Current thoughts on CV axle angle

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So then adjusting the front suspension down a half inch and using OE parts should do the trick then. That would put me at a little over 2” lift in the front that does not require further modification. Agreed?
 
So then adjusting the front suspension down a half inch and using OE parts should do the trick then. That would put me at a little over 2” lift in the front that does not require further modification. Agreed?
I don’t think there’s a line where it’s ok or a problem. The more lift the more wear and the higher risk of blowing a CV when they’re extended. Below 2” is generally considered OK… you’ll have more wear than normal but does it really matter? Who really knows.

After one CV with a slit in the boot in 20k miles I just spent the $70 on a DD kit. Other than needing to space down my skids I haven’t felt it’s been negative for me. Yes I lose an inch of clearance but I’m pretty good at avoiding hitting that part. Now my transfer case skid is another story…
 
There is always a risk associated with any lifted vehicle with IFS along with the possibility potential damage or mechanical failure. With the DD kit really being front tilt kits for the diff, when I installed it it felt as if the diff was in a bit of a bind and did not sit naturally or level so I removed it. If the common consensus is that below 2” is ok then I would say that’s a good fix. I would say across the multitude of forums and responses that about 95% of vendors and experienced folks say that a diff drop is not needed. Not for the 200 series anyways. Maybe the 100 series for sure. Thank you for the in-depth response but it really didn't answer any question directly. I mean, who really knows right. I’ll send it see what happens! No worries.
 
I am at right under 22"
So I’m a bit taller, Toyota axels would be worth it. You’re a bit far but my rig was built by Duggy’s Garage in Houston, Toyotas/Lexus is all they do might be worth checking out. Since you rack up so many miles a month it may be worth doing all the things you mentioned, lessen preload, Toyota axels.
 
So I’m a bit taller, Toyota axels would be worth it. You’re a bit far but my rig was built by Duggy’s Garage in Houston, Toyotas/Lexus is all they do might be worth checking out. Since you rack up so many miles a month it may be worth doing all the things you mentioned, lessen preload, Toyota axels.
Thank you for the advice! Yeah, I'm a bit far from Houston at the moment, we are stationed in El Paso currently and there isn't a very big Land Cruiser/LX 570 community out here. There is one shop that seems to be more on par but I tend to be a DYI guy. They go by Hammerstregth Performance. I don't mind swapping the CV's myself. I also saw a company that rebuilds Toyota axles and then uses a high angle inner cv boot. I think it was JCV that sells them, but I could be mistaken.
 
Update - I ended up swaping the CVs with OEM parts, adjusting the front end down 1/2" and took @linuxgod 's advice with the diff drop. I have racked up an additional 76K miles since March of last year putting me at 323K miles. Zero issues. I am considering increasing the front up that 1/2" as the diff drop worked its magic and I dont drive like an idiot. On to skid plates, looking at Asfir. Now I just need to figure out why 4LO doesn't work any more....
 
Update - I ended up swaping the CVs with OEM parts, adjusting the front end down 1/2" and took @linuxgod 's advice with the diff drop. I have racked up an additional 76K miles since March of last year putting me at 323K miles. Zero issues. I am considering increasing the front up that 1/2" as the diff drop worked its magic and I dont drive like an idiot. On to skid plates, looking at Asfir. Now I just need to figure out why 4LO doesn't work any more....
Asfir can work with a DD but you’ll need to make some aluminum spacers and get longer bolts.

I’m considering removing my DD and also moving to Slee skids, so if you have an interest in some used and slightly banged up Asfir skids for cheap, DM me
 
So far my CVs are holding up. I check the boots often and listen for anything suspicious. Once the kings reach rebuild stage, I will change things up and do whatever is necessary to drop the rig a solid 1” at least. I would also prefer a more basic non-reservoir shock.
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@linuxgod may I ask what has made you consider moving away from the DD? @Txoverland love the rig. What angle are your CVs still sitting at?

I guess the question is an old one. To DD or not to DD then.
 
I did my DD about 100k miles ago when I had CVs which were throwing grease and I thought the angle post-lift was the problem. It turns out the issue was someone had rebooted mine with aftermarket Tundra CV boots and those just didn't clamp properly and also not being Toyota boots seemed to tear after about 30k miles. Since going with Toyota reman CVs and boots I've not had any issues. I do think a DD is helpful in getting CV angles to not be too stressed on the joints, but I also think the CVs even at the steeper angles should run 100k+ and you're better off without the DD since it does change the pinion angle on the front diff and can cause wear from insufficient lubrication.

If you're regularly blowing CVs I'd look at your alignment and make sure you don't have too much caster and aren't maxing out the CV at full droop. I read info from TexAZ where SPC admitted that you shouldn't add more than 3/4" caster with their UCAs even though they'll let you go up to ~1.25".
 
I did my DD about 100k miles ago when I had CVs which were throwing grease and I thought the angle post-lift was the problem. It turns out the issue was someone had rebooted mine with aftermarket Tundra CV boots and those just didn't clamp properly and also not being Toyota boots seemed to tear after about 30k miles. Since going with Toyota reman CVs and boots I've not had any issues. I do think a DD is helpful in getting CV angles to not be too stressed on the joints, but I also think the CVs even at the steeper angles should run 100k+ and you're better off without the DD since it does change the pinion angle on the front diff and can cause wear from insufficient lubrication.

If you're regularly blowing CVs I'd look at your alignment and make sure you don't have too much caster and aren't maxing out the CV at full droop. I read info from TexAZ where SPC admitted that you shouldn't add more than 3/4" caster with their UCAs even though they'll let you go up to ~1.25".
Looking back, the only CV boots that tore were the cheap non-Toyota ones. Ever since I went with the real deal, I haven’t seen any issues but I also installed the DD at the same time so I don’t know if I would have torn the Toyota boots. I might remove the DD and see what the angle of the CV are after.
 
@linuxgod may I ask what has made you consider moving away from the DD? @Txoverland love the rig. What angle are your CVs still sitting at?

I guess the question is an old one. To DD or not to DD then.
I don’t think the angle has settled any, I guess I have moved on with my life lol. I don’t think about it anymore, I do keep a close eye on them, especially before and after any trips or off roading. I just got through with a major maintenance regimen: all fluids, new pads and rotors, new serpentine belt. Keeping a close eye on ball joints, bushings and shocks.
 
I don’t think the angle has settled any, I guess I have moved on with my life lol. I don’t think about it anymore, I do keep a close eye on them, especially before and after any trips or off roading. I just got through with a major maintenance regimen: all fluids, new pads and rotors, new serpentine belt. Keeping a close eye on ball joints, bushings and shocks.
Ah yes, the belt, I need to do that. Good call. I think I’m just gonna pull the DD and see what happens. Send it.
 
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