Do I just need to buy shocks?

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Greenbean

B.S. Goodwrench
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Sep 9, 2012
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Location
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SO I noticed yesterday while driving around 50 mph, I was on a road with multiple man hole covers.

The ones I was tracking over with the drivers side wheels were giving me a nice solid "thud" "thud" when I ran over them. Controlled and not unsettling the rig at all.

Now the right side, completely different feeling! They were sending vibration through the rig and upsetting the whole chassis. Like a "boing" but not heard just felt. It really unsettled the truck, lasted just a moment.
Then back to normal until you hit the nest one.

All tire pressure is fine. I have 275/70/R16 KO tires on and the alignment was completed just two weeks ago. Now it drives smooth as you expect all the way to 80, just when hitting surface abnormalities on the right side does she come unsettled.

Is one of my shocks dead? if so I'll order a new set of front and rear.

The last record I have of the OEM shocks being replaced was about 15K ago but almost two years though. None on my first glance looks wet or "leaking" is that helps.

I'll be jacking her up tomorrow and getting under there with a rubber hammer to see what if anything else I can find.



If anything comes to mind please let me know.

Thanks MUD,
GB
 
15k sounds premature for OEM shocks. I'd get under there, inspect your right sway bar end link, ball joints, etc. If nothing sticks out, swap the shocks to see if your issue moves to the left side.
 
I think if it was shocks your car would feel like its floating up/down. It would be really noticeable, it would take a while for it to settle down as the one good shock is taking the weight for the failed one. Kinda hard for me to describe it. It would just take a long time for it to stop bouncing.

Had a similar experience and PS shock was just gone, leaking. Push down and DS just kept bouncing...
 
10-4,

Hmm...

I replaced F & R sway bar rubber bits with new OEM bits a few months back.

Curious now what I may find when I scope it out tomorrow.
 
Holy Smokes!

I just did a quick "scientific" bounce test and the right front shock is toast! All others seems ok but I'd rather do a set of four new.

I'll try and get a video tomorrow, wow it bounces like crazy and takes 5-6 rebounds to stop!

So now that I know I'll be ordering four new OEM shocks, I have read a 22mm type GearWrench works wonders.

Can anyone confirm that for me?
 
Holy Smokes!

I just did a quick "scientific" bounce test and the right front shock is toast! All others seems ok but I'd rather do a set of four new.

I'll try and get a video tomorrow, wow it bounces like crazy and takes 5-6 rebounds to stop!

So now that I know I'll be ordering four new OEM shocks, I have read a 22mm type GearWrench works wonders.

Can anyone confirm that for me?

Yes. 22mm flex-head gear wrench will save you a ton of time and cuss words!
GearWrench 9922 22mm Flex-Head Combination Ratcheting Wrench - - Amazon.com
 
Thanks boss,

You rock and score a win with the link posted as well!
 
Even with that wrench, and an extension, I had to cut one of the shocks off. But I would still get the wrench, it made install easier to. Cutting it off was easy, and didn't hurt anything except the shock that I was going to discard anyway.
 
Hopefully mine won't be to bad.

According to the PO they were done just 15K ago but two years.

It's a rust free rig so that helps.

I'm wondering if a local place would have that GearWrench in stock.

It would be nice to have it all apart tomorrow as well.
 
I did this about 3 weeks ago with OEm shocks. Paid $31ish for rear each at Camelback. Front about $33.

Took the spare out first. Used a vise grip pliers at the lower bushing at the top of the shock. It kind of grasps into the top metal dust cover/sleeve and bottom washer at the top mount. It worked like a charm. Since the threads are bigger than those of a 17 mm nut, corrosion is not an issue. Apply some WD-40 and let is soak.

I used a regular wrench. Got the nut onto the stud and spun the shock dust shield few rounds until I cannot do it with hands. Then went with the wrench.
 
Seeing shocks that cost about $30 or so is painful. Simply because I also have a '01 BMW 750 and retail for EACH rear shock is $1652. I was able to get them for a screaming deal of $690 each.
 
Seeing shocks that cost about $30 or so is painful. Simply because I also have a '01 BMW 750 and retail for EACH rear shock is $1652. I was able to get them for a screaming deal of $690 each.

Good heavens!

That's crazy!
 
Just a suggestion: Autozone has Gabriel Ultras for ~35 each and they come with a lifetime warranty. Additionally, I've had them on for about two months and they're pretty awesome. If anything goes wrong, I can swap them out with no questions asked.

Pretty happy with their performance and value.
 
I appreciate the recommendation,

I actually ordered all four OEM last night from McGeorge. Added a fuel filter also as I want to replace it.

186 shipped for all five items, not to bad.
 
Good that you chose OEM shocks. I have Monroes in rear in my 4runner. Not bad, but the tube of those shocks are quite narrow compared to OEM so I will eventually replace those with OEM.
 
So what's a reasonable lifespan for these shocks?

I'm looking into an AHC delete on my LX and was planning to go OEM. I'll probably do 14k miles a year and 90% city driving, 10% light off road. Not that they're expensive, but it would be nice to not have to do the job every year!
 
Good heavens!

That's crazy!

Yes, yes it is.

But the car and the V12 are amazing - it's the perfect summer cruiser for long trips - while I routinely drive the 40 7+ hours in a day, the wife isn't quite as enthusiastic about long trips in 40 as I am. The hundy is really for winter duty.
 
So what's a reasonable lifespan for these shocks?

I'm looking into an AHC delete on my LX and was planning to go OEM. I'll probably do 14k miles a year and 90% city driving, 10% light off road. Not that they're expensive, but it would be nice to not have to do the job every year!

OP probably just happen to get a dud. I am hoping my OEM shocks would last at least 50-60K which is not bad considering the price. When I replaced mine, the LC had 200K with I believe the original shocks - they were definitely way over due.
 
Well I did the shocks this afternoon!

Remarkable difference, especially since my right front was in two pieces when it came out! Wow!
See the pic, I knew something was up when I saw the shaft exposed and it was a lot longer than the drivers front.

I can say this though do yourself a favor and get a 22mm GearWrench or the one on Amazon that has the pivoting head. That alone could have saved me an hour. I had a regular 22mm wrench but wow it took a little time. I had to try and thread the shock body while holding the nut because the clearance in the rear is workable but the pass side rear has the exhaust and an ABS sensor wire in the way. You can work around them but the GearWrench would have been great there. Also I'll add an extra set of hands would also help.

I also ended up borrowing my dads 460 Channellocks. I was able to use a med sized rubber strap wrench but the right rear was to much and I couldn't get a bite in it. Good thing I had my Tacoma here.

Dads Channellocks saved the day!

I'm going to be looking to hopefully lift my cruiser next year and those two items are going on my Amazon wish-list.

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