thought i would post up comments on how to remove the compressor since i found zero info here other than a suggestion to disconnect the oil filler tube i don't see the benefit of doing.
so first off this job sort of sucks. the compressor is in an unbelievably tight and inaccessible spot. do not try this unless you have done some challenging stuff.
also, before you do this job get your ac system evacuated by a shop. this cost me $30.
#1 the fsm tells you to remove the driver's axle to remove the compressor. i followed the manual but i am not sure it is necessary. if you can undo the rear mounting bolt on the compressor you do not need to pull the axle. access is tight but i can see it being undone, especially if you have a long 3/8" breaker bar (you need a short 14 mm socket attached directly to a breaker bar/socket wrench to get at this bolt). do this step first and save yourself 2 hours if you can pull it off.
#2 the lower front mounting bolt is 14mm and has a "B" printed on it, and is right beside two other bolts so make sure you get the right one. the bolt is nearly invisible, but is visible and accessible with a 36" 3/8" extension bar threaded through the top left of driver's side frame hole where the steering rack arm comes out if you tuck the extension bar between two steel lines. this will work and you can reach the bolt with your hand to touch the bolt and guide the socket from the front of the truck above the oil filter to help thread it provided you are spotting through the side frame hole for the steering.
i am not sure if you may have to drop the tie rod to do this since i did to pull it to get the axle off because my abs sensor is stuck. assuming you do, that is still way better than pulling the axle.
#3 the fsm does not clarify how to physically remove the compressor. it sure as hell does not come out through the gap created when you pull the axle unless you also pull the oil filler tube and even then i doubt it. it might come out the bottom front if you remove the oil filter, but i (eventually) got the compressor out pretty easily by undoing the fan clutch at the flange and pushing the fan over to the passenger side inside the shroud and then disconnecting the air bellows to the throttle body. then i lifted out the compressor in the large gap between motor and radiator to the passenger side of the upper rad hose without incident.
#4 be careful of the harness bracket on the replacement. i got a new denso compressor from rockauto, and the bracket on the new compressor pointed the harness the wrong way. it was a bugger to bend it to fit after the compressor was installed so pay attention to this before you install when it is easy to just unclip the harness from the bracket.
#5 after plenty of checking, i am comfortable using pharmacy mineral oil on the o rings. i could not source ac grade mineral oil locally so if you are a stickler, buy this well in advance.
overall i really really hated this job, but if i had not wasted time pulling the axle it would have been infinitely easier and i would also still have a working abs sensor. hopefully this saves someone the trouble.
so first off this job sort of sucks. the compressor is in an unbelievably tight and inaccessible spot. do not try this unless you have done some challenging stuff.
also, before you do this job get your ac system evacuated by a shop. this cost me $30.
#1 the fsm tells you to remove the driver's axle to remove the compressor. i followed the manual but i am not sure it is necessary. if you can undo the rear mounting bolt on the compressor you do not need to pull the axle. access is tight but i can see it being undone, especially if you have a long 3/8" breaker bar (you need a short 14 mm socket attached directly to a breaker bar/socket wrench to get at this bolt). do this step first and save yourself 2 hours if you can pull it off.
#2 the lower front mounting bolt is 14mm and has a "B" printed on it, and is right beside two other bolts so make sure you get the right one. the bolt is nearly invisible, but is visible and accessible with a 36" 3/8" extension bar threaded through the top left of driver's side frame hole where the steering rack arm comes out if you tuck the extension bar between two steel lines. this will work and you can reach the bolt with your hand to touch the bolt and guide the socket from the front of the truck above the oil filter to help thread it provided you are spotting through the side frame hole for the steering.
i am not sure if you may have to drop the tie rod to do this since i did to pull it to get the axle off because my abs sensor is stuck. assuming you do, that is still way better than pulling the axle.
#3 the fsm does not clarify how to physically remove the compressor. it sure as hell does not come out through the gap created when you pull the axle unless you also pull the oil filler tube and even then i doubt it. it might come out the bottom front if you remove the oil filter, but i (eventually) got the compressor out pretty easily by undoing the fan clutch at the flange and pushing the fan over to the passenger side inside the shroud and then disconnecting the air bellows to the throttle body. then i lifted out the compressor in the large gap between motor and radiator to the passenger side of the upper rad hose without incident.
#4 be careful of the harness bracket on the replacement. i got a new denso compressor from rockauto, and the bracket on the new compressor pointed the harness the wrong way. it was a bugger to bend it to fit after the compressor was installed so pay attention to this before you install when it is easy to just unclip the harness from the bracket.
#5 after plenty of checking, i am comfortable using pharmacy mineral oil on the o rings. i could not source ac grade mineral oil locally so if you are a stickler, buy this well in advance.
overall i really really hated this job, but if i had not wasted time pulling the axle it would have been infinitely easier and i would also still have a working abs sensor. hopefully this saves someone the trouble.
