Dash getting fluctuating voltage (4 Viewers)

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r71

Joined
Aug 3, 2015
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48
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Location
Atlanta
So, I got an issue. I am not getting good power to the dash. The voltage to the dash drops almost 2 volts when using the window motor. It does this at full close or full open when it sees resistance. If you read the actual voltage at the battery or the alternator, voltage is unaffected. Only the voltage to the dash is effected.

if I pull the dash fuse and feed 12v direct from the battery, its fine. Voltage stays steady and the battery gauge does not move.

AG1 on the ignition switch seems to power the fusebox and voltage does fluctuate at the ignition switch as well. On the back of the fuse box, Black/Yellow seems to feed the dash and also the wiper and the turn signal. All these do see the voltage fluctuations. I tested all the grounds in the dash by grounding directly to battery. No change.

im inclined to just use a relay and feed the dash 12v directly from battery(fused), and tap into ignition for signal.

what I've done so far:

1. Rebuilt the fusable link
2. Replaced all ground wires
3. Checked the ignition switch. Took it apart and cleaned it.


Any electric gurus out there?


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The needle position on my FJ60 original volt meter acted more like an amp meter too with different loads. It would drop varying distances depending what was running at the moment.
It didn't amount to anything - it never manifested into a problem and I drove the vehicle like that for 30 years.

As far as I could guess, its just a non-critical quirk with the vehicle
 
Yeah, if it was just the gauge it wouldn't bother me as much. The dash lights dim at the same time. I just want to be sure its not going to effect anything else. But since I tested the voltage at the battery and its fine, I guess I just answered my question. If anyone else had this problem and they fixed it, feel free to chime in.
 
So, I got an issue. I am not getting good power to the dash. The voltage to the dash drops almost 2 volts when using the window motor. It does this at full close or full open when it sees resistance. If you read the actual voltage at the battery or the alternator, voltage is unaffected. Only the voltage to the dash is effected.

if I pull the dash fuse and feed 12v direct from the battery, its fine. Voltage stays steady and the battery gauge does not move.

AG1 on the ignition switch seems to power the fusebox and voltage does fluctuate at the ignition switch as well. On the back of the fuse box, Black/Yellow seems to feed the dash and also the wiper and the turn signal. All these do see the voltage fluctuations. I tested all the grounds in the dash by grounding directly to battery. No change.

im inclined to just use a relay and feed the dash 12v directly from battery(fused), and tap into ignition for signal.

what I've done so far:

1. Rebuilt the fusable link
2. Replaced all ground wires
3. Checked the ignition switch. Took it apart and cleaned it.


Any electric gurus out there?


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- what is the RED ⭕ mean around the
10ga Primary Black w/ Yellow Tracer stripe IGN. KEY ON solder joint-point back side of your OEM TR rotary ?


- What is the
from-location on the other end now fine with 12v ? : if I pull the dash fuse and feed 12v direct from the battery, its fine. Voltage stays steady and the battery gauge does not move.


- more then 1+ additional ( :wrench: same very A+ status-level :wrench: ) tech pics of the above , posted below would help much here .....


thanks


.



 

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