Diesel Newbie

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I've understood from diesel guru's there are three smoke colors to be aware of with a diesel: White, Blue and Black. Blue in a gasser is an easy spot, however I have always had trouble telling the difference between blue and white on a cold diesel.

The typical 3B cough when cold results in a bluey/white puff out the tail pipe which makes sense (cylinder compression not igniting the fuel), This "cough" goes away away with use of the momentary glow switch, until the cylinder/piston is warm enough that compression does it on it's own. When it is not coughing, however still not warm there is still a light bluey/white haze, which reduces as the engine goes to operating tempurature and start to compression burn nicely.

This same 3B loves belching black when under heavy load at altitude. This also makes sense; over fuelling or not enough O2, depending on which side of the fence you sit. Black in this instance is not supposed to be good, and this is where I have been learning the habit of driving to the mirror (as little black smoke coming out as possible on the long hills in the mountains, at elevation). Apparently if one had a pyro gauge hooked up, the exhaust gas temperatures in a N/A 3B belching black up a long grind on a highway would cause heart palpitations...

So, I take the above to mean that diesel exhaust color is an indicator of the completeness of combustion. The color indicates if the engine is cold, warm or hot.

Perhaps incomplete combustion in non-electronic Toyota diesels (whether O2/over fuelling, or tempurature induced) could be summed up this way?

Cold = White (or blue to the color challenged like me)

Warm = Whitey/Blue/Black depending on load and amount of fuel delivered

Hot = Black

I say color challenged because my 100,000km 13BT burns what looks to me to be blue till operating temperature, and then black after that. Blue is supposed to mean oil burning (isn't that what diesels burn??) however when I changed my oil at 6000kms (odo read 5000 but I forgot to take into account 20% due to the 35x10.5R16's) the oil level had not budged from my first oil change with this truck.

Fuj, hook your glows up to a momentary switch. Being summer, and a higher compression engine then a 3B I would be suprised if you need to glow at all. If it does cough use the momentary and give it a 5-10 seconds or so (probably when the cough will go away). I have to glow my BJ42 even in the dead of summer, for the first start of the day. After that, I do not touch the glow system all day. In the winter I have to glow it every time, and I have learned to cylce the system (manual switch) on those cold days.

(edit) Oh, and Fuj, there is not reason you can not go with another glowplug if you want. I do not recall the plug number used on your 1HZ, however the 3B's have either a 24V-20.3V plug for the older manual glow systems, or a 24V-14V for the new "superglow" systems. The 24V-14V would be more fragile (though faster response) if used on a manual system.

With the BJ74 13BT direct injection engine all I have to do is touch the starter, though I do have to use the idle up (in cab throttle knob) everytime I start it to smooth out the idle. This seems to be consistant with every 13BT I have seen.

Regards

gb
 
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A lot of good info. I agree with the dude. Our diesel here in North America sucks big time.

In all my diesel rigs I use 8ozs of Stanadyne in every tank along with 4ozs of Amsoil cetane booster, and 4ozs of Amsoil diesel additive.

As for oil I use synthetic only. Mobil DELVAC one in my older engines, and Amsoil heavy duty diesel in my '01 VW Jetta.

I agree with the importance of proper fuel filtration, but let's not forget proper oil filtration. I use Amsoil bypass filters in my rigs too. A normal oil filter filters to around 10-20 microns, an Amsoil bypass filters to less than one!

I change my oil every 10,000 miles. Between that I change the normal oil filters every 3000, and the bypass every 10,000.

I have oil analysis that proves those are good numbers for me to go with.


TB :cheers:
 
Jonathan_Ferguson said:
Diesel starts to Freeze from 8 degrees Celcius. :eek: Only ever use an Additive when Alpine/Winter Diesel is'nt availible. :bounce:

Uh, I think this is definitely a misprint. :) Taken from Shell Canada's website:

Using these heavier components does help minimize one disadvantage of paraffins, their inherent waxiness. At low temperatures, paraffins provide essential cetane, but their wax content tends to solidify, plugging fuel filters.

The temperature at which wax crystals form in diesel fuel is called its cloud point and, obviously, the lower the cloud point the better for cold-weather operation. Some diesel fuels cloud at temperatures as high as minus 7°C, but Shell assures a cloud point that meets Canadian General Standards Board specifications, which are based on different weather zones across Canada.


Shell's website seems to be a good informative site on diesel fuels. But, I'm a newbie to this diesel thing so it might be old basic info for most of you. Either way, here it is if you haven't visited it already.

http://www.shel.ca/code/motoring/encyclopedia/diesel/diesel.html

Cheers!
 
How's it going Stone man?

I was running high concentratoins of bio this past winter. Man that stuff gells at WAY TOO HIGH a temp.


TB
 
Hey, TB...going okay. Sheldon and I went fishing the other day and bonked some sockeyes for the freezer, and I also managed to bag a red spring (kings to you folks down South)...so it's not going too badly. How about yourself? Plenty of beer in the shop for you to sample...when are you coming up?

I enjoyed reading the interesting little tidbits in that Shell website...especially how some people have fueled diesels with coal dust. Being new to this whole diesel thing myself, I get a real kick out of telling others who also have no idea about diesels little tidbits like that and seeing their reaction. :D
 
Hey, looks like you are a phising phool! Nice shot O dem phishies.

Ya I need to come up there. I'll have to talk with Shel.



TB
 
I run Amsoil heavy duty synthetic in my newer diesels, and Mobil Delvac One in my older diesels. As for the research that I have done these two oils are the best. I'd go with Mobil Delvac (heavy duty truck oil) diesel oil were I you.

I'd install an Amsoil bypass oil filter in line too.

TB
 
The wrong oil is better than no oil. :D
Run Diesel oil. If it says "API Service Category CI-4 for diesels" or something to that effect, it's
good for diesel. Alot of oils for cars are dual spec and meet the API Service Category CI-4
spec. Just read the labels.
 
15W40 Shell rottella T semi-syn or Mobil 1 or Amsoil full syns are all good choices. I run the 15-40 year round with -35*C in the winter up +35*C in the summer.

I use the Shell in the 3B becuase of the IDI and the amount of soot

The Duramax anf HJ61 get the mobil and amsoil respectively.

The last time I checked the amsoil is not API approved but does meet the API standards
 

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