DIY Diagnosing and Repair of 2005+ Catalytic Converter Failure

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elk

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May 28, 2014
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Skip to the bottom of this post to see a 3rd world solution to a first world problem.

The problem:


Well, this one isn't going to be fun. After nearly missing HIH7 due to a blown fuel pump (apologies to everyone who has had to hear about it, and thanks to those who offered to help) my truck has come home to a possible blown Cat.

The first symptoms were P0420 and P0430 codes throughout the week and coming home from Colorado. I reset those with my OBD II tool.

Interestingly, I also popped two P1441 (Secondary Air Induction stuck on) codes. I had a Hewitt bypass kit sitting in the truck for this occasion that I installed. I will do block off plates when I replace the Cat.

Now I understand that Cat failures are rare in these trucks. A rattle, similar to a diesel truck has developed as of yesterday that points me again toward a Cat failure. I checked for loose plates, heat shields, etc. everything is tight. There is a distinct rattle coming from the Driver's side Cat. This is where things turn expensive. The OEM catalytic converter costs about $1300 from most online dealer parts.

A Magnaflow 49422 catalytic converter is also available for $440. The production cutoff date is 5/01/05. My truck was manufactured in 05/05. Magnaflow says that they have a model in development for later production dates, but of course it isn't available yet.

Where to go from here? I considered a Cat delete, but URD no longer offers an O2 simulator for the 2UZ citing reliability issues. They do offer a dual channel universal kit.

I might opt to order the universal Cat from Amazon and test for compatibility. Any other suggestions before I dive into this expensive mess?

* 8/17 Edit - the $5 fix...

After a drawn out issue with an online vendor over the Benchmark replacement catalytic converter, I had to opt for a solution that would get my truck running again. Using a screwdriver, bucket, and a Shop-Vac, I removed the damaged catalyst element from the passenger converter. Taking my time, I managed to break up only the damaged portion of the element through the open bung and then sift and vacuum out the remaining fragments. This was not my preferred solution, but as a temporary fix it should work. I ensured good flow using the vacuum and am satisfied that I have not clogged the remaining elements. In full disclosure, I plan to save up for replacement OEM or stainless Magnaflow cats when they become available.

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The key component is a Help! 42002 Spark Plug Anti-fouler.

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The threads match up to the oxygen sensor...

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But the O2 sensor obviously doesn't fit the inner bore.

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Drill out to the proper diameter, and remember to take a better photo the next time you post.

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Offset is now 18mm, these will still clear the body with plenty of room to spare. This pulls the O2 sensor out of the direct exhaust flow and seems to clear the sensor codes. I did this to both cats to balance the signals.
 
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Wait what? URD no longer offers the O2 simulator for our trucks? I was just getting ready to order one too, damn it.

Cat delete and spark plug non foulers? I was considering those before I found out about the URD kit but thought it would be hard to do with the rear O2's being mounted the way they are, I have not yet figured out how to install them with the studs that hole the O2's on.

I have no idea's otherwise.
 
Cat delete is my least likely option. The 2UZ is known for being hard to tune with the exception of superchargers. My guess is that Toyota's engineers have designed it to run at a very specific back pressure and I'd rather not mess with that too much. If EMS cats were still available I would happily swing for those.

I spoke with a fella at URD today by the name of Gadget. He explained to me that there were inconsistencies in the reliability of the 4.7 O2 simulators and URD stopped production as a result.
 
Did you ask about the universal O2 simulator?
There just seems to be to many variables that set off cat codes.
I'm not interested in tuning.
 
is the difference in part numbers from the early 100's to the 05-07 years because of the placement of the 02 sensor?
I thought I read that somewhere.
I Didn't realize this would be a problem until I just looked at part numbers, but I thought I read in another post that the position of one of the sensors had changed in 05.
@$1000 & $1300 respectively, I would not spend the money.
I would attempt buying an early cat replacement, compare differences and do what needed to be done. Find a flange and weld it however it needed to be, weld bungs etc.

edit.
ok never mind. I went outside and looked, looked up part #s etc. The 06-07 have regular o2 sensor bungs, front and rear, the sensors are the same part number front and rear. That makes me believe they are both widebands, whereas the earlier 100 had one Narrowband and one wideband per side. That would definitely make it easier when a cat fails. It makes sense that the rear one would be middle of the cat and not post cat. Any muffler place can weld a bung wherever you need it. I wouldn't be afraid to try a cheap cat for any year 100 and test it out. I can't say I would gut the cat and do whatever I needed to do to fake the secondary WB either. I'm just thinking out loud, as I'm sure I will face this at some point.
I would make absolutely sure that the fuel system is all up to speed.
Watch your o2 sensor temp on the supposedly bad side.

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Man those guys want a lot of money for O2 sensors, I realize you were just looking things up, but wow.
$50/ea on Amazon.
 
Spike, it appears that the Universal Simulator requires a bit of tuning, apparently with a screwdriver to the unit, to achieve the signal that makes the ECU happy, it is not plug and play.

Jerryb, I will order a set of Magnaflow 49422's and test the fit. If the length is good and the ends line up, I can probably work out a fix either in the form of new bungs or a threaded adapter. I will also order a set of spark plug anti-foul ERS to use as spacers if the Cat codes continue.

I'd like to put the catalytic converter replacement issue to rest on the '05-'07 models.
 
did you look to see if you had the same sensors front and rear? My build date is 05/12
I would assume that cat will work if you have the flange variety of rear o2.
Let us know how it works. Good luck.
 
Is your exhaust manifold cracked? Do you have any vacuum leaks?
 
I do have the typical ticking from the right manifold. My vacuum lines are in good condition.
 
Well, I had the chance to remove the catalytic converter on the passenger side tonight. After striking both Cats with a dead blow, and considering that my wife said the passenger floorboard was getting very hot at HIH, I went for the right side unit. The element inside had completely delaminated. It rattles and you can see the element moving through the O2 sensor hole. Considering replacement options at this time.

Presently, I have found a replacement with the correct O2 sensor locations from Davico, P/N 17194. Davico has spotty feedback mostly with regard to fitment, but the unit can be found on RockAuto for $248.79 each. Scratching my head about how to proceed, but I'll be ordering something this coming week.
 
I also found The Benchmark 3235 and 3236 catalytic converters that retail ~$350 apiece. These look to be of slightly better quality than the Davico's and carry a five year / 50,000 mile warranty. Both the Davico's and Benchmark's are alumized steel.
 
Keep us posted. Are you replacing both sides at the same time? That is how I would do it, but thats me.
 
by the way, when my front o2 sensor was acting up, the dealer I bought it from took it to "his guy" who handles emission stuff. they replaced my PS cat converter. I got the truck back, and 24 hours later, we have the CEL on again. turns out it was the front o2 sensor. The good news is, whatever he used to replace my cat has been problem free since december.

I will also say that once we swapped the upstream o2 sensor, the CEL went off immediately. In the past I was told it would take 24-48 hours for the CEL to clear. MR T's computers are smart!!!

Finally, The whole CEL light pisses me off to no end. I always thought that the CEL meant something bad wrong was happening w your engine... not exactly. I spent 10 hours of my life and 1000 dollars trying to fix a stupid fxxxing light.
 
I ordered the pair of Benchmarks. I would much rather have the stainless Magnaflows, but it appears that they would need a new bung welded in.
 
hey Elk, it would be cool to see a picture of your removed cat.
I'll post one as soon as I get back home. I also plan to dive into it a little to see what other fixes are possible.
 
by the way, when my front o2 sensor was acting up, the dealer I bought it from took it to "his guy" who handles emission stuff. they replaced my PS cat converter. I got the truck back, and 24 hours later, we have the CEL on again. turns out it was the front o2 sensor. The good news is, whatever he used to replace my cat has been problem free since december.

I will also say that once we swapped the upstream o2 sensor, the CEL went off immediately. In the past I was told it would take 24-48 hours for the CEL to clear. MR T's computers are smart!!!

Finally, The whole CEL light pisses me off to no end. I always thought that the CEL meant something bad wrong was happening w your engine... not exactly. I spent 10 hours of my life and 1000 dollars trying to fix a stupid ****ing light.

Amber warning lights mean "get to it soon, but no big deal"
Red warning light means "stop driving it now, it will explode"
 
roger that... Trying to train my wife to let me know when a light comes on!
 

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