Damn, hatch rust got me.

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Doc

Joined
Apr 26, 2004
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Location
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What started out as a mild $300 rust repair has become a major job. After the seal and window were removed the lower lip of the window crumbled away. Now new metal has to be welded in, or I have to source a new gate.

*WARNING TO OTHERS* You could not even see the rust from the outside of the truck when I took it in. The only reason I noticed it was because the rear hatch handle froze up and I had to take off the interior plastic trim to have a look.

*GO HOME AND USE A PUTTY KNIFE TO PRY UP THE RUBBER SEAL AND LOOK FOR RUST*

I'm now facing a major repair bill.

If anyone has a spare hatch in good condition, PM me. Please.

Pics will be up tonight.
 
stuck in GA said:
Yeah i have to small rust spots on my hatch as well. Sounds a lot worse than yours. Maybe i should get it fixed?!

Maybe so. :rolleyes:
 
stuck in GA said:
Yeah i have to small rust spots on my hatch as well. Sounds a lot worse than yours. Maybe i should get it fixed?!


But I thought you got a pristine 96 for only 12K?
 
you mean that literally, there was no indication at all of rust visible from the outside?
nothing?

could you please elaborate a bit on the best way to check this, without damaging the rubber?
 
StuckinGA- sounds like yours is WAY far gone, might just want to grab the KY now.

E9999- Yes, there was literally zero visable rust on the outside of the truck. I only noticed it when I took of the interior trim panel to look at the latch. I put the hatch in the up position, and first noticed it along the metal on the inside of the pinch weld. I then used a screw driver to pry up the edge of the rubber seal and rust flakes came pouring out. Prying up the edge of the seal is not going to damage anything, as long as you don't get crazy. It's just laying against the metal, not glued or anything. You can pry up the inside edge very easily.

I'm going to have the body shop fill in the rest of the pinch weld while they are in there.

Bastard!
 
I'm going to be dealing with this fairly soon. From this and the other threads, it seems people are generally going to body shops to have the glass removed / reinstalled. Should I assume this is because the job is too difficult to DIY?
 
$250 shipping?! Uick.

I'll just have them weld in new metal for that much!
 
Actually, they also have a white one, $225 for the whole lift gate. It'd be worth the shipping if I didn't have to paint it....


They're out checking the donor for rust as we speak.
 
stuck in GA said:
Yeah i have to small rust spots on my hatch as well. Sounds a lot worse than yours. Maybe i should get it fixed?!

Nah....don't worry about it. :rolleyes: Man you got ripped off! :flipoff2:
 
Man im in deep. Im relatively new to the cruiser world and these things can really rust damn. My hatch has rust spots and under my spoiler and probably under my rack. I got to figure out how to stop it. I knew old cruisers like expecialy 60 series rust quick but i didn't think 80's would!?
 
If you had a 60 it'd be a pile of rusted bits by now. 80's are much more impervious to rust, but any exposed metal surface will rust. Old vehicles tend to have experienced more wear, and more opportunity for making a bare spot than a newer vehicle would.

Keep on top of the rust as much as you can and your 80 will out live you.

I'm fighting a loosing battle with my 60 series. I'll just drive it into the ground, the rust is too far gone to make repairs an option at this point.
 
I hear you Doc. I took the plastic cover off the inside upper tail gate Sunday to replace my handle, which was very rusty. I was surprised it still worked. Fortunately, there was no rust inside or around the areas you had mentioned. I will try to post a pic of the rusted handle if I can get my camera working.
 
stuck in GA said:
Man im in deep. Im relatively new to the cruiser world.....

EDIT...Least stupid thing you've posted
 
Last edited:
Doc,

Depending on the expense of remove/reset the rear window, it sounds like you have stumbled across another preventative maintenance item........

If cost effective for window labor, and you having seem the inside, if one were to go all the way in, is there any way to seal the "pinched lip" of metal with silicone (one with no rust)? Then install new rubber with window? Sounds like there may a lot more rust hiding out there than anyone realizes, as this one spot in addition to roof rack is the only sources of potential problems for non-salt exposed vehicles...

What is your $.02?
 
I got a new used upper from a salvage yard and tried to put the glass in myself... Bad idea. I had many pieces to sweep up. The old upper had the same problem as many have. slight signs of rust and when the glass was removed the entire bottom of the window channel was gone. I had the glass guy load up on the sealant when HE put the new glass in. He mentioned that it was a very common problem for the 80 series especially after havig glass replaced as many inexperienced glass guys don't seal the exterior gaskets. :mad:
 
Since this rust seems to be a production problem has anyone thought about seeing what Toyota says. If enough people have the rust and the problem is from a faulty pinch seal there may be actions that could be taken.
 
Good luck with that one, Mooker.

I think every vehicle has spots here or there that after 8-14 years would show up.

There is no way a manufacturer could or should be held liable for anything that old.
 
Pictures suck. The rust is worse than it appears. There is nearly no metal left in the one large spot, and it starting on the right side as well.

P1250009(1).jpg


P1250010.jpg
 
Cruisin'Carolina said:
What is your $.02?

I'm having the body shop fill the seam with body filler.

Personally I'd go with something more durable then silicone for the seam. If you're good with fiberglass it might be the best option. Ok, welding the damn thing shut would be the best option... but you want something permenant in the crease. 'cause you can't really check up on it very easily.
 

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