I was looking through other threads that might be able to detail the process of what it's like to change out the Fan bracket pulley since I haven't done it before. I did it today and it was a bitch (took me about 6 hours) but I got it done and it wasn't too difficult as it was mostly just knowing the things to remove and how to get at certain bolts but it did take me longer than I hoped because I couldn't find videos on a Land Cruiser 100 replacement video. So here's the steps I took to get it done. Unfortunately I didn't take any photos but I figure anything is better than nothing.
Step 1) Drain all coolant from the vehicle using the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator, there is an opening in the baseplate about a foot from the front left of the vehicle. Additionally drain the coolant from the engine block if you know how to. It's a bitch to find the drain plugs for the block but they are on either side. Just attach some hose from your auto part store (I used flexible vacuum line I bought in bulk). Here's a diagram of the drain plugs
Step 2) LEAVE THE SERPENTINE BELT ON and loosen then remove the 4 12mm nuts that hold on the fan clutch. If your belt has broken or fallen off (like mine did) go to your local auto parts store and borrow their fan clutch removal tool. Remove the serpentine belt after this.
3) Unbolt the 12mm bolts that hold on the electrical lines, A/C hoses and coolant reservoir and the 3 12mm bolts that keep the fan shroud mounted to the radiator. There are two bolts up top and 1 on the left side just below the coolant reservoir. Remove reservoir, fan shroud and fan clutch.
4) You don't have to do this but I removed the air intake assembly. It's pretty easy just two 10mm bolts on the left side of the assembly and use a phillips head to loosen the screws that keep the clips things (I can't remember what they are called) that keep the hose connected to the air filter side and then the throttle body side. There's a handful of vacuum hoses that need to be pulled off as well. You can manage the whole thing without removing this but having the extra space was really helpful for putting the serpentine belt back on.
5) Remove the timing belt covers on both sides (great time to change your timing belt if you know how to do that). On the left there will be an additional cover that is more towards the middle that mounts to the fan bracket over it so you need to take it off. I believe there are 3 10mm bolts on either side and 1 10mm plastic nut in the middle of the cover on either side. There are two 12mm(?) bolts on the middle cover that need to come out. You will also need to disconnect the electrical plugs that come out of the cover on the right to get enough space to remove the bracket. Remove left timing belt covers and set aside. Move the right one with the electrical plug out of the way but don't bother to remove it.
6) Remove idler pulley (the top one) using a 15mm and remove every other bolt or nut connected to the front of the bracket. You might want to change the bearing for the idler pulley at this point but you don't have to. Not counting the idle pulley bolt, there should be 7 things to remove from the bracket at this point. 6 of them are in front, I believe 3 12mm bolts (after the one that runs through the middle timing belt cover) 1 14 mm nut, 1 10 mm bolt that mounts a coolant line, a 14 mm big one on the bottom right. Then two 14mm bolts that connect on the side of the bracket through the A/C compressor (bottom right pulley). The one closest to the bottom you can reach from the front pretty easily and the one on top is a bitch to get to. I used two long extensions and went through the wheel well right next to the shock and was able to remove it easily from there.
7) Disconnect the coolant hoses that attatch to the T connector that then runs down to where the oil filter is. If you didn't drain the engine block coolant you will definitely have some spillage at this point. If you can plug the hose some way then that makes things easier.
8) Disconnect the electrical plug that is connected to the bracket on the bottom right of the fan bracket. Use a pair of pliers to then slide the side of the connector that is mounted and move it out of the way. At this point you can either bend the corner piece out of the way or use a really long phillips head screwdriver to remove the two screws that keep the metal piece from removing the fan bracket, or you can just bend it out of the way with pliers or a screwdriver.
9) Now you can finally remove the fan bracket, just pull it off, take the screws out of the front plate and put into new fan bracket (if your fan bracket didn't come with new ones already.
10) Work backwards and put everything back on!
I hope this was helpful, sorry there's no photos. You should definitely look into changing your timing belt since you basically take all the stuff off that you need to get off to change it anyways. But obviously timing the belt if you don't know how to or don't have proper tools to do it.
Cheers
Step 1) Drain all coolant from the vehicle using the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator, there is an opening in the baseplate about a foot from the front left of the vehicle. Additionally drain the coolant from the engine block if you know how to. It's a bitch to find the drain plugs for the block but they are on either side. Just attach some hose from your auto part store (I used flexible vacuum line I bought in bulk). Here's a diagram of the drain plugs
Step 2) LEAVE THE SERPENTINE BELT ON and loosen then remove the 4 12mm nuts that hold on the fan clutch. If your belt has broken or fallen off (like mine did) go to your local auto parts store and borrow their fan clutch removal tool. Remove the serpentine belt after this.
3) Unbolt the 12mm bolts that hold on the electrical lines, A/C hoses and coolant reservoir and the 3 12mm bolts that keep the fan shroud mounted to the radiator. There are two bolts up top and 1 on the left side just below the coolant reservoir. Remove reservoir, fan shroud and fan clutch.
4) You don't have to do this but I removed the air intake assembly. It's pretty easy just two 10mm bolts on the left side of the assembly and use a phillips head to loosen the screws that keep the clips things (I can't remember what they are called) that keep the hose connected to the air filter side and then the throttle body side. There's a handful of vacuum hoses that need to be pulled off as well. You can manage the whole thing without removing this but having the extra space was really helpful for putting the serpentine belt back on.
5) Remove the timing belt covers on both sides (great time to change your timing belt if you know how to do that). On the left there will be an additional cover that is more towards the middle that mounts to the fan bracket over it so you need to take it off. I believe there are 3 10mm bolts on either side and 1 10mm plastic nut in the middle of the cover on either side. There are two 12mm(?) bolts on the middle cover that need to come out. You will also need to disconnect the electrical plugs that come out of the cover on the right to get enough space to remove the bracket. Remove left timing belt covers and set aside. Move the right one with the electrical plug out of the way but don't bother to remove it.
6) Remove idler pulley (the top one) using a 15mm and remove every other bolt or nut connected to the front of the bracket. You might want to change the bearing for the idler pulley at this point but you don't have to. Not counting the idle pulley bolt, there should be 7 things to remove from the bracket at this point. 6 of them are in front, I believe 3 12mm bolts (after the one that runs through the middle timing belt cover) 1 14 mm nut, 1 10 mm bolt that mounts a coolant line, a 14 mm big one on the bottom right. Then two 14mm bolts that connect on the side of the bracket through the A/C compressor (bottom right pulley). The one closest to the bottom you can reach from the front pretty easily and the one on top is a bitch to get to. I used two long extensions and went through the wheel well right next to the shock and was able to remove it easily from there.
7) Disconnect the coolant hoses that attatch to the T connector that then runs down to where the oil filter is. If you didn't drain the engine block coolant you will definitely have some spillage at this point. If you can plug the hose some way then that makes things easier.
8) Disconnect the electrical plug that is connected to the bracket on the bottom right of the fan bracket. Use a pair of pliers to then slide the side of the connector that is mounted and move it out of the way. At this point you can either bend the corner piece out of the way or use a really long phillips head screwdriver to remove the two screws that keep the metal piece from removing the fan bracket, or you can just bend it out of the way with pliers or a screwdriver.
9) Now you can finally remove the fan bracket, just pull it off, take the screws out of the front plate and put into new fan bracket (if your fan bracket didn't come with new ones already.
10) Work backwards and put everything back on!
I hope this was helpful, sorry there's no photos. You should definitely look into changing your timing belt since you basically take all the stuff off that you need to get off to change it anyways. But obviously timing the belt if you don't know how to or don't have proper tools to do it.
Cheers
