I've been trying to perfect the rear drawers over the last year in order to accommodate tools, recovery gear and assorted camping gear. i've had just two drawers, much like the ARB drawers, then changed to this format but with a sliding lid (which i removed) allowing the top to be pulled foward (much like the new 4runners). I didn't really use this much and found when accessing recovery gear on an incline, the the top slide would roll back with gear and be a pain in the butt. Do to the difficulty in accessing the gear at the rear of the drawer, this version uses a split top to access the back if you have to get gear at the back without having to pull the drawers out (like if on an incline) and reach back all the crap.
It is not carpeted yet, but it will be soon and look like the interior carpet in colour and texture once i'm satisfied with the design.
I'm open to any comments or suggestions on this.. as an FYI the black box in the right (located on the carpeting amp covering, is the junction box for rear power for things like the interior LED lights on the hatch, camp spots on the roof rack and future expansion etc).
maybe the lights on the lift gate? with the coffin on the left and chainsaw on the right, its got a concealed body part feel to it. like it. what's going on where the subwoofer resides?
thanks for the comments.. i didn't use the chainsaw to make it, although if you look closely at the cuts, one may assume i did.. they still need carpeting and sanding, but i wanted to get it functional then finish it off.
the sideways pic is of the LED lights that i wired into the hatch.. i took the idea from this forum with the 80 series light retrofit and instead used led's from the local auto parts store.. easier then buying ebay or waiting for shipping.
the rails are ball bearing drawer slides that you can pick up at any hardware store.. they have a 100 pd capacity, but i've seen higher quality ones on this forum that go to 200+.. i don't think i'll need that capacity and besides, its in 5/8's plywood and that would likely fail from vertical stress from the rails holding the cargo..
Looks very nice, been thinking about doing something like this. For me, I was thinking of doing one with a built in grill/fridge and a sink on a slide-out. I would build another set of drawers that could replace the grill/sink/fridge when not in use.
Any idea how much this weighs empty?
How are you attaching this to the floor?
How easy would it be to take out? I assume that it would be a two person job to take out.
it might suit you very well.. i thought his adaptation of what you can buy off the shelf is really smart.. looks well built and thought out; i think i'm going to incorporate a second modular part like he built to go on the one side.. my stove is currently in the bottom drawer and i was waiting for install of my rear bumper to install a fold down metal platform off the inside rear of the swing out bumper.. i digress - just thinking outloud.
i could guess the wieght to be about 60-100 pounds? that's a lot of error, but its a 6000 pound machine so i wasn't really considering weight as a big factor.. i'd be more concerned with the roof top tent and increasing center of gravity. it is easy to get in and out with two people, however, i do this myself on a creeper to the tailgate and just pivot it up and on the back, then sliding it in place.. it needs some walking but other wise easy. it secures to the try tie down points in the interior and i have adjusting screws onto a locking d ring that cinches it down so it doesn't move in offroading or in a rollover.. if we did rollover, i imagine the wood would break and tools would fly everywhere.. if i was more paranoid i'd use a ratchet strap or two as redundant security to the same time down points and wrap around it.
