diff temp?
- Thread starter jkl72-40
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That seams too hot. Without an actual temperature it is hard to know. If you are getting real hot it may be getting above the oils breakdown temperature. Have you checked your oil level in it lately? When was the last time the diff oil was changed? It may be old and nolonger providing proper lubrication.
if it is hot enough to burn you i would not think that is good, and i would be checking, and changing the fluid. but depending how long it has been getting that hot, you may have worse problems.
I would bet the temperature and vibrations are most likely related. Sure they will get warm on a long commute but should be just right to warm your cold hands not burn them. Most likely you probably have a decent amount of water in the oil and the oil is no longer doing its job or lack of oil. As mentioned by others the bad part is damage has most likely been done especially if the vibration is related.
If you find out it is heavily damaged from lack of oil, likely the cheap option is to just get a replacement differential from a junk yard, recondition it and try it out.
If it wasnt so darn far from Arizona to Oregon I would say ship me the third and I would diagnose it as well as fix it cheap but honestly shipping would probably kill you and make it worth taking it local. If you grab one from a junk yard and you are nervous to check it atleast if nothing else mark your adjusters and tighten both sides equally some..... If you do it even remotely equally you have nothing to worry about and your only helping yourself.
Is the vibration by chance specific to when you let off the gas or throttle into it? Or is it all the time?
Is the vibration by chance specific to when you let off the gas or throttle into it? Or is it all the time?
Driveshaft?
Have you check the drive shaft for missing weights or dents maybe?diff. temp, would not cause your vibration i have built a lot of diffs and temp. is not something would cause a diff to fail the lack of fluid will and improper adjustment.on average a diff. could reach up to 200 degrees or more depending on load you also don't get very much airflow down there.
Have you check the drive shaft for missing weights or dents maybe?diff. temp, would not cause your vibration i have built a lot of diffs and temp. is not something would cause a diff to fail the lack of fluid will and improper adjustment.on average a diff. could reach up to 200 degrees or more depending on load you also don't get very much airflow down there.
I don't think my diffs ever get much more than warm to the touch. You may have ring or pinion out of adjustment causing too much contact and excessive friction, bad or not enough oil, or your bearings may be shot. Is it making any noise? You can try to change to oil and see if it helps, but I would pull it and take a look!
You can adjust your pinion via the sleeve, carrier adjusted by bearing caps. You can find pics of proper patterns online, but as stated above, its cheaper and a lot less work to pull a diff thats already setup in your local u pull.
don't adjust
I would not suggest making adjustments to your current set up even if your gears are worn it has nothing to do with heat different gears will build up heat depending on the amount of lubricant in the case.it is not adviseable to adjust your gear set up it could cause noise or humming eventually causing annoyance to you and passengers.if your diff. fluid is full and clean i would not worry about the heat issue.make sure your diff. vent is not pluged up it helps venting heat build up in your case.
I would not suggest making adjustments to your current set up even if your gears are worn it has nothing to do with heat different gears will build up heat depending on the amount of lubricant in the case.it is not adviseable to adjust your gear set up it could cause noise or humming eventually causing annoyance to you and passengers.if your diff. fluid is full and clean i would not worry about the heat issue.make sure your diff. vent is not pluged up it helps venting heat build up in your case.
What if his crush sleeve is collapsed and the pinion is walking back and forth... If his cbpl is loose than adjusting probably isnt the answer as he most likely is having a bearing/race failure for it to be that loose so I guess maybe that is what you are referring too which yeah I suppose i agree. Plain and simple it should not be that hot you have a problem. Check the oil and or tear it down for inspection its the rear it only takes a second to pull. Crawl under there and push on the flange and see if it wiggles in and out or up and down AT ALL. I have never had one that hot that I couldnt hold my hand on it.
Oh back to your question to me.... If you purchase one from the junk yard before you install it into your rig you will see two little keepers held on by one 12mm bolt on each side of the bearing caps. Take them off and you will see the large carrier bearing preload nuts. They have a bunch of holes in them. Make a mark on each nut and also ont the bearing cap so you can see where they were at originally. Then tighten each side equally and tap on the caps while spinning the pinion to make the bearings equalize. Then once each side is tightened equal to the other side put the keepers back on the bearing caps with a little red loctite. It is recommended to go all the way up to 150 ft lbs of torque on each of those so dont feel as though tightening them a little bit is at all risky. It strengthens the ring gear and reduces bearing/cap deflection. I am sorry no disrespect but viper if you were referring to not doing this step I apolagize but I disagree and would be happy to send you to a site that swears by it and knows a lot better than both of us..... If you were referring to running the pattern and changing pinion depths ok I agree.
No need for apology 4x4,first of all i don't consider my self as an expert on drivetrain or differential although this is part of my daily work.i understand some of your points but you also need to ask yourself if your actually solving the problem.first and foremost temperature is not an indication that something is going bad in the diff.certain diffs will run cooler than others depending on size and fluid capacity just for example i finished rebuilding a 8.25 rear diff. on a Grand cherokee today and had to break it in after the diff. cover temp. was at 160 degrees with only 20 miles of driving on a flat road and this is a small diff in comparison to a cruiser 3rd member which may run cooler on the same distance of driving.this particular jeep had a pinion nut came loose due to improper preload from another shop but the customer never complained of any vibrations prior to the pinion shaft coming apart and jammed itself in the ring gear (ouch) thank god that she was in a parking lot when it came apart.
You have a good point in regards to the pinion nut backing out very possible but it still won't be related to a high temp. issue like what out friend is experiencing correct me if i'm wrong but from what you mention in regards to the side adjusters it's just tightening up your backlash and if you have a pinion nut that backed out it only means that you have to crush the crush sleeve a lil more to keep tension and preload on the bearings and when you do that it could cause bearing failure same thing applies to side or carrier bearings.we both know that when it was assembled all this preload was already applied when the bearing was new and applying more torque to a worn bearing is a possible failure.i welcome your criticism and i don't take anything personal.hope this helps out in some way or form.
John
Awesome I always like healthy dialogs!
No I am not referring to tightening up the backlash at all. That is why I recommend tightening each adjuster the EXACT same amount and tapping on the caps while spinning the pinion so that the backlash never changes and it simply adds carrier bearing preload and yes even to used bearings. In regards to your question about the crush sleeve and heat I was thinking in terms of the ring gear needing at minimum .006 backlash or it will be starved of oil. I am trying to play it out in my head if the pinion would walk in or out under forward driving in the event the pinion bearing preload becomes loose. If the pinion walked into the ring gear it would reduce backlash possibly starving the ring gear of oil.. i am simply thinking outloud and have not fully ran this in my mind which is why I simply thought he should crawl under it and try and wiggle the pinion. I dont blame you it seems crazy to add 150 CPBL to each adjuster nut but it is proven to only add less than 20 inch pounds of rolling resistance to the carrier with lubed bearings. I know his doesnt sound to be a rock racer by no means where bearing cap deflection is a huge issue (normal cause of toyota ring gear and pinion breakage) so in his case as I recommended I would just tighten them a little and ensure there is addequate CBPL.
I am not referring to tightening the side adjusters to fix his current issue... I agree that is pointless. As I mentioned if he has actual loose CBPL at this point it would be an indication of a bearing failure on the carrier. I am referring to if he picks up a different used one from the junk yard.
No I am not referring to tightening up the backlash at all. That is why I recommend tightening each adjuster the EXACT same amount and tapping on the caps while spinning the pinion so that the backlash never changes and it simply adds carrier bearing preload and yes even to used bearings. In regards to your question about the crush sleeve and heat I was thinking in terms of the ring gear needing at minimum .006 backlash or it will be starved of oil. I am trying to play it out in my head if the pinion would walk in or out under forward driving in the event the pinion bearing preload becomes loose. If the pinion walked into the ring gear it would reduce backlash possibly starving the ring gear of oil.. i am simply thinking outloud and have not fully ran this in my mind which is why I simply thought he should crawl under it and try and wiggle the pinion. I dont blame you it seems crazy to add 150 CPBL to each adjuster nut but it is proven to only add less than 20 inch pounds of rolling resistance to the carrier with lubed bearings. I know his doesnt sound to be a rock racer by no means where bearing cap deflection is a huge issue (normal cause of toyota ring gear and pinion breakage) so in his case as I recommended I would just tighten them a little and ensure there is addequate CBPL.
Brain freeze
I hope 4x4 and i didn't rattle your brain too much with all this info for such a small issue.it's always nice to hear from another persons perspective it's a healthy dialogue without calling out each other any names and such.
I hope 4x4 and i didn't rattle your brain too much with all this info for such a small issue.it's always nice to hear from another persons perspective it's a healthy dialogue without calling out each other any names and such.