Cut & turn 80 axle ??

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

MaddBaggins

MaddBaggins

Remember the KnightRider!
10 Year 15 Year 20 Year
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Threads
138
Messages
3,616
Location
The Old Pueblo
I did a bunch of work on the rig this last 3 day weekend.
Most of it having to do with suspension upgrades front and rear, plus the new rear driveshaft I recently purchased.
So now I’m sitting about 1” higher than I was. My castor sucked before, but was tolerable. Well, now it drives like a$$. I have Landtanks castor plates and new OEM bushings for the front control arms. I plan on doing that this coming weekend but…

I’m wondering how hard it would be to cut and turn and if any of you guys have any experience doing it? At least in my head, cut and turn doesn’t seem that much more difficult than installing Landtanks plates.

Anybody know how to do a cut and turn and want to help me? I have all the equipment at my house (air tools, grinder, welder etc) and would like to do the job there, but if need be I could go to PHX. I would rather not drive that far though, cause really, the rig drives like $hite right now.

Of course food and beverage and gas money would be supplied to anyone willing to come to mi casa this weekend.
 
not a big job, just time consuming,,,get yerself a gasket or rebuild kit before you do it, might as well do it all since you'll be tearing the axle down huh? also an all wheel pipe cutter from your place of buisiness really makes the cut easy to do.
 
Well, I just talked to Tools and he told me that if I plan on keeping the stock control arms, a cut and turn won't really work on the 80. It will put the tie-rod into the control arms. So I would have to change up the steering or the links to make a cut and turn work. I'm not into doing all that this weekend so I will just install the plates.

Thanks anyway

But if anyone wants to discuss the topic please continue...
 
If you don't have the caster correction installed yet (plates and/or bushings) then I'm not suprised it drives like... yeah. I don't know your setup, but you might try just the plates (or bushings, but I think the plates offer more correction) and see where your caster is at. With only 4 inches of lift you should be able to do better than 'tolerable', you shouldn't have a problem getting it to drive nicely. Be ready for the driveshaft blues though... :D
Also having spoken with Kevin and getting schooled on suspension geometry, a cut and turn seems to be an alternative best saved for a huge lift and when you're willing to completely change the steering and suspension. At that point you'll be running 44+" tires and have many more mods to do. :D

Rhino, when you say 'all wheel pipe cutter' are you talking about a plumbing pipe chain-type cutter? If so, does that work on Toy (squarish tube) axles? Makes perfect sense on a Dana axle, never would have tried it on a Toy axle.

-Spike
 
naw, looks like a regular old plumbing pipe cutter but it has 3 cutting wheels instead of just one with two rollers. the chain type is for cutting cast iron pipe, it doesnt actually spin on the pipe, it just applies even pressure on the cutting wheels to snap it.

doesnt the 80 axle go round right where you would be cutting it at the factory weld seam ?
 
RHINO said:
...

doesnt the 80 axle go round right where you would be cutting it at the factory weld seam ?
Click to expand...

Yes, same procedure as the rest of them.
 
Allen, what are you doing with all of your old springs?

Jason
 
MaddBaggins said:
I have a bunch of stuff that will be up for sale soon. I'll start a new thread on that in the next few days.
Click to expand...

Coolness, I will be hawking... I'm particularly interested in the front J springs and spacers!

Jason
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom