desmog removal 86FJ60

[Elbert]

Ok got a couple of questions. I know this topic has been discussed at some length but here goes.
1986 FJ60 2F engine. "stock"

Truck has the air-rail, air-pump, egr valve....all of which I want to remove. I can see how to get the air rail off but I'm sure there will be some rust issues. ON the air pump I plan to replace that with an idler pulley. I can follow how to remove the hoses and the egr valve and pipes.

1) how hard to get EGR cooler removed?

2) what are you plugging the hole in the manifold where the EGR connected? I assume it would be good to get a gasket and have a mchine shop fab up a couple of "blanks" in the same dimisions as the gasket and use this as block-of-plate?

3) I guessin you get a little creative on the PCV hose routing where it use to connect to the EGR system?

4) I have no converter anymore and I'll be removing the EGR pipes and whatever else. Does it make sense to attach the catalyitic converter temp sensor to the exhaust? My guess is no but ?

5) I will also have to figure out some of the wiring and vaccume lines issues, I've ordered the manuals and expect them next week. I did see a comment about grounding the solonoid at the carb?

6) any advice would be apprciated.... looks like the air rail and the egr cooler might be the biggest challenge to remove.

 

[ellington12]

desmog

hello,

i applaud your willingness to undertake the "desmogging" process. i'm out in california and just had to go through the rigorous california SMOG test. i failed the first time through due to a bad smog pump check valve. i'd love to ditch my converter and get some headers to free up the exhaust...but alas, california won't allow it.

since my FJ60 is bone stock with all of the pollution control systems intact and fully functioning, i can't give you any first hand advice about how to "desmog" a vehicle. (i can however tell you how to get your rig to pass an emissions test.) what i can offer you is a word of caution.

i'm a mechanic by trade and the FJ60 has one of the most complicated smog control systems i've literally ever seen. working on these things can be a real PIA...it can be however a labor of love.

i know you said you ordered the manuals; be sure to have the emissions control manual and read it closely...know it like the back of your hand. be very careful of any kind of vacuum leaks; these engines are very sensitive to any kind of vacuum leak and or false air getting into the intake. if you remove the somg pump rail at the intake manifold, be sure you plug the holes and be sure they're airtight. this is pretty much true for any orifice that connects to the intake in any way.

if you haven't already, check out www.sor.com. they've got headers and weber carbs, plus a cool looking smog pump idler. anything you can do to help the engine breathe will give you more performance. you can also run the highest octane gas you can find and then advance your timing just to the point where your engine is on the verge of pinging. as an aside, the EGR system helps to cool the combustion chamber which may help should you chose to run advanced timing.

i don't know if any of this helps but do read the manuals closely before starting your desmog.

keep us posted on how you proceed.

 

[FJ40Jim]

1) how hard to get EGR cooler removed?

Not hard. two somewhat rusty bolts. Use your 14MM 6point socket and long ratchet to crack them loose. Once they come loose, they spin right out.

2) what are you plugging the hole in the manifold where the EGR connected? I assume it would be good to get a gasket and have a mchine shop fab up a couple of "blanks" in the same dimisions as the gasket and use this as block-of-plate?

I prefer to put a coin of 1" bar stock in the hole and MIG around it. but that requires removal of the manifolds.

Yes, you can have a block off plate made. but note how the pipe pilots up into the manifold. The pilot helps align the gasket and protects the gasket from direct exposure to exhaust heat and pulsation. A flat block off plate doesn't work so well at holding the gasket in place. If possible, machine the plug to have a raised pilot in the center, like the original pipe.

I just cut the end off the pipe, flatten, weld shut. Then bolt it back on w/a new gasket. Not pretty, but due to the location it's invisible.

3) I guessin you get a little creative on the PCV hose routing where it use to connect to the EGR system?

The PCV hose connects to the intake manifold, as does the EGR. Cut the EGR tube off, weld shut, grind smooth, paint grey. It's now invisible.

See this link for pics.

4) I have no converter anymore and I'll be removing the EGR pipes and whatever else. Does it make sense to attach the catalyitic converter temp sensor to the exhaust? My guess is no but ?

No, it is not needed with the AIR system removed.

5) I will also have to figure out some of the wiring and vaccume lines issues, I've ordered the manuals and expect them next week. I did see a comment about grounding the solonoid at the carb?

Yes, the wiring and vac is the critical part.

See desmog schematic
and desmog drawing.

6) any advice would be apprciated.... looks like the air rail and the egr cooler might be the biggest challenge to remove.

Based on what I've seen in the shop, getting the vac & electrical systems operating better than stock is the difficult part. Any moron can tear all the vacuum hoses off the engine, disabling the decel, vac advance, dist cap breather,AC idle up, PCV, etc. in the process.

Hopefully you are not just any moron!

 

[FJ40Jim]

be very careful of any kind of vacuum leaks; these engines are very sensitive to any kind of vacuum leak and or false air getting into the intake. if you remove the somg pump rail at the intake manifold, be sure you plug the holes and be sure they're airtight. this is pretty much true for any orifice that connects to the intake in any way.

Where the AIR rail connects to the head, is that a potential vacuum leak when the rail is removed?

 

[Elbert]

Thanks for the input. I have to admit I'm new to toyotas as far as working on them, I did own a 97 tacoma for a couple of years and it was a great little truck.
In my former life I played mechanic for a few years in a GM shop...alomost 20 yrs ago now. Maybe now I've gotten where I choose my battles as far as what I want to work on myself and what I pay someone else to do. Of course time/money/ and other factors play into that now.

I live where we don't have inspectons or smog checks, so maybe that's good depedning on what your view is. So my intent here is to get rid of as much "crap" under the hood as reaonably possible.

I'm no expert but I'm willnig to learn. I'll have to devote some time to reviewing the manuals, I did order an emissions manual too. Since I've only had this truck for a few months I'm still learning about different aspects of it and also discovering what the previous owner did or did not do. I do have a friend who is a toyota dealer mechanic so I'm sure I can run some questions by him, but again the land cruisers seem to be unique and of limited production runs, so it s a given that there are not to many 86 models running around, at least not in my area.

My plan of attack will be to remove the physical items, once I get my idler pulley, while retaining the vaccum lines and electrical. THen once I get the hardware off...I'll start to work the vaccum lines and electrical issues. While taking some pictures of the current layout and making some notes.

 

[ellington12]

...sorry i mispoke. the AIR ports in the head won't really be a vacuum leak per se but an exhaust leak. i would still plug the holes...i wouldn't want exhaust leaks that close to my exhaust valves. sorry about the confusion...

 

[Beck's Bier]

Im doing the same exact thing to my '85 60, elbert, I hope its ok if I shoot a couple questions your way from time to time. Also, this may be a really stupid and elementary statement however Im having a lot of trouble reading the vacuum schematics and desmoging procedure from the tech links. Im sure theyre clear and its just me but something must not be getting through to my head...for example, the adv., egr, fuel cut ports and primary advance bracket, is that located between the valve cover and the carb? This vac/electrical system is def a test of a LC enthusiast's patients. But its a challenge a poor college student is willing to take. To the point Any help to a 2F noobie would be GREATLY appreciated...

Thanks,
Sean

 

[Elbert]

Sean,

I'm new to the Land Cruiser world myself. I don't have a good handle on all the small vaccum operated components and emissions controls, I'll be learning along the way. I've not yet started on the physical removal of the parts yet, other than to modify my exhaust system. I just found out that I need a new P/s pump and I'm waiting to get a idler pulley to replace the smog pump. So once I acquire these parts I'll be living under the hood and in the manual for a while I'm sure. I'll be glad to share what little I know or learn.

I'm sure one of the "regulars" would know the answer to your question. I expect to have access to the shop manuals this week. I'm really new to this vehicle, having only owned one now for about two months or so.

 

[Mat60]

Toyota sells the brass plugs needed to plug the air rail.... I've got the part # somewhere... I'll have a look....

 

[Elbert]

I'd be interested in the part number if you have it. I have bought some 1/4 inch "pipe plugs," but I've not yet removed the air rail so I'm confident they will work, but they sure do look like they would. I have two kinds one is steel and the other brass, both have a raised "square" head.

I believe there are some 1/4 pipe plugs with a recessed allen head... but not able to find any locally.

 

[Beck's Bier]

as for the idler pulley would it be ok to just by-pass buying the pulley via a small belt?

 

[FJ40Jim]

I'd be interested in the part number if you have it. I have bought some 1/4 inch "pipe plugs," but I've not yet removed the air rail so I'm confident they will work, but they sure do look like they would. I have two kinds one is steel and the other brass, both have a raised "square" head.
I believe there are some 1/4 pipe plugs with a recessed allen head... but not able to find any locally.

The allen head type is required because the square head will not be turnable as the plug gets down into the recess in the head.

PM me to buy a set of 6.

 

[FJ40Jim]

as for the idler pulley would it be ok to just by-pass buying the pulley via a small belt?

The idler pulley is a bit of a misnomer. It is actually a tensioner pulley. The belt in question goes around the crankshaft and waterpump, two pulleys that are definitely not adjustable on a 2F. A third, adjustable pulley is required to tension the belt. That is the AP in stock config, or the AP idler on a desmogged engine.

 

[Elbert]

The allen head type is required because the square head will not be turnable as the plug gets down into the recess in the head.

PM me to buy a set of 6.

I should have said I'm not confident they will work until I get the air rail off. I was down at Home Depot looking for the recessed Allen type the other day. Of course they did not have them. I discussed the very reason about the "plug" bottoming out in the hole and not being able to turn the plug with a square head.

Since I've not removed one of these I knnew there might be some little issues.... seems like you get that kind of stuff the first go-around.

 

[Mat60]

brass plugs

toyota part # 90340-14001.
x6 for a 2f (only 4 for a 3f)
Jim knows his stuff. Do what he says.

 

[soggy60]

As for vacuum hose, as I removed a 'gizmo' (EGR Modulator, for example - on side of air cleaner housing), I followed the hose to the metal 'spaghetti cluster' and put a little 'vac cap' on the nipple. the 'vac caps' can be had at local auto parts discounter: they're like 5 to a box for about 2 bucks....

As for the 'idler': I just gutted smog pump (failing anyway), crutch tips to plug inlet/outlet hse nipples....

 

[toyman317]

Is it possible to put caps over the tubes that come out of the air pump to prevent crap like PS fluid from going in there?