yeah, I understand the first part. Intern's dead battery didn't affect my good battery at all.

Understand the second part too.

Go get a battery.

TJK

 

[ff347]

A dead short battery can show 12volt in the vehicle and even on hook up on a tester, the load test is the key. Had the same thing on my previous vehicle, thought it was a starter, replaced that & the ignition module and had i listened to some good advice would have saved myself a tow bill all for a 2yr old battery. (all lights, radio and all worked when the vehicle would not crank) First line of business is get a different (new) battery in there because no jump or charge is going to help, mine died the exact same way.

 

[NMuzj100]

I would recommend just goin tho the auto parts store and having the electrical system checked. In ten minutes for free they can tell whether the battery is good and confirm that the alternator ect.... are also good. Once you have a electrical problem the various parts work against each other and you don't want to just throw a new battery in a broken system. (been there, done that)

 

[dnp]

Thanks for all of the comments thus far..............the only problem for me right now (haven't been able to look at/work on the situation because I'm at work) is that I can't get it cranked to take it to anyone.

Enough of you suspect that the battery is the problem, so out of an abundance of caution (don't know how old the offending battery is), I'm just going to go and get a new one......DO any of you have a "favorite" battery? I looked at Optima's web site and they didn't have an application for the 99 LX........Consumer Reports has given Wal-Mart's batteries high marks for some time, but others like Interstate, etc.......

Any recommendations?

dnp

 

[tabraha]

Def just go to an Autozone or something like that. I had the same sporadic symptoms, thought it was the contacts but the dude at the Zone checked and my Batt had a weak cell. Changed it out and haven't had a hint of trouble. Like stated above; only 10 minutes of your time and FREE! That's my kind of process of elimination.

Tad

 

[tabraha]

BTW, if I thought I still had the original battery in my 99 I'd change it anyways for peace of mind!

 

[dnp]

Any thoughts on what battery I should consider?

I always like to research items like this before buying; however, since I need to make a move, I thought I'd ask those of you in the know what you'd recommend.

Thanks,

dnp

 

[NMuzj100]

Consumer Reports - Nov 04 battery tests
Over several battery sizes Sears Diehard batteries ( especially Weatherhandler and SUV,Truck and Van ) were in the top performers- So were Advance Autocrafts and Interstate Megatrons - Walmart Everstarts were middle/bottom of the road. No brand seemed tops in all the size catagories.

What is the group size for a Crusier Battery?

Maybe consider going OEM again ( first one lasted 5 years). I just had the original battery in my 98 tested with the idea of replacing it with a Optima but the darned thing was still strong after 6 years and didn't need to be replaced.

If you put a Walmart Battery in your truck I heard Lexus might come and repossess all the pimpdaddy gold ornaments off the truck.

 

[DMX84]

My money would go on Optima. I have used them in my last 4 vehicles. It’s worth the money IMO. The sealed deign means no leaks off gassing or battery terminal corrosion.
I had a optima in my FJ62 and It barley had a wet spot around one of the posts, (looked like a drop oil after a few days, small oily film with some dirt sticking to it) they just pulled it out and gave me a new one. I never had any problems after that. I swear there was nothing wrong with that battery and probably could have gone a long time like that.
When my battery starts to go in my 100, I’ll figure a way to put one in it.
Dean

 

[dnp]

Well, after all of that, it appears to be the &^$%#$% starter contacts. I put in a new battery and CLICK! Just like many of you have posted in the past, I tried to crank the engine several times in a row, and eventually, it started. When I turned it off and tried again, the same thing happened. Just a dead-sounding click everytime I turned the key, and after a few tries, the engine cranked. A couple of times, the starter even sounded like it turned the engine over about a quarter turn, then stopped. Then another few tries and it cranked fine...........Does everyone agree that the contacts are the culprit?

I know many of you have replaced the contacts, and while that sounds enticing from a financial standpoint, wouldn't the better part of wisdom be to replace the entire starter with a new unit? Granted, if it were as easy as replacing the starter on a small block Chevrolet, I'd say give the contact procedure a try. On the other hand, with a multi-hour task looking me in the place, it seems as if replacing the whole unit may be a wiser, though more expensive, plan of action.......what do you think?

dnp

 

[tabraha]

Honestly I'd just get a new unit too. But that's because I don't have the time or patience to DIY for the contacts. On the bright side, at least you've got a new battery!