DIY Rustproofing experiment: wood tar vs linseed oil vs engine oil (3 Viewers)

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Haven't went too well with the weekly updates lately, but today I put them back in the saltwater after several weeks of both rain and sunshine.
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As usual I'm mostly commenting on the bare metal pieces: uncoated is the most damaged and has somehow even picked up a dent. It's got hard black oxidation on the surface with loose orange rust over that. Motor oil has only got the orange stuff. Linseed oil has it's own thing going on and seems the least damaged to me. The metal under the tar is still completely rust free, even at the edges of the holes I made in the tar layer in the last update.

The saltwater haven't gotten through the paint yet, and I completely forgot to take a closer look at the rusty piece.

We'll see if I continue with the weekly updates or if I just update when something significant has happened. The second test is also coming, but I've got more important stuff going on with both my time and my money right now.
 
Almost months of saltwater (I took them out a couple days ago) hasn't been as bad as I had hoped for. The tar seems to have dried out a bit though, on the bare metal piece it's even flaking at the edge.

Once I get my sheep sheared I'll try mixing wool fat, tar and oil for hopefully the undercoating. At the same time I'll try some hammerite, as I have some parts that I want painted but I don't want to do it properly.
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I've done some further testing that I apparently have not documented: a mix of tar, linseed oil and grease. I haven't done the saltwater test, but I like the theory I have: tar and linseed oil both like to harden when they're in such thin layers, but the grease should keep them sticky. Winter is coming, I have several cars that need rustproofing and the guy I usually hire to spray oil under them doesn't have time to do it this year so it's going into real world use immediately.
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More specifics for the new mix:

3 parts pine tar, 2 parts linseed oil, 1 part grease.

Mix 3 parts rustproofing with 1 or 2 parts xylene for easier use with a spray gun. Other solvents will also work.

It is brown when applied...
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...but turns a nice black color after a couple days. It should never get dry though.
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It took about four liters of rustproofing to do the frame and axles of my Land Rover, so probably around 10 liters for a Land Cruiser where you also want to rustproof the floor and wheelarches. Using the cheapest components available in Finland the cost per liter comes to 10.83€.
 
I've done some further testing that I apparently have not documented: a mix of tar, linseed oil and grease. I haven't done the saltwater test, but I like the theory I have: tar and linseed oil both like to harden when they're in such thin layers, but the grease should keep them sticky. Winter is coming, I have several cars that need rustproofing and the guy I usually hire to spray oil under them doesn't have time to do it this year so it's going into real world use immediately.
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Love the ramps...that looks like something I'd do.
 

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