Does anyone else have a hose on the bottom of the HAC? (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Feb 9, 2008
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165
Location
Orange, Ca, USA
While chasing around the smog gremlin that is preventing my 60 from passing Cali. emissions, I noticed a hose that was dangling from the HAC and resting on the frame. It's about 5/16 to 3/8 ID and is pulling enough vacuum at idle to stick to my finger and support it's own weight (approximately 4.56987 in.). There is no hose comming from the bottom of the HAC on any diagrams in the emissions FSM and it seems weird that it wouldn't be connected to anything. When you plug it it definitely effect the engine's manners at idle. So I'm confused, any help would be appreciated.
 
If the HAC vent hose is pulling hard vacuum, then the HAC valve is likely bad. Could also be a problem w/ HAC check valve.

In normal op, it is a very minor vac leak, not enough to noticeably effect idle quality.

Follow test procedure on pg.3-31 of emissions FSM.
 
So that hose is supposed to be dangling (unattached to anything on one end)?

I think the egr system needs a rebuild anyways, I'm failing smog because of high HC. I plan on running through the emissions system tonight and retesting (for the forth time) the smog tomorrow.
 
So that hose is supposed to be dangling (unattached to anything on one end)?

I think the egr system needs a rebuild anyways, I'm failing smog because of high HC. I plan on running through the emissions system tonight and retesting (for the forth time) the smog tomorrow.

Yes, the HAC vent hose is open to atmosphere. It is often fallen off & missing.

High HC is a mixture/spark/cat problem.

EGR is to reduce NOx gas.
 
High HC is a mixture/spark/cat problem.

EGR is to reduce NOx gas.

I know, but the cat is new, the plugs where a pretty ashen brown. I tried passing with unleaded, super, 4 degrees advanced, 7 degrees advanced... Any other ideas? The HC is high and all the other readings are low (about half the average). Cylinder pressures are all between 120 and 140 too. So, I've replaced the plugs, wires, rotor, cap. And before I spent another 60 bucks to try to pass again I figured I'd go through the emissions too. I'm hoping to avoid rebuilding/replacing the carb but I'm running out of options.
 
Have you used seafoam on the engine? I would let it drink some throught the PCV valve vacuum hose and make sure you have a good vacuum. Have you changed the PCV valve? The plug wires on correctly and not mixed up between cylinders? Post up your numbers please. You are failing HC at low and high speed? You get the vacuum lines on right on the distributor and have you tested the vacuum advance is working on it? You can pull a vacuum with a hand pump both diaphrams on the distributor and watch the timing at the same time and see if it moves.
 
I know, but the cat is new, the plugs where a pretty ashen brown. I tried passing with unleaded, super, 4 degrees advanced, 7 degrees advanced... Any other ideas? The HC is high and all the other readings are low (about half the average). Cylinder pressures are all between 120 and 140 too. So, I've replaced the plugs, wires, rotor, cap. And before I spent another 60 bucks to try to pass again I figured I'd go through the emissions too. I'm hoping to avoid rebuilding/replacing the carb but I'm running out of options.
The mixture is lean.
Fix the vacuum leaks. (Leaky HAC system, manifold gasket, aftermarket PCV valve, cracked hoses...)
 
I'm with Jim but; how does the truck run? Good, decent power, milage etc?
 
It runs good? I've never owned a Fj60 or any toyota for that matter so I'm judging power and mileage according to what I've read on this site. It's slow and pretty gutless, does that sound about right? It idles well, it definitely doesn't have a plug wire misrouted, the cat is new and, considering the other emission numbers are all way low, I believe the cat and smog pump to be working well. I was told that if it were running rich the other numbers would be off.
 
So I went through the emissions manual and checked the HAC, Egr, replaced worn/loose/cracked hoses, new cap, new rotor, new plugs, timing set at 6*. Anything I'm missing before I try the SMOG test again this afternoon?

PS: It does seem like the truck has a bit more power after the ignition tune-up.
 
I remember being told that changing the oil right before helps as well as changing the Air Filter. It can't hurt! Good luck. I'll be in your shoes real soon here.
 
Changing the oil doesn't make sense but like you said it doesn't hurt either. The air filter is new, thanks for the tip.
 
Changing the oil doesn't make sense but like you said it doesn't hurt either. The air filter is new, thanks for the tip.

It has something to do with the PCV system..I'm assuming that newer oil isn' dirty and that's how it helps give you better results.

:meh:
 
:meh:Huh:meh:
 
PASSED

It only took 5 tries and I kinda cheated but it buys me two years to do a diesel conversion and flip off the man.
 
What did the trick ??
 
I can't say on a public forum, but... I hear that if you plugged both vacuum advance hoses to the distributor by inserting finishing nails and then reconnected them (that way you can pass visual) you could possibly pass with the same conditions as I had, but just barely.
 
Hehehehehee.....

Now, theoretically speaking, of course, should both those lines miraculously become blocked - the Cruiser equivalent of seeing Jesus in burnt toast - what is that doing, beyond the obvious of no vacuum advance? (Just so I understand it)
 
Honestly, I don't know. I was told that there was once a smog technician that felt bad for a guy who had already paid for and failed four previous attempts at the smog test. He had offered a few other ideas that didn't work and that might have been part of the cause for the generous suggestion.

The blocked hoses don't improve the performance of the vehicle and would need to be removed ASAP.
 
Very generous technician.

Thank you.
 

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