CV Axles

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Joined
Mar 20, 2015
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63
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should I do them in pairs? Or, R&R only the one with the ripped inner boot? They're the original from '98.
 
Replace the boot unless it's making noise.

I'd do them as needed not in pairs unless you are upgrading, bored, or have money to burn.
 
I bought an aftermarket CV. What's so bad about them? I saw a lot of posts saying "don't use these", but didn't find any from folks who actually used them.

I replaced my left side (stripped splines), but my right side is leaking, but not making sound. The left side that I removed (with the stripped splines) has what appear to be good boots. Is it safe to pull those boots off and put them on the leaky right side?
 
I wheel harder than some.

Replaced OEM shafts for torn boots and not having a shop to do it in. Also laziness.

I went through 5 aftermarket CVs in 6 months.

One exploded.

Two were clicking pretty early on.

And two ended up binding so bad they wouldn't allow full range of movement and vibrated.
 
CVJ in Denver rebuilds Toyota LC CV with new bearings, boots and any other worn parts. They warranty the parts for life including the boots. They're $144/each after exchange. Pretty cheap compared to new Mr T. They have an excellent reputation. Thoughts? Would you do the axles seal/bearings and hub flanges?
 
CVJ in Denver rebuilds Toyota LC CV with new bearings, boots and any other worn parts. They warranty the parts for life including the boots. They're $144/each after exchange. Pretty cheap compared to new Mr T. They have an excellent reputation. Thoughts? Would you do the axles seal/bearings and hub flanges?


Im interested in this also. I have a PS boot that is starting to rip and will need replacing. I also have the thunk. Do the CV's from CVJ have work teeth? I wondering if i should replace the CV and flange? Then do the other side next year when doing the maintenance.
 
I'm pretty sure they rebuild them to 100% "as new". The local dealer here in Denver only uses them for parts and provides the lifetime warranty. That includes the labor. So, I cannot imagine they'd offer that w/o it being completely rebuilt.
 
CVJ in Denver rebuilds Toyota LC CV with new bearings, boots and any other worn parts. They warranty the parts for life including the boots. They're $144/each after exchange. Pretty cheap compared to new Mr T. They have an excellent reputation. Thoughts? Would you do the axles seal/bearings and hub flanges?

Point of clarification when I order my rack from them that was the price without Toyota boots. Toyota branded boots were an extra $80/each per.

I already had the boot kits and did them myself but it is still a VERY decent price. Its basically $140 for the labor of a rebuild which is in line with a shop charging 1.5 hours at $85/hr
 
If the CVs and the boots they install are warranted for life, should I care that they aren't Toyota branded?
 
It's odd. The Toyota dealer won't warranty new CV for life, but will on the rebuilt axles.
 
It's odd. The Toyota dealer won't warranty new CV for life, but will on the rebuilt axles.

Dealer thinking on that is if you're cheap enough to buy a rebuilt instead of a brand new one then you're not going to be getting a warranty replacement because you'll have sold the truck by then.
 
Rebuilt axle - No.

Especially considering 50+% of axle splines I have seen you could cut your hand on...

Most members complain when they are hearing clunk. Most clunk is cv spline to drive flange spline wear. Yes the drive flange is usually the softer material, but I've yet to see the cv shaft not be effected by ramp pound. Consumable item, new mating services are ideal.

New aftermarket - Why not?

I've run the WorldParts New axles in several vehicles, including my 100 and they are top notch. In fact, side by side to OEM, I would say the machining on the outside is superior and the boots and clamps are higher quality. All for approx a hundred bucks a side Canadian.

Yes I know everyone is going to jump up and down saying the quality is on the inside, but I don't see any concerns in real world testing yet and they are warrantied for life here.

No vibration, no grease leakage, no split boots, fit as well or better then OEM, spline fitment tight, warranty, wheres the argument?

Win - Win
 
I intend on taking a new hub flange up to CVJ and test fitting the hub to the shaft to pick the tightest CVs I can find.
 

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