Deleting the EGR (1 Viewer)

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Olathe, KS
Yes, I know this topic has been beaten to death, but it seems the correct information is spread amongst a half dozen threads. Plus I need to verify a few things. Maybe this thread can serve as a one-stop consolidated place for others looking to do this.

My reasoning for doing this is that I've lived with P0401/P0402 for 2 years, and the CEL is bugging the hell out of me. I live in KS, no emissions testing. So instead of throwing $2-300 worth of parts at the problem, I figure I may as well just delete the EGR altogether.

Note: this is for a 97 (OBDII)

Step 1 - I'm planning to remove the EGR valve and modulator. What about the VSV?

Step 2 - Remove all vacuum lines. Either fab up a plate or use dimes to plug the EGR pipe. Do the other smaller nipples for the vacuum lines need to be plugged somehow?

Step 3 - Use a 4.7K ohm 1/2 watt resistor to jump the ECU end of the temp sensor plug (per this thread).

One thing I've learned from this thread: It may be a good idea to NOT disconnect the battery when you add the resistor. It seems this may prevent your ECU from achieving "readiness".

So is there anything else that I need to remove/do to A) completely remove the EGR system, and B) prevent the CEL from throwing 401/402 codes?


:beer:
 
The resistor inserted is enough to make the CEL not come back after clearing all the current codes you have.

I have that inserted with the vac lines to the EGR looped off (serves to cap the lines too), and don't get the CEL since the resistor was put in.

I am interested in how much other stuff could come out if I plated off the EGR holes.
 
The resistor inserted is enough to make the CEL not come back after clearing all the current codes you have.

I have that inserted with the vac lines to the EGR looped off (serves to cap the lines too), and don't get the CEL since the resistor was put in.

I am interested in how much other stuff could come out if I plated off the EGR holes.

Good to know Jeffro. With all the existing "delete EGR" threads I've searched, there just doesn't seem to be any definitive information on the entire process for the 1fze. So hopefully some others with experience will chime in here.
 
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the 60 series section probably has a lot more info related to a 3FE, I know there are a lot of desmog threads over there, though there are differences between the 60 and 80 I suppose
 
Sorry, meant to say "EXCEPT for the 3FE" in my post. Revised to clear up that I'm running the 1fze (97).
 
Subscribed. About time to deal with this. Although in California, the county where I live does not require smog checks.
 
I have a 93 so some things will differ, but the physical removal should be the same. I ditched the valve and the associated VSV (also the Pair VSV as I did it at the same time...but you don't have that to worry about). Had I not had the engine out I would not have touched the VSVs though...too hard to get at. I got a vacuum diagram and rerouted as needed. I had to block a couple ports on the intake. I cut some block off plates with a jigsaw and a metal cutting blade. Not the preferred method but it worked. Engine in car though Id probably just throw in the resistor and turn the light off. If you have the light isn't the valve already blocked off?
 
ciao Andreone!
unfortunately in the 1fz we have to deal with ecu while you don't with the diesel, it's very simple on 1hdt engine but it doesn't work on petrol 80s
 
After I spoke with SELECTA and I looked at a picture of EGR on the forum, i have an idea. But i have not petrol engine.... Is necessary that you make a test. Measure the resistance of EGR at various temperatures and whether resistance increases or decreases with increasing temperature. There are electronic components called NTC resistor and PTC resistor. NEGATIVE TEMPERATURE COEFFICENT is NTC and PTC is POSITIVE TEMPERATURE COEFFICENT. In NTC they decrease internal resistance with increasing temperature and in PTC increases resistance to increased temperature. After understanding how EGR resistance works, you can use PTC or NTC resistance values ​​similar to EGR. PTC or NTC you will use should feel exhaust gas temperature near cap egr for sending to the ECU a similar value generated from original EGR.
 
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Andrea - as I stated in my first post, that is why I'm adding the 4.7Kohm resistor. The resistor should satisfy the ECU into not throwing an error code.
 
Andrea - I'm not asking if I should use a 4.7Kohm resistor. This has already been discussed in another thread (the one you posted in also), and determined that pretty much anything between 2Kohm and 10Kohm will prevent the 0401/0402 code. I'm going with a 4.7Kohm since this person has had good luck.

What I'm looking to clarify, per my first post, is what else can I remove besides the EGR valve, modulator, and vacuum lines. Preferably from someone that has done this on a 1fze engine.
 

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