cut and turn

megolfer

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Jan 29, 2003
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I am planing to do a cut and turn on the fron housing this weekend. It is a fj40 housing and I want to cut and turn it before I install. My cruiser is a daily driver and I cant tare it down to get the exact angle that the knuckles need to be. My question is, what degree shouls I set them at and what is the best way of getting the degree right. I have an angle finder, but that do I use as a reference to find this angle.

Thanks
Cacy
 
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Go with a 180 deg cut-n-turn,... swap your axles front to back,... make her into a rear-steer!!!! :cheers:

IIRC it's 15 degrees.

WILL
 

woody

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it can range from 12-16 degrees...it depends on your front suspension design. Really, the "only" best method is to pick a number, rotate, then place the empty housing under the rig. It also depends on if you are planning on a front CV driveshaft or not (or, like me, you don't care)

We had mine under the rig 4 times with the weight on it before we were pleased with the pinion angle and with the caster. Tacked the perches and removed to weld up. My pinion points straight at the t-case front output and the caster is (IIRC) +3, versus the stock +1.
 
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On mine, after the perches were where we wanted them, we put it back under the truck with the tires back on and let it sit with the weight on the springs, then measured the height of the axle tube to the ground.
Then take the wheels off and put the axle on jack stands at the same height you were before. Then you can disassemble the knuckles and do the cut and turn on the vehicle. Put an angle finder on the top of the knuckle and set it to whatever caster you want. Easier than trial and error.
 
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How are you planning on cutting the axle? When I did my cut and turn, I found that the most effective way to cut it is with a 4 inch pipe cutter. The knuckle inner tube is sleeved into the axle tube for about 3 or 4 inches, and you can put a pipe cutter on the axle tube inboard about a inch from the weld that holds the knuckle into place. The circular pipe cutter makes a clean, straight cut and it is very easy to put a great weld back in there, as the pipe cutter leaves a "V" groove that is a snap to burn. Also, in Woody's write up, I found that it was much easier to turn the knuckles after they were heated well with the torch. Are you replacing the trunion bearings while you are in there? If you are, leave the old races in the knuckle, and put a piece of steel stock in the holes and use them as leverage in turning the housings. All this and you can turn one intimidating procedure into a cake walk. :D
 

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