Difficulty level - UCA replacement

[Bloomer]

Thinking about upgrading UCAs to SPC or TC. Would like to do myself since there are no local shops that specialize in land cruisers and haven't had the best luck with my local dealer. Curious what the difficulty level is for this job and if any special tools are needed (outside of realignment after completing). Reference to the banana scale is ok.

From what I've read and observations behind the wheel, it doesn't look to be terribly difficult. I habe moderate mechanical skill level. Real life experience from others who have done the job is appreciated!

 

[BamaHeel]

Look at the CV replacement threads the initial steps therein are basically it, once you have gotten it loose with the knuckle puller I think its just a couple of bolts at the other attachment points. Not too difficult.

Here's a link to Slee's installation instructions:

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/common_files/spc_25455.pdf

 

[perrobravo]

I installed the SPC UCAs solo, in the driveway. Took a few hours, maybe a bit more. The hardest part was taking multiple trips to the auto parts store to get the right ball joint removal tool. If I had the right tool in the beginning it could have been done in half the time, not including going to get a wheel alignment.

 

[2000UZJ]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/total-chaos-installation-thread.763608/

 

[Bloomer]

Thanks Nick. Guess when I searched I included SPC in my search criteria and missed your write up. Great write up. Thanks for the link.

 

[Bloomer]

Perro...any details on the ball joint removal tool you can share? Nearest parts store to me is a 2.5 hour round trip. Will need to have everything I need when I start or this job will take me days to complete.

 

[perrobravo]

Perro...any details on the ball joint removal tool you can share? Nearest parts store to me is a 2.5 hour round trip. Will need to have everything I need when I start or this job will take me days to complete.

Out of laziness, I tried this one which I found at the hardware store within a mile of my house. No bueno. Bent beyond recognition quickly and caused more than a bit of swearing.

http://www.dustbird.com/ih8mud/pullernobueno.jpg


Then, I drove a few more miles to the nearest auto parts place that loans tools and got this one that did the trick easily. Sorry about the blurry pic. Not sure what brand it is, but I'm sure any of this style will work. Full disclosure: I also tried hammering, prying, fabbing up my own "tool", and other techniques that didn't work at all and cost me a bunch of time.

http://www.dustbird.com/ih8mud/puller.jpg

 

[kevin2i]

I i . . . .The hardest part was taking multiple trips to the auto parts store to get the right ball joint removal tool. . . . .

NO! No ball joint tool required. Special tool: BFH. The UCA is designed to separate with a hammer - see the lugs around the knuckle? Big hammer will drop the knuckle with 3-4 whacks (keep the nut on loosely).

When removing the adjustment bolts/washers, mark them so you can get the alignment back 'roughly' - then head to alignment shop first thing after replacement. Some of the bolts are easily accessible from the top.

 

[AimCOtaco]

NO! No ball joint tool required. Special tool: BFH. The UCA is designed to separate with a hammer - see the lugs around the knuckle? Big hammer will drop the knuckle with 3-4 whacks (keep the nut on loosely).

^^^Not true for every 15yr old 100 that grew up in michigan at least. For me one side popped quick and easy, the other fought the puller/BFH/PB combo for at least 2 days of on again off again tensioning, banging, spraying, and cursing.

 

[Rover4]

My 2-pound brass hammer worked perfectly for me - Just back off the nut, eat your Wheaties, and whack the side of the knuckle. My upper balljoint popped out on the third hit. Of course, my LC100 is a Socal rust-free model. Not sure how to follow the hammer method? Then check out this video.

To answer the OP, the upper a-arm replacement is fairly straight forward as long as you have a decent toolbox.