deep cycle batteries (1 Viewer)

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So called "zero maintenance" batteries are not. You still need to pop the caps once a year and fill the cells to the mark with distilled water or snowmelt.
 
would you guys use the secondary battery posts for the winch cables?
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would you guys use the secondary battery posts for the winch cables?

Some battery manufacturers ( such as Optima) don't want you to run the winch from the side posts. In your case with the 24V winch, I'd be surprised if you draw the same current as a 12 V winch would so... maybe.
 
Some battery manufacturers ( such as Optima) don't want you to run the winch from the side posts. In your case with the 24V winch, I'd be surprised if you draw the same current as a 12 V winch would so... maybe.

sounds hopeful lowenbrau.

:)
 
The Sears DieHard Platinums are the EXACT SAME batteries as the Odyssey and cost less, and dont require shipping. There are other threads on this. In my HJ-45, I run their largest Marine Deep cycle battery which is the same as Odyssey 2150 and it cost $100 less.
 
your right on less cca and thicker plates, but i went a little over kill for electric winch.

It's precisely why you'd be best with semi deep cycle. The winch doesn't take 1000A, but it can draw a lot of power for quite some time, therefore a battery able to discharge a bit less but for longer would be better. Last summer when my starter almost fried (welded solenoid contacts), the batteries where quite appy to turn it for a couple minutes non stop (until I found a wrench to take the cable off the battery posts). Also, several years ago I burnt out an 8D (yea, that huge truck battery, about 1200CCA IIRC) in 6 months doing just that (winching logs with my partner's FJ45). Starting batteries are simply not tough enough for extended power draw.

edit, as a side note, re-did my wires last night with 1/0 awg welding cable. :hillbilly:
Excellent idea. Did you crimp or solder?
 
It's precisely why you'd be best with semi deep cycle. The winch doesn't take 1000A, but it can draw a lot of power for quite some time, therefore a battery able to discharge a bit less but for longer would be better. Last summer when my starter almost fried (welded solenoid contacts), the batteries where quite appy to turn it for a couple minutes non stop (until I found a wrench to take the cable off the battery posts). Also, several years ago I burnt out an 8D (yea, that huge truck battery, about 1200CCA IIRC) in 6 months doing just that (winching logs with my partner's FJ45). Starting batteries are simply not tough enough for extended power draw.


Excellent idea. Did you crimp or solder?

are you 24 volt?

solder and shrink tube.
 
I bought one Odyessy PC1500 Odyssey PC1500 for my truck, I'll buy another one in a couple of weeks as I run 2 batteries in my HZJ79. I paid $300 for it here in Ottawa - I actually got the trolling thunder which is the same as the auto type but with a different sticker - and I wanted the 4 posts on it for my accessories.

I haven't used this battery to winch or on a really cold day but will get some testing soon enough. I didn't want to go with the optimas as I haven't heard anything good about them.

This Odyessy is a deep cycle with cranking power - my starter really moves with this thing on it. And, my battery setup is isolated in case one is drained down.

Louis
 
yes, the 4 posts for accessories, is a very useful feature on these batteries.
 
Check out Braille batterys I am looking at the 3121. Small and very powerful some are 1/4 the size of a truck battery. I need the space for intercooler were one of the batterys are these would be perfect. :beer:
 
are you 24 volt?

solder and shrink tube.
24 v start, 12V lights and accessories.

Copper Pipe Sleeve, Insert cable, Solder, Flatten with Sledge Hammer on Vise, Drill, Shape, Resolder, Buff and Shrink Tubing ;)
 
Does anyone who is running a starter battery with a separate circuit for accessory have (even the most rudimentary) wiring diagram of that setup?
 
I ran an Exide Orbital deep cycle marine for about 6 months in my HJ with no issue, then stored the battery in my shed for ~10 months. Then, it refused to hold a charge once it was put back in service. Tried overnight trickle charging, driving long distance, etc. but the thing kept on draining out. Battery testers indicate it was good, but low. There's not a drain on my system (that I know of), nor a problem with the alternator.

So, into NAPA I went, with the bad battery. I got a $104 credit, which I applied to a $105 battery. I had to fork over a whole 88 cents to get into a Group 24 NAPA Legend 75 (Penn). BTW, all NAPA batteries used to be made by Exide, but now strictly by Penn.

The new battery seems to have fully resolved my starter motor issue, which catches and starts STRONG every try.

We shall see how it goes...
 
If you have two seperate systems, and don't crank or winch from the second system, Gels seem to be far superior when used in deep cycle type applications. 4 UPS batteries fit in one tray nicely, and have the best capacity for the size. You can not crank, or Winch, but can jump start the first system, and if the cable is small enough you can leave the cable on when winching or cranking off the first system for short periods. If you have a system where you run your second battery system into the ground, and have a good isolator, Gel is fantastic.

Garry
 
I ran an Exide Orbital deep cycle marine for about 6 months in my HJ with no issue, then stored the battery in my shed for ~10 months.
You were lucky it held a charge at all... Maybe the orbitals are a bit more forgiving...

NEVER store a lead acid battery for more than a few months (maximum 3) without recharging. I killed a nice new battery once that way. It was a warranty return that I took off the FJ40 I stopped using.

Lead acid batteries need to be maintained on a charge to last otherwise they sulphate very quickly. It's the typical failure mode for boat batteries: use in the summer, forget over the winter, next year it's dead.

Sorry for the late reply, just noticed it.
 

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