dashcam, rear view mirror power, sunroof console access

[zmf]

Hey, I'm trying to do a proper install of my dashcam because I'm sick of the cable hanging down and plugging into the cigarette lighter. I've seen a few threads here where people have taken power from the rear view mirror and used it, either for a dashcam or for a radar detector. I'd much rather do this than run the cable down the A pillar because I don't want to deal with or interfere with the airbags there.

My problem is that I can't seem to get at the wires. I've searched here and elsewhere, and poked around a bit. I found two covered screws inside the sunglasses flopdown holder thing, and that loosened up the front, but I couldn't get the rear to drop. I'm not even sure if I need to get in there to do this, but it was further than I got poking around at the plastic conduit going from the mirror to the headliner.

If there's a better thread that I'm missing, I'd love a pointer. Thanks.

 

[TonyP]

What about removing the sunglasses/overhead thing and tapping the map lights?

 

[GoISU]

The whole light / sunglass assembly will come out. It takes more force than you would think but they build these tight so they don't rattle. Inspect it closely for bolts and pull. I'm sorry I don't recall if the front or the rear will pop out but I did it twice and didn't break anything. I've broken plenty of interior plastic clips in the past but I was able to do it without breaking anything. Get a plastic trim tool to help. It'll give you great access and the assembly will unplug and drop completely out of your way.

 

[GoISU]

^^ do your interior LED bulb upgrade while you're in there too. That's the toughest location.

 

[zmf]

OK, I went in again and pulled harder. I haven't broken anything yet, but there are two long plastic arms pointing up and forward that will not go back up because I pulled them so far down. So it's stuck in this limbo state of not coming down or going back up. Probably doesn't make sense unless you've seen it, but I think those front arms are supposed to go into place first, or come out last, not the way I've done it. The rear is just not coming down, and I really don't want to break anything. I've tried pulling down and back, down and forward, down and twisting, sliding (it seems to want to slide), but it's not budging. I don't have proper trim tools (need to get a set), but poking around the back I'm not finding anything to release.

I'll give it another go soon. My wife will kill me if I break something....

@TonyP, that's a good plan, I'm just trying to get in there to get at anything.

-Z

 

[zmf]

OK, I got it. Just pull down on the rear.

For future reference:

These are the arms I was talking about. They come out last and go in first when you do it right.

Here are the holders (what are they called?) that snap in. The light blue things - the one on the right slid out, so I had to pop it out of the frame and slide it back into the assembly before putting it back.

I also put arrows on the screw holes that fasten the unit securely.

I realized that this was not what I wanted to do. The dome lights get power all the time, and I only want power on ignition. There's not much access to the mirror power here - I considered using the sunroof power, but didn't want to mess with that. I can live without an auto dimming mirror, but not without a sunroof.

The mirror wires plugs are in the black plastic housing below the headliner. It's tight, but I should be able to tap in there.

 

[GoISU]

Nailed it. Nicely done.

 

[Yossarian]

I have the exact same issue. Post up your final solution with pics if able. Worth noting is what the amperage is supplied to the dash cam from the cigarette charger? To prevent overcharging of the dash cam battery, what is supplied from other 12V sources in the vehicle?

I think a hard wired solution with a switch for power would be ideal.

 

[luke27617]

I have my camera wired to fuse box on driver side by feet which comes on with ignition. V1 is connected through computer port using SAVVY. The whole install of the camera took 10 minutes. No wire splicing or tapping, simply adding raw wire with a fuse.