differential oil change

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Dec 12, 2004
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hey im new to this forum and would like to say hello.

also i have a 2000 lexus lx470 with about 68,000 miles on it and thinks its time to change the diff oils. I have no idea where the drain and fill bolts are located and what kind of tools i need to get them off. My rear diff is pure black and seems like its covered in burnt oil.

I tried to search on this forum fot this but no luck. I am going on a trip in about 2 weeks so i want to get the oils changed before i go. So any help asap would be great.

first i need to know how many quarts of oil i need?
is using mobil 1 75w90 in the front and rear and center ok?
and is there any pics of the drain and fill bolts?

thanks guys :cheers:
 
I would recommend using a synthetic gear oil like the Mobile 1( It doesn't take much and you don't change it often) . I use Amsoil 80W-90 but 75W-90 should be just fine. The Max Ellerly manual I have said 2.9 US Qts but I used just over 3 Qts. You need a pump or piston type tool to get the lube into the diff. I used a piston type ( just like a large leaky syringe) but think one of the drill driven pumps would be worth the expense. Very easy service that shops charge way too much for.

I would consider changing the Transfer case fluid at the same time. It is the same fluid (75w-90) and is also probably ready to be changed. With full time 4wd the transfer case works hard in our vehicles. Takes 1.8 Qts. Uses a 12mm bolt.

Welcome to the site. I'm new also and this is the best Cruiser site on the web.
 
Ditto to NMuzj. I don't have all the quantity data in front of me, but a hand pump with a small hose attached works well to fill the diffs and t-case. I got mine from NAPA and it fits on the Amsoil gear lube bottles. I decided to do this once a year to monitor the condition of the fluids, whether it needs it or not. One warning: BE SURE TO LOOSEN THE FILL PLUGS FIRST! If not and they are stuck or stripped, you're stuck and your wallet may be stripped.

Do you have the Toyota service manuals? They can be had from CDan or Ebay and they have all the plug locations. Be sure to lube the drive shafts as well.

Welcome to the site. Maybe the rookies will take over?
 
could anyone of you that have the service manuel post it on this site?

also are you sure the lx470 takes such little fluid? i was told that to do the front diff,rear diff and center diff. it would take up to 11 or 12 quarts of fluid?
 
i was told that to do the front diff,rear diff and center diff. it would take up to 11 or 12 quarts of fluid?[/QUOTE]

Only if you put the proper amount in the diffs and t-case and the rest (7-8 qts) goes on the garage floor.
 
on the floor? what is that suppose to mean?

Emerillive:

Generally speaking, if you notice, the drain and fill plugs on your differentials are tough to get to with the regular quart bottles of gear oil. Many people--if they don't have a pumping mechanism or some other type of fluid xfer system--just stick the quart end into the fill plug and proceed to put about half a quart in, squeezing the bottle, bending it, trying to get it drain out of the bottle into the diff./xfer case. What you end up getting is a lot on the floor because of leaking factors and the horizontal disposition of the fill hole.

If oyu haven't already done it, you'll probably experience this phenomena when you do. Of course, unless you get a pumping mechanism of some sort.

Best regards.
-onur
Akron, OH
 
Right on- on the floor. My point is that NMuzj's capacity numbers are accurate, they are also quidelines. You shouldn't need more than 6 qts total to do the job, unless half of it spills during the process. I don't know if I have the ability to scan the pages from my manual, but I will try and post if I can. It really is an easy job, but gets easier each time.
 
Put in the extended breathers while you are under there. It's an easy adaptation and helps prevent water from spoiling your efforts if you offroad the thing.
 
I save a couple of those valvoline gear oil bottles (I think the M1 bottles are similar...with the spouts) for tranny/xfer case and diff oils. The drill pump or some kind of pump is, otherwise, a must. Another tip...use a 6 pt socket (24mm?) to remove the diff fill/drain bolts. A 12 pt might strip it eventually. I use S&K impact sockets (grip on the sides of the bolts, not the corners). Use new crush gaskets, too.
 
Not a lot to photograph on the diffs ( it is the pumpkin shaped thing between the tires on each axle), they have a drain plug on the bottom and a fill plug about half-way up . hank14's advice to check the fill plugs first is a good idea. Clean the area around the fill plug before removing it so you don't get any foreign matter inside the diff. Before I do any under truck work I run in by the coin wash and clean the underside so I am not laying in mud and then give it some time to dry.
I don't have a shop manual yet just Max Ellerly Manual . The only real trick is the lube pump (NAPA $6 for Sta-lube lube pump) and removing the skid guards on the front. 3+3+2 = 8 Qts of Gear Lube and I would buy a couple extra for possible spillage (extras can be returned). Also remember to thoroughly clean the magnetic drain plug off ( it will have powderized metal sludge on it - any bigger chunks could indicate a problem) before installing, make sure its threads are lubed with new gear oil to prevent seizing, and that the sealing washer is still present. Fill to level with the bottom of the fill hole.
 
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so all the bolts are the same sizes? all i need to pick up is a 6pt 24mm socket? also how does the impact socket work? you can use it with a regualr socket wrench?
 
the thing is when i went under the car there were so many other bolts around the center and front diff's that i cant really tell what is what. but the rear i could see the drain bolt pretty clearly.
 
White Shark brings up the breathers. The link about extending them is here Extended breathers. This is a great project for those who really off-road. We should probably try and do a 100 series write-up.

At a least I would check the tube for holes or kinks and check that the caps are clean and turn freely.

The drain and fill for the T-Case are on the back of the case and are easy to spot.

Of course while under the truck and in work clothes one should probably lube everything underneath, But especially the propeller shafts as these seem to be prone to lube related problems.
 
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The front diff plugs use a hex nut attachment, i forget the size. I'm still working on scanning the pictures.
 
I tried to upload the scanned pages of the manual, it said the files were too large. Anybody have a fax machine I can send it too? Email? Business mailing address? I'm trying to help a thirsty 100 series get some fresh lube here!
 
thanks hank for trying. i appreaciate that, but i just did it and bought 9 quarts. The car took about 6.5-7 quarts of fluid for center,rear,front. thanks anyways. :cheers:
 
What, no pictures and detailed write up for future generations? I 'm sure you feel better now.
 

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