Dads 1971 FJ40 Swap

[jtaco1]

I have a build thread going over on our local board, but figured throw it over here to see what you guys think.

Starting off with a 1971 FJ40 that my dad and I got back in the Fall of 2001. All original with the F engine, three speed transmission on the column and vacuum operated transfer case. Axles were drum brakes front and rear with 4.10 gearing.

We tore it apart and did a frame on restoration with new interior pieces, some mechanical work, very minor body work since th ebody was in great shape and put a paint job on it. We swapped in a set of 3.73 gears out of a FJ55 to help on the highway as this rig will likely never see dirt. Also swapped in a set of front disck brakes and knuckles from a FJ62.

The engine was tired and instead of rebuilding it, we decided to do a swap. Our 1970 FJ40 has a SBC and 4 speed, but we wanted something a little different. We picked up a 97 4.3 V6, along with a stand alone Painless Harness, stock computer, headers, 4wd and 2wd oil pans, and flywheel to bolt it to the TH350. We sent the computer to Jim's Performance to work his magic with what we planned to run.
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/Engine61.jpg"][/URL]
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/Engine31.jpg"][/URL]
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/Engine21.jpg"][/URL]
The remote oil filter setup was cut, so I picked up this fitting at the dealer to remove the remote oil filter setup and put the filter on the block, as with V8's.
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/125560761.jpg"][/URL]
For the transmission we had a local transmission builder put a TH350 togeter with the appropriate output shaft and adapter that we go from Advance Adapters. For the transfer case, I had a lever shifted 3 speed one out of a 73 FJ40 that I had parted out many years ago that was in good shape and tore it down to mate to the TH350.
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/T-case1.jpg"][/URL]
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/T-case2.jpg"][/URL]
So far I have only had a few hours to work on it in the evening when the family goes to bed and this is where it currently stands with the interior pulled, along with the bib, radiator, exhaust, and some other miscellaneous parts which left me with this
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/interiorout.jpg"][/URL]
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/enginebay1.jpg"][/URL]
The remainder of the swap will include replacement of the steering column with on out of the previously mentioned 73 FJ40 as it is smaller and a little more modern, which will be coupled with a Saginaw power steering setup.

Made a little progress more progress.
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/Enginecomingout2.jpg"][/URL]
Which lead to this
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/engineout.jpg"][/URL]
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/tranny-t-case.jpg"][/URL]
This engine is a pig and fought me a little coming out, but I left with this
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/emptyenginebay.jpg"][/URL]

Frame rails ready to go, just waiting on my abrasives order from Lehigh Abrasives to come in to do final cleanup.
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/cleanframerails.jpg"][/URL]
All steering is also gone as well and ready for install of new column.
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/nosteeringinterior.jpg"][/URL]

Made some more progress. Was cutting out the frame scab plates for the motor mounts and the plasma cutter decided it was done and blew the circuit board, but luckily I had just finished cutting. New board came in and am back in business. Was able to set up the motor mounts with hard tacks to test the engine fitment. Placement is set so that the 4.3 can be pulled and a 5.3 can be installed without changing the mounts or driveshafts.
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/MotorMountstacked.jpg"][/URL]
Got the Saginaw box mounted into place. Mounted it low and back to get the upper two bolts in the frame and not have to notch the front bumper. Everything clears great so far and will weld out once I test fit the engine.
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/Steeringboxtemp.jpg"][/URL]
Next got the steering colum firewall plate cut and installed.
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/Steeringfirewallplate.jpg"][/URL]
Then slid the 1973 vintage column in after a few cuts to get it where I want it and mocked up the Borgeson collapsable steering shaft, which should clear the motor mount and exhaust manifolds nicely - will confirm when I test fit the motor next.
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/Steeringshaftmockup.jpg"][/URL]
Shot of the new steering column setup mocked up
[URL="http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/jtgraup/73steeringcolumnmockup.jpg"][/URL]
I called it a night shortly after having a hot weld dingle berry fall into my ear canal while welding upside down, made for some interesting noises, but luckily didn't get to my ear drum.

That brings it up to date. I have a mini harness coming from Coolerman to plug and play the steering column turn signal assembly into the factory harness - should make for a painless install.

 

[copper204]

Subscribed.. This is the same thing we plan on for my 71.. If I keep it

 

[jtaco1]

Got the motor placed and everything looks like it will clear nicely. Need to move one of the O2 sensors as it is up against the motor mount on the frame, but not a big deal. Steering shaft should clear as well. Wanted to finish off the steering and a few of the other details, but got to late to use the noisier tools as I didn't want to wake the neighbors.

 

[lrowe_csp]

Great thread, and with gas hitting $4 in many places, be interesting to see what power/economy mix you get out of that vortec.

 

[40's rock]

Are you using a stock toyota transmission? Did you only have the two engine mounts?
I'm working on mine and the shifter is 4" forward with the engine pushed all the way back. Also, no place for any additional mounts on the AA bell housing

 

[jtaco1]

Not using the Toyota transmission, using a TH350 automatic and yes only the two mounts at the engine. Once I bolt the transmission to the 3 speed tcase and bolt to the motor, there will be another crossmember that goes under the tranny/transfer adapter.

The trans shifter will bolt to the tail of the trans as it will be a Lokar that mimics a 5 speed shifter and allows several mounting positions. Hoping the transfer shifter will end up near the stock location or I will make it.

 

[jtaco1]

Finalized the steering based upon the motor placement and welded that out along with the motor mounts. Next was to assemblt the tranny/transfer case setup. Using a TH350 transmission adpaterd to the stock 3 speed transfercase with an Advance Adapters adapter. Also using their shifter relocation bracket and front output flange to clear the transmission pan.

Working on the shifter linkage next and then bolt to the motor and swing into the chassis to figure out the crossmember support.

 

[jtaco1]

Transmission and transfer case are ready to go with shift linkage, O2 sensor rotated 180 degrees to clear the motor mount, headers installed with new hardware and gaskets, along with steering installed.

Sent the engine harness to Jim's Performance on Monday and he nearly has it completed. The harness was a bit hacked up and Jim discovered some "Hidden Treasures" that he will be addressing in the harness, removing unnecessary wires, testing it with the computer we are using, and labeling everything for simple wiring. Probably have it back Thrusday or Friday. Jim has been excellent to work with.

 

[78fj40mg]

 

[jtaco1]

Back from vacation, things have settled down, and back to working on the FJ40. When we got the motor setup, it came with a Painless Performance engine harness setup that was modified to run in a buggy.

Looked great at first glance, but once I started tearing into it, I found some issues and decided to send it to Jim's Performance, he also flashed the computer. He found some additional issues.

Jim fixed the harness up, removed a number of the wires not needed, loomed and labeled all connections, made it a simple 2-3 wire hookup, tested it, and shipped it back to me at a rediculously great price and in about a day. Here is what I got back

Also ordered a number of parts from Summit Racing including an E8248 in-line fuel pump, 10 and 100 micron Holley fuel filters with fittings, trans cooler lines, kickdown/detent cable, flywheel cover, and a Lokar 16" transmission shifter. Everything came in the next day. Got the shifter setup last night

Will take the shifter portion off to get the drivetrain in place where needed then finalize.

Located my 12 volt switched wire to hook the alternator sense wire into. Then moved onto taking a look at the transmission crossmember we got from Advance Adapters - not liking how things are working out with it as hardware is not right for the mount or bosses and the crossmember itself looks like it may be a pain in the ass to R+R and kill any kind of ground clearance. Looking at possibly building one to function a little better.

 

[jtaco1]

Took a little break, but am now back to working on it. Ended up making a brace that goes between the TH350 tail housing and AA mount to minimize movement and keep the assembly together, but ended up stripping one of the bolt holes in the tail housing. Ended up drilling both of the bolt holes out and installing heli-coils for 3/8" studs and am good to go now.

Getting ready to assemble the fuel pump and filter fittings, but not sure which sealant to use so they don't leak as they are NPT fittings and require something. Thoughts are to use Permatex Thread Sealer, either High Performance (#56521) or High Temperature (#59214). I am leaning towards the High Temperature since the spec sheet for it says that it works with fuel, where as the High Performance does not, but have read that both work. Thoughts??

Hoping to assemble the drivetrain this weekend and slide it into place so I cam get the t-case crossmember knocked out and then start wiring and plumbing.

 

[jtaco1]

Got a few hours in on the FJ40 yesterday. Went to swing the engine in front of the transmission and noticed the drivers side exhaust joint was going to interfere with the ear of the transmission, so I had to remove an unused mount hole nad some of the ear to get it to clear and it bolted up with out issue and the torque convertor still turns, so it was seeted properly

Then found the balance point of the drivetrain, which worked out quite well for swinging it in with my wife - she did a great job pushing the motor in and lowering it will I guided it, while being 8 months pregnant, she slept the rest fo the afternoon

Got the engine bolted down the moved onto the crossmember. We got the crossmemebr kit from Advance Adapters that mounts to the adapter, but I did not like how they designed it to mount to the frame - mounts would have hung down way to low, especially on the passenger side. Little bit of tube got me this

Will be cutting out tabs to mount it to the frame rails this week. Once done, ground clearance will still be good, plan to modify the factory skid to work once done.

Based upon the engine location, I will probably have to dog leg the transfer case shifter

 

[TOBASH]

I'm curious. Why did you not use a 700R4 tranny with the overdrive?

Your engine woulda' mated perfect to it, and it can also be adapted to fit a LandCruiser. You also would not need to deal with the transmission downshift issues as the engine used a mechanical unit and the MV35 tranny used a vacuum unit IIRC.

I like the work you are doing, so this is just a question and not a criticism.

Best,

T

 

[jtaco1]

We went with the TH350 for simplicity more than anything. The motor came out of a buggy that had the same transmission behind it so it was set up for it. With the 3.73 gears in the diffs, we should have a great street cruising speed without running too high of RPM's. It is also slightly shorter. We have a TH350 behind a SBC in one of our other vehicles and it works well for what it is used for.

For the downshift issue, I have the detent cable installed and will be playing with it to get it where we want, but not a big deal to downshift - this FJ40 is being built as a weekend driver more than anything else.

Not sure if it answers your question.

 

[jtaco1]

Ran into a slight fitment issue between the drivers side header and the steering shaft. To get the transmission more centered and out fo the frame rail, I have to slide the assembly off centerline, but the front cylinder tube of the header it wanting to be in the same place as the steering shaft. Looked at putting another joint in the shaft, but not going to get me what I need, so I am going to modify the header tube to go out around the steering shaft, which will get me what I need, just make for a little bit of extra work to pull the steering or motor down the road.

Summit dropped the ball on getting me the fuel filters that I wanted, so I am going to go with factory GM parts - should work fine considering the millions of GM vehicles running around with the same parts.

 

[jtaco1]

Exhaust J-bends came in for modifying the header as did the remainder of the fuel components other than the line, which I will get once everything is laid out. Now I just need to find some time to get in the shop.

 

[jtaco1]

Haven't touched this project since late Nevember as we were getting ready for this little guy

Decided to take today off so that I could get some work done. Was able to finish off the transmission crossmember after sliding the drivetrain to the drivers side a little more.

Which left the transfer case shifter in the perfect spot

By moving the drivetrain over more to the drivers side, I have major interference between the header and steering shaft. Was going to cut the exhaust and re-route, but not going to be able to weld the back side of the tube because of how the tubes merge. So I am going to get another steering joint and heim joint to make the shaft clear.

Also got the battery tray relocated up and over towards the fender. Decided to catch the inside edge of the fender as part of the mount and two tubes down to the frame - Nice and strong.

Also got the throttle cable started.

Remaining major tasks include:
-Run wiring harness
-Plum fuel pump and return
-Finish steering
-Build driveshafts
-Plumb heater
-Install and wire guages
-Install automatic shifter
-Cut transmission hump for shifters
-Install radiator
-Fill fluids

 

[jtaco1]

My dad come over yesterday and lended a hand and we got quit a bit done. We started out with the steering by adding a 3/4" heim joint and additional steering joint. Everything clears the frame and headers.

Next we moved on to mounting the Ron Davis radiator and installed the front bib to check clearance.

Clearance to the motor looks like this

A little too tight for the mechanical fan due to having to set the radiator back a littl more than we wanted to clear the headlight buckets. We will be running an electric fan.
Then modified the gas pedal to accept the Chevy throttle cable. Looks a little funky, but works perfect.

Also built the mount for the fuel filter, got the motor mounts torqued down, torque convertor bolts installed, and few other smaller things done.

Here is what it looks like with the bib back on

and all buttoned back up

 

[jtaco1]

Didn't like how the radiator was packaging along with the fan, so sold the previous radiator setup and picked up a replacement 4 row aluminum radiator from Champion that bolts into the factory mount. Very nice looking radiator and should be more than adequate for this setup. Did a quick mockup and have 0.5" - 0.75" clearance between the radiator and clutch on the mechanical fan. Cleaned up the stock radiator mount, including removing broken hardware, re-tapped all bolt holes, and shot it with paint while the weather was nice this weekend. Hoping to mock up the fan shroud next and be ready to knock out the radiator hoses next.

 

[jtaco1]

New radiator mocked up - should work out nicely.