Diesel Question

[BinaryDude]

Ok, get ready for my newb question...

The engine starts and runs just fine, but there is a LOT of vibration at idle. If I rev the engine up just a little bit the vibration basicly goes away. So, i am looking at new engine/tranny mounts right? that would be the most logical fix in my book...

 

[amaurer]

Ok, get ready for my newb question...

The engine starts and runs just fine, but there is a LOT of vibration at idle. If I rev the engine up just a little bit the vibration basicly goes away. So, i am looking at new engine/tranny mounts right? that would be the most logical fix in my book...

My engine used to shake the s*** out of my truck at 650rpm, so I would keep the idle up near 750. A can of seafoam through the injectors fixed it - now I can idle down to 550 smoother than I was at 750 before...

 

[BinaryDude]

Ok, i have 6 cans of seafoam. i'll grab one when i fill the tank.

 

[BEE-JAY42]

Some more detail would help. If it is the original B series diesel engine then alot of vibration at idle is normal, Bumping the idle up slightly will help smooth it out abit.

To check your engine mounts get someone you can trust to sit in the car, set engine speed to about 1500rpm with the hand throttle, then get them to hold the brakes on and release the clutch slowly until the engine starts to load up but not so it stalls. Meanwhile get under and check the mounts, if they are stuffed you will see the rubber seperating from the steel plates when under load. If your mounts are stuffed replace them, I had a mount seperate once and the engine moved so far it pulled the bottom radiator hose off, I lost all my coolant in about 2 seconds flat, no coolant no temp reading so I didn't even know the engine was getting hot until I seen the smoke from the oil that was pouring out from under my head and running down the hot block. (If you were wondering this engine is still running and has done 40,000k's since the overheat, I just waited till the engine had cooled and filled up the coolant, changed the oil when I got home and that was it.)

 

[BinaryDude]

The Engine is an original H. It has been starting rough... but i figured that since the diesel in the take is about 3-4 months old that might have something to do with it, but then again diesel is different then gas. I added about a gallon of canolla oil and topped the tank off with B20 so i hope that helps... I have spare fuel filters on hand, for the crude that will get knocked loose...

That is another question. What is a good indication that I need to change my fuel filter?

 

[Holden Power]

It may be a long shot but I had the same problem with my scout chech to see it the balencer is loose

 

[Holden Power]

also after the sea foam gets run through add about half a pint of marvel mystery oil to the fuel it has done wonders for the old diesels ive owned

 

[roscoFJ73]

Ok, get ready for my newb question...

The engine starts and runs just fine, but there is a LOT of vibration at idle. If I rev the engine up just a little bit the vibration basicly goes away. So, i am looking at new engine/tranny mounts right? that would be the most logical fix in my book...

Engine mounts are a good place to look.

Has this always had the nasty vibration or is it new?

I used to drive a friends ex mine 1979 HJ45 a few years back and it vibrated but it was normal.

The vibration wasnt all that bad ,but it was at just the right frequency to make metal panels rattle or drum.

We drove around with the idle turned up above the vibration point.

 

[BEE-JAY42]

Does the vibration settle down once the engine is a full operating temp?

The reason I ask is because the H series motors use the "superglow" glow plug system. Basically it gives your glowplugs full voltage for starting but also leaves them running at a lower voltage until the engine is hot enough. This lower voltage is delieverd through a heat sensitive resistor found in your inlet manifold (as the inlet air temp rises the voltage lowers and the plugs start lowering their temp), if this resistor has blown and you have an open circuit the engine will run rough until it is hot enough.

 

[Cruiser-Randy]

My HJ60 also idles rough, and I also increase the RPM (using the throttle, not the pedal), up above 700.

What kind of stores (Canada or New York) sell Sea Foam? Y'all seem sold on it.

For changing the fuel filter, since I run BD20 to BD100 (summer), I changed the filter soon after I started using the bio-diesel, and the only recommendation I have is from the previous owner: every 2nd oil change.

Where I buy the bio-diesel, they have not changed a fuel filter (in a Ford) in over a year of daily use, always on bio-diesel. They "recommend" frequent change once bio starts to clean the tank out.

 

[Holden Power]

**** BIO did you know it takes 1.87 gallons of standard diesel #2 in the states to just harvest the item used to make one gal of bio letalone the power req. its not cost effective no mater what the hippie say I dont care it your getting it from macs it still robs hp dirtys the engine and decreeses life of the engine this is coming from a person the is cat cummins and detroit certified and has tried it its a load of **** if your some hippy that thinks it going to save the world by all means suport the corn, safflowrn and soybean farmers lord knows they need it BUT IT SUCKS!!!!!!!!

 

[BinaryDude]

The shake seems to be decreasing between the engine warming up and flushing out of the old diesel. I'll update y'all more when I run my first tank dry.

 

[Cruiser-Randy]

BinaryDude: When I got my truck last spring, it ran rough, and the owner set the throttle for higher RPM to smooth it out.

I suspect partially the new fuels (since about 2006), added lubricants and conditioners, filled the tank, drove it home (a few hundred miles) and it ran better by the time I got here, has run better since.

I suspect (and will have checked) the thing in the air intake to do the gradual glow-plug shut-down. Keep at it! I am looking forward to trying that Sea Foam stuff, too.