Custom trailer questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SICARIO
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ntsqd
technerd
I would shorten up the rear end of the receiver tube until it is flush to the face of the rear cross-member. That way the tail gate can drop to truly vertical. As it is now it will hit the hitch and try to get bent there should anything push on the tail gate while it is down. As a bonus this will move the std. cross pin hole a little further forward and away from the front face of the rear cross-member making it easier to R&R the cross pin.
Consider some sort of tail gate latch that pulls up tight to reduce the number of rattle points. Something like this: McMaster-Carr or this: McMaster-Carr McMaster is probably not the lowest cost option, but that'll give you an idea of what I'm thinking of.
I think that after fully tacking everything that I'd weld all of the seams full-length using the back-stepping technique on the inside of the tub, but only use ~1" beads on the outside. Then prep and use seam sealer where you didn't weld on the outside before painting it. Especially on the underside and in the fenders.
Look over the whole thing with an eye towards "where can dirt/ice/salty slush/etc. build up in a ledge or in a crevice?" and see if you can alter the design slightly to make that ledge etc. go away.
Also think about where the wiring is going to go. Inside the tube is easy for protection, but that has it's share of problems. Now you need holes into the frame where junk can get in, where the wires can fray on the edge of, and where it is difficult to fish the wire through in the first running of wire. I'd look into other options and I've none that I really like to suggest. The closest to likable, in my eyes, is to use trailer light cable for the whole thing with dedicated holders. Like: Trailer Cable | Trailer Wire Making connections under the trailer is the toughie. Maybe inside of sealed J-boxes with liquid tight cord-grips? I dunno.....
At the very least use adhesive lined heat shrink over the terminals. Can get them combined like these: Heat Shrink Butt Connectors or get the heat shrink on it's own and use uninsulated terminals.
The bane of trailers is always their lighting, and it is the grounding that is nearly always at fault. I have had excellent results from NOT using the trailer frame for the grounds. I run a dedicated ground wire for each load. Sometimes that wire is connected to a mounting bolt because the unit's mfg didn't provide a dedicated ground wire and intended the unit to ground thru it mount(s). That's OK, just keep running dedicated ground wires.
Even if you're only thinking to bed-liner the bed and not the whole thing, give some serious thought to also doing the inside of the fenders. It will keep the big rocks from denting the fender panels on the backside & causing the paint to crack in a star pattern. If you're going to paint part of it, do that first. Might consider also asking the bed liner folks about masking off where people are likely to step and putting some liner there for traction and wear.
Consider some sort of tail gate latch that pulls up tight to reduce the number of rattle points. Something like this: McMaster-Carr or this: McMaster-Carr McMaster is probably not the lowest cost option, but that'll give you an idea of what I'm thinking of.
I think that after fully tacking everything that I'd weld all of the seams full-length using the back-stepping technique on the inside of the tub, but only use ~1" beads on the outside. Then prep and use seam sealer where you didn't weld on the outside before painting it. Especially on the underside and in the fenders.
Look over the whole thing with an eye towards "where can dirt/ice/salty slush/etc. build up in a ledge or in a crevice?" and see if you can alter the design slightly to make that ledge etc. go away.
Also think about where the wiring is going to go. Inside the tube is easy for protection, but that has it's share of problems. Now you need holes into the frame where junk can get in, where the wires can fray on the edge of, and where it is difficult to fish the wire through in the first running of wire. I'd look into other options and I've none that I really like to suggest. The closest to likable, in my eyes, is to use trailer light cable for the whole thing with dedicated holders. Like: Trailer Cable | Trailer Wire Making connections under the trailer is the toughie. Maybe inside of sealed J-boxes with liquid tight cord-grips? I dunno.....
At the very least use adhesive lined heat shrink over the terminals. Can get them combined like these: Heat Shrink Butt Connectors or get the heat shrink on it's own and use uninsulated terminals.
The bane of trailers is always their lighting, and it is the grounding that is nearly always at fault. I have had excellent results from NOT using the trailer frame for the grounds. I run a dedicated ground wire for each load. Sometimes that wire is connected to a mounting bolt because the unit's mfg didn't provide a dedicated ground wire and intended the unit to ground thru it mount(s). That's OK, just keep running dedicated ground wires.
Even if you're only thinking to bed-liner the bed and not the whole thing, give some serious thought to also doing the inside of the fenders. It will keep the big rocks from denting the fender panels on the backside & causing the paint to crack in a star pattern. If you're going to paint part of it, do that first. Might consider also asking the bed liner folks about masking off where people are likely to step and putting some liner there for traction and wear.
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I had two immediate thoughts.
1. same as above, create a plan to allow the tailgate to hang down.
2. lower the axle a bit, maybe 1", 2" max, so there is more room between the top of tire and fender. This may just be my personal taste.
while i typed this i considered a) the brake, if you still want it plan the location of the handle. b) you could make a insertable leg for the rear receiver to keep the trailer from flipping backward, have a look at M1102. c) the #2 bane of trailers is the front landing gear. d) you should offset your constraint on the wheels so the tires are properly placed. If you have to cheat it a bit for looks then easiest to make a quick wheel center.
1. same as above, create a plan to allow the tailgate to hang down.
2. lower the axle a bit, maybe 1", 2" max, so there is more room between the top of tire and fender. This may just be my personal taste.
while i typed this i considered a) the brake, if you still want it plan the location of the handle. b) you could make a insertable leg for the rear receiver to keep the trailer from flipping backward, have a look at M1102. c) the #2 bane of trailers is the front landing gear. d) you should offset your constraint on the wheels so the tires are properly placed. If you have to cheat it a bit for looks then easiest to make a quick wheel center.
ntsqd
technerd
I'll second Chris' thoughts on the tongue jack. On the Cheap Utility Trailer we tried a stand rather than a jack. It was moderately successful until a friend borrowed it and needed to lift the tongue with a load in the trailer. He was able to rig something to work with his floor jack (likely really scary), but asked if he could donate adding a rotating jack to the tongue. I noticed the other day when I was over there that the handle for the jack is now gone, so winding it up/down might be a trick. I think that a better stand design than where we used would yield better results. We've learned a lot in the years since that trailer was built.
The TrailBlazer has a 5k lbs tongue jack welded in place, and then gusseted too. Like this one: Pro Series Square Jack with Footplate - Drop Leg - Topwind - 15" Lift - 5,000 lbs Pro Series Trailer Jack PS1400800383 I hope I never forget to put the leg up or it will be a mess to fix. This is probably the cause of the demise of 70%+ of all trailer tongue jacks. The best tongue jack design I've ever seen is the one on the U-Haul car hauler trailers, but I've no idea where to buy one or if it is even possible to buy one.
On Chris' comment about rear stabilizing legs/stand/etc. I'd be tempted to tuck a pair of these: Atwood Stabilizer Jack - 6-1/4" Drop Leg Travel - 21-3/4" Ext - Black - 1,000 lbs - Qty 1 Atwood Camper Jack AT82297 under the rear and slightly forward of the rear cross-member so that they're out of the way & somewhat protected when folded up. Can easily make telescoping extensions for extra length to fit inside them as our TrailBlazer has this exact feature added to them.
The TrailBlazer has a 5k lbs tongue jack welded in place, and then gusseted too. Like this one: Pro Series Square Jack with Footplate - Drop Leg - Topwind - 15" Lift - 5,000 lbs Pro Series Trailer Jack PS1400800383 I hope I never forget to put the leg up or it will be a mess to fix. This is probably the cause of the demise of 70%+ of all trailer tongue jacks. The best tongue jack design I've ever seen is the one on the U-Haul car hauler trailers, but I've no idea where to buy one or if it is even possible to buy one.
On Chris' comment about rear stabilizing legs/stand/etc. I'd be tempted to tuck a pair of these: Atwood Stabilizer Jack - 6-1/4" Drop Leg Travel - 21-3/4" Ext - Black - 1,000 lbs - Qty 1 Atwood Camper Jack AT82297 under the rear and slightly forward of the rear cross-member so that they're out of the way & somewhat protected when folded up. Can easily make telescoping extensions for extra length to fit inside them as our TrailBlazer has this exact feature added to them.
- Thread starter
- #26
Awesome input, thanks! I think the stabilizing jacks in the rear are a great idea.
with the suggestion of adding a different latch to the tailgate to lessen rattling I have a few questions.
Should I have the tailgate "cap" the rear of the trailer, or fit flush to the back (see pictures for both versions). I don't really have a preference, but if there's reason for one or the other I'm all ears.
Another question. The dirt/ice/mud issue. Seems like my design has the possibility to accumulate a bit of debris between the fender and the trailer body. If I move the trailer skin to the outside of the frame I'd probably eliminate that accumulation. Any opinion to one way or the other?
For trailer wiring, I was thinking of running rigid conduit with sealed junction boxes, and then running so cord from the conduit to the wheels, and conduit to the rear tail lights. Is this a reasonable idea or should I just use the standard trailer wiring cord that was suggested.
Good suggestion on the bedliner. I'll probably plan on the whole underside, fenders and inside the trailer.
View attachment 1481666
with the suggestion of adding a different latch to the tailgate to lessen rattling I have a few questions.
Should I have the tailgate "cap" the rear of the trailer, or fit flush to the back (see pictures for both versions). I don't really have a preference, but if there's reason for one or the other I'm all ears.
Another question. The dirt/ice/mud issue. Seems like my design has the possibility to accumulate a bit of debris between the fender and the trailer body. If I move the trailer skin to the outside of the frame I'd probably eliminate that accumulation. Any opinion to one way or the other?
For trailer wiring, I was thinking of running rigid conduit with sealed junction boxes, and then running so cord from the conduit to the wheels, and conduit to the rear tail lights. Is this a reasonable idea or should I just use the standard trailer wiring cord that was suggested.
Good suggestion on the bedliner. I'll probably plan on the whole underside, fenders and inside the trailer.
View attachment 1481666
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ntsqd
technerd
Do you plan on seals for the tail gate opening? One geometry or the other may lend itself better to seals. I'd use Trim-lock stuff myself. Can buy it new from places like mcmaster and Austin Hardware, or first gen VW Rabbits used it for their door seals.
My comment about dirt/ice/etc. build-up was more directed at underneath and inside of the fenders. With single walled construction you'll always have ledges somewhere. I see no downside to double-walled, either just inside the fenders or in total, so long as it is sealed inside and out so that rust can't start.
If you're going to use extension cord type cable you'll want SOOW or SJOOW for water and oil resistance. I would expect the trailer cable to have those properties built-in. And offer conductors more suited to the use, but I have used extension cord on trailers. A sealed junction box with waterproof cord-grips could work and offer more flexibility for changes in the future.
My comment about dirt/ice/etc. build-up was more directed at underneath and inside of the fenders. With single walled construction you'll always have ledges somewhere. I see no downside to double-walled, either just inside the fenders or in total, so long as it is sealed inside and out so that rust can't start.
If you're going to use extension cord type cable you'll want SOOW or SJOOW for water and oil resistance. I would expect the trailer cable to have those properties built-in. And offer conductors more suited to the use, but I have used extension cord on trailers. A sealed junction box with waterproof cord-grips could work and offer more flexibility for changes in the future.
I like the idea of conduit, but with a well groomed pathway, the frame could be the conduit... you just need to cut out a hatch and fab a cover and gasket... I vote for tailgat flush, or inside of siderails... keeps it from getting bashed around. My 2 scents
ntsqd
technerd
The tailgate on the trailer grandad built is a "cap" style. It doesn't get bashed any more than the rest of the trailer. Flush probably will look cleaner and more integrated.
What I don't like about wiring inside the frame is, aside from sealing the entry/exit points, the wires or cable will be floppy-loose in there with no way to secure it. Abrasion will happen which will eventually require replacement, but only after making you nucking-futs with electrical gremlins. Somewhere along the way I heard of someone either suggesting or doing this, drill a small hole periodically in the tube where the wiring is, and give each a shot of that spray foam. Done every 12"-18" that would probably keep the wiring from moving around. But if there ever came a time
when that cable needed to be replaced you'd have to abandon it in place and do something different.
I'd rather see it tucked up tight & secured every 12"-18" on the exterior of the frame. If not in conduit, there could be tubes welded thru holes in the cross-members so that the wiring never has to cross under and can always be up on the vertical faces of the frame.
I don't know that bedliner is the right stuff to use, but it might be. Consider that the front facing faces of the trailer will get sprayed with rocks and gravel at times. A trip down Saline Valley Rd. in a storm thoroughly blasted my truck's rear axle housing. Not a remnant of paint or rust to be found on any of the forward facing surfaces.
What I don't like about wiring inside the frame is, aside from sealing the entry/exit points, the wires or cable will be floppy-loose in there with no way to secure it. Abrasion will happen which will eventually require replacement, but only after making you nucking-futs with electrical gremlins. Somewhere along the way I heard of someone either suggesting or doing this, drill a small hole periodically in the tube where the wiring is, and give each a shot of that spray foam. Done every 12"-18" that would probably keep the wiring from moving around. But if there ever came a time
when that cable needed to be replaced you'd have to abandon it in place and do something different.
I'd rather see it tucked up tight & secured every 12"-18" on the exterior of the frame. If not in conduit, there could be tubes welded thru holes in the cross-members so that the wiring never has to cross under and can always be up on the vertical faces of the frame.
I don't know that bedliner is the right stuff to use, but it might be. Consider that the front facing faces of the trailer will get sprayed with rocks and gravel at times. A trip down Saline Valley Rd. in a storm thoroughly blasted my truck's rear axle housing. Not a remnant of paint or rust to be found on any of the forward facing surfaces.
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