CV angle after lift with diff drop

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Bloomer

Bloomer

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I should've paid closer attention before I started the lift installation. Anyone have pics of their CV angle at stock level? I'm curious how much angle is acceptable after installing a suspension lift? I installed OME torsion bars and have the front end lifted about 2 inches (with diff drop installed). The distance between the wheel hub center to the edge of the fender is 21.25 inches. I was targeting 21.5 inches but am waiting for additional mod installations before adjusting to final height and getting the alignment (pretty much parked until then). There's not a lot of angle on the CVs, but the boot does show some. Not sure if this is excessive and whether I need to lower the front end. I want to minimize the amount of wear on the CVs (I do a lot of highway driving). Here are pics of the CV boot. Any concerns here?



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The 100's CV's run at a 2" angle at stock. Meaning the front diff sits 2" higher than the hub. When you lift it, it goes up to 3-4" of drop. The boots (mine) are always stretched out. I just ordered a pair of long travel Tacoma boots to fit to my CV's. Hopefully this eliminates boot tearing when the front end is at full droop.

Edit:

If you have time, can you measure the inboard and outboard housing dimensions? I need to check to make sure these boots will fit over the CV housing.
 
2000UZJ said:
The 100's CV's run at a 2" angle at stock. Meaning the front diff sits 2" higher than the hub. When you lift it, it goes up to 3-4" of drop. The boots (mine) are always stretched out. I just ordered a pair of long travel Tacoma boots to fit to my CV's. Hopefully this eliminates boot tearing when the front end is at full droop. Edit: If you have time, can you measure the inboard and outboard housing dimensions? I need to check to make sure these boots will fit over the CV housing.
Click to expand...
I'm very curious as to how this works out...
 
2000UZJ said:
The 100's CV's run at a 2" angle at stock. Meaning the front diff sits 2" higher than the hub. When you lift it, it goes up to 3-4" of drop. The boots (mine) are always stretched out. I just ordered a pair of long travel Tacoma boots to fit to my CV's. Hopefully this eliminates boot tearing when the front end is at full droop.

Edit:

If you have time, can you measure the inboard and outboard housing dimensions? I need to check to make sure these boots will fit over the CV housing.
Click to expand...

I measured about 4.5 inches on my 2006. That was eyeballing with a tape measure so may be off a little.
 
Does anyone have the part number for the "Long Travel Tacoma Boots"? Might be a good idea to consider. I assume they are the same ID on both ends as the standard boot.
 
A little off topic, but related. I read in another thread that lifting front end over 21 inches (measured from center hub to fender edge) can result in the front end wandering/tracking. I'm currently at 21.25 inches and still have a 2 inch rake. I'm waiting on a rear bumper to come in. With the spare tire installed I'm thinking this will add ~350 lbs to the rear. I was planning on raising the front to 21.5 inches and hoping with the bumper I would get enough settling to result in a 1 inch rake. After reading the other thread, I am thinking I might need to lower the front end .25 inches. Anyone with Slee heavies install a rear bumper that can share how much additional settling you experienced?
 
Bloomer said:
A little off topic, but related. I read in another thread that lifting front end over 21 inches (measured from center hub to fender edge) can result in the front end wandering/tracking...
Click to expand...

The problem is caster when you lift the front. Install aftermarket UCAs and you can get the caster back.
 
RobRed said:
The problem is caster when you lift the front. Install aftermarket UCAs and you can get the caster back.
Click to expand...

I had the wander issue get worse after I lifted the truck. The shop that did the lift, did what I asked, and leveled the truck. After driving west to CA and back to CO to Slee for the rear bumper and heavies, Christo recommended dropping the front to give slight rake and help with alignment. Specifically to address caster. I'm my case the rear heavies gave it a slight rake, but with loading of gear and people, we was concerned it would level out. So we dropped the nose a bit.

He mentioned they are finalizing their production of adjustable UCAs for just this reason.... That's what I'll be doing!
 
RobRed said:
Install aftermarket UCAs and you can get the caster back.
Click to expand...

You "might" get caster back. There have been a few that were able to get caster within oem spec. But most have not. It is not a guaranty. So, don't use caster as justfication for after market UCA's. Or, wait until Slee releases his new ones. As noted above Slee's should adress the issue of caster. I will probably go that route and pull my TC arms.
 
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Slee's should fix the caster issue. All I am saying is people shouldn't go with other after market options based only on fixing caster. There are a several tradeoffs and no guarantee that caster will be in spec. The shop total chaos sent me to builds trophy trucks and they couldn't get mine in spec and said in thier experience they rarely do. They set mine up similar to the tundras and it runs great. But it isn't in spec and I would love more caster.
 
@2000UZJ did you ever try those Tacoma Long Travel boots?
 
I went with slee then nitro gear UCA and I pretty much wasted money as they are fixed caster meaning it built in the UCA but limited ball joint adjustment but anything lifted you will always be combating your alignment and it being thrown out. With my experience using those 2 arms for a limited time and tons of money and time thrown away I recommend going with the SPC which I should of done in first place.

SPC are only ones on market that can fix caster and can be adjusted. Total chaos is built off same platform as Nitro gear and the caster is built in which at the time after visiting total chaos factory I ultimately went with the nitro gear option since they are both built the same but nitro was beefier with better bushings and less maintenance over TC UCA so I avoid those with that purchase.

As for cv angles issues, I was tired of replacing my cv and/or boots every year that I ended up importing the long travel CV axels from the land down under. Wasn’t cheap but haven’t had any cv issues since switching the the long travel CV nor a torn boot. This all has seemed to finally rectify my alignment issues, wander under acceleration and cornering and constant replacement of torn cv boots and busted axels and saved my steering shaft from prematurely blowing out again.

All in all after wasting thousand of dollars here is the winning ingredients to combat lifting 2 inches and riding on 35’s with a body lift- SPC UCA, long travel CV axels imported from Australia, diff drop (a must), steering shaft extension sleeve (brings steering angles back into Toyota factory spec also imported from OZ).

Hope this helps anyone going down this path and with building our rigs right. Along with saving thousands of dollars in which could be used for the “Gucci” stuff that we all want to throw onto our rigs right away.
 
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