Cylinder Head Rebuild Checklist

[LXCRSR]

I am pulling the cylinder head off my '82 2F in order to get the corroded in plugs removed from where the injection nozzles should reside. While it is off I plan to have the following done:

1. Hot tanked
2. Magnafluxed (to check for cracked head)
3. Decked
4. Valve Stem Seals replaced
5. Weep Hole Plug removed, tapped, and threaded plug installed.

I figure I am going to need the following:

1. OEM Exhaust Manifold (only one since the manifolds will also have been decked)
2. OEM Exhaust Donut Gasket
3. Valve Cover Gasket (Aftermarket due to emergency need)
4. OEM Valve Cover Seals
5. OEM Valve Stem Seals
6. OEM Water Outlet Gasket

Am I missing anything?

Should I consider any other work while it is apart?

I want to make sure I get this right the first time.

How many Valve Stem Gaskets are needed? 12? As a reference, I looked at SOR and they show two sizes available, steel and large steel type. Which is the correct one for me to order from Cdan?

Do I need to drain the block of coolant when removing the cylinder head or only the radiator?

And one more, will I need to adjust the valves once it is reassembled?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[FJ40Jim]

I am pulling the cylinder head off my '82 2F. I plan to have the following done:

1. Hot tanked
2. Magnafluxed (to check for cracked head)
3. Decked
4. Valve Stem Seals replaced
5. Weep Hole Plug removed, tapped, and threaded plug installed.

Am I missing anything?
Should I consider any other work while it is apart?

4.1 Valve job

I figure I am going to need the following:

1. OEM Exhaust Manifold (only one since the manifolds will also have been decked)
2. OEM Exhaust Donut Gasket
3. Valve Cover Gasket (Aftermarket due to emergency need)
4. OEM Valve Cover Seals
5. OEM Valve Stem Seals
6. OEM Water Outlet Gasket

How many Valve Stem Gaskets are needed? 12? As a reference, I looked at SOR and they show two sizes available, steel and large steel type. Which is the correct one for me to order from Cdan?

CDan can get all the gaskets and seals in one "gasket kit for cylinder head overhaul".
OEM Catalog
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
0411261031 $247.56 $0.00 $188.15
GASKET KIT, ENGINE O

Do I need to drain the block of coolant when removing the cylinder head or only the radiator?

If you are going to re-use the coolant, then only drain it from the block.

If the coolant is being replaced w/ new, then drain the radiator, block, and open the heater lever to allow it to drain if possible.

And one more, will I need to adjust the valves once it is reassembled?

yes.

 

[LXCRSR]

Thanks Jim!

I already have everything but the head gasket and valve stem seals (wasn't originally planning on going this far, but after thinking about it, figured while I was in there...).

I will be trying to order them today.

 

[MtnTrucker]

Have you done a compression check to determine what shape your piston rings are in? Does the engine burn any oil?

Once the head is off it's pretty easy to drop the oil pan, pop the pistons out, ream and hone the cylinders, and put new piston rings & bearings in. Not as good as a full out-of-chassis rebuild but pretty easy to do. You can rent the ridge reamer, cylinder hone, and ring compressor tool from Autozone.

 

[LXCRSR]

MtnTrucker,

I have not done a compression test. The first drive on the highway, it started spitting oil out the valve cover and showed a leak in the oil pan. So it has been sitting in the garage in some state of disassembly since (only a couple of weeks). So, I also don't know if it burns oil.

I am already on thin ice with the wife for how far I am going on the engine work with a truck that wasn't supposed to need anything when I bought it. It also sounds like more than I am willing, capable, or would be allowed to do at this time.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Tom

 

[Brian in Oregon]

Buy the appropriate taps and clean out all threaded holes, particularly the exhausts. Examine them for damage.

 

[LXCRSR]

Brian,

Thanks for reminding me.

I am having the intake and exhaust manifold hot tanked and surfaced and the intake checked for cracks. all threads on the head and manifolds will be cleaned up. I will also be purchasing a M13 x 1.75 tap to clean out the threads in the block.

Anything else that I am missing?

Tom

I have also purchased all new studs, nuts, bolts and washers and will anti-sieze where appropriate.

 

[malcb]

Soak the studs and nuts with something every few days until you do the job, particularly the exhaust to downpipe.

 

[LXCRSR]

malcb,

I had that same thought and applied penetrating oil every few days for a week prior. Everything came apart without a hitch. Exhaust and intake already off and not broken bolts or studs.

Going to pull the cylinder head off tomorrow. That should be fun. My brother is going to help to make it easier.

Tom

 

[MtnTrucker]

MtnTrucker,

I am already on thin ice with the wife for how far I am going on the engine work with a truck that wasn't supposed to need anything when I bought it. It also sounds like more than I am willing, capable, or would be allowed to do at this time.

Tom

Understood, but be forewarned that on an older engine when you make the valves start sealing better you may now emphasize the worn out rings and it will start smoking more. You'll be really upset if you tear it down and then have it still smoking and fouling plugs.

Dropping the oil pan and changing the piston rings is no more technically challenging than pulling the head and reinstalling/adjusting the entire valve train. You should be able to get a pan gasket, bearings and rings for less than $100.

 

[LXCRSR]

Damn it MtnTrucker! Why are you talkin sense to me!

I will look into it tonight. What's another $80 bucks (already got the oil pan gasket) more now that I am in it up to my neck in it?

 

[Brian in Oregon]

One issue with replacing the rings....

If there is a ridge at the top of the cylinder, you won't be able to pull the pistons because the rings will hang up on the ridge.

There are ridge cutters, but if you have to resort to them, this means the cylinder is worn to the point where you might as well rebuilt the short block anyway.

Also be aware if you are gaping rings in a worn cylinder, to not gap them where the cylinder walls have the most wear. This will cause the gap to be smaller where the walls are less worn, and could cause binding if the engine runs hot, like with a heavy load on a hot day.

There's nothing wrong with doing a simple re-ring, but just pay attention to the details.

 

[FJ40Jim]

If the bores have noticeable ridge, or there is so much taper that it is necessary to gap the rings at the bottom of the bore, the bores are huffed. Re-ringing a tapered cylinder is a short-lived bandaid.

Fortunately, with only 84K miles on a late model 2F, the rings and bores are fine.

 

[LXCRSR]

FJ40 Jim,

I will see when I open it up.

As I have found with many other things related to the vehicle, the PO wasn't fully forthright in his descriptions of things. While the mileage does read 84,099, I question the true mileage of the vehicle since I have driven it 30+ miles and the it still reads 84,099.

Crossing my fingers!

And again, thanks for your input.

Tom

 

[LXCRSR]

FJ40Jim,

Forgot to ask, what is the best way to measure for a tapered cylinder?

I assume a ridge would be pretty noticeable.

Tom

 

[Brian in Oregon]

FJ40Jim,

Forgot to ask, what is the best way to measure for a tapered cylinder?

I assume a ridge would be pretty noticeable.

Tom

There are two ways to do this....

The preferred method is to use a bore gauge and check the bore at the top and bottom of the bore. Some check fore and aft and side to side in each position as well to see if the bore is oval. Some check at mid-bore as well.

An expedient, but not as precise, way to do this is to use a ring, push it in with the top of a piston so it is square to the bore, and measure the gap. Then push it down further and check the gap again, and then towards the bottom. This won't tell you how much taper there is accurately, but it will give an indication that there is taper. It cannot tell you if the bore is oval.

 

[LXCRSR]

Brian, thanks for the schooling.

I read through what is needed to do this in my FSM last night. Doesn't look too bad, but I have a question about buying rings. I have seen where there are multiple sizes of rings available, standard and then continually larger sizes (i.e. +0.010, +0.020, +0.030). Do I make the determination on what size to buy after measuring the cylinder diameter?

Tom

 

[FJ40Jim]

I have a question about buying rings. I have seen where there are multiple sizes of rings available, standard and then continually larger sizes (i.e. +0.010, +0.020, +0.030). Do I make the determination on what size to buy after measuring the cylinder diameter?

Is this a trick question?

To determine ring size, measure the bore and buy appropriate size rings.

 

[LXCRSR]

Wasn't meant to be. Apparently I am so ignorant about the matter that I am asking stupid questions.

Thanks for you patience and your willingness to answer the questions I should be asking.

Tom

 

[joeyg1973]

Check my build up link. I have a whole section on installing pistons with pictures.