Builds Cummins R2.8 H151 Swap into 1993 FZJ80

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by PurpleFJ62, Dec 26, 2018.

  1. PurpleFJ62

    PurpleFJ62

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    What are you doing for a lift pump? Those 12 valves are impressive engines. I have a 24 valve in my tow rig, I would prefer a 12 valve.

    Another thing for everyone to know is that the R2.8 must be connected to a WIF or else it will throw a code. Since they dont provide any real technical information its very tough to determine what parts from other vehicles could be interchanged.

    I really wish they would publish the pump/suction head of the lift pump so we could not fly in the dark when designing the fuel system, once again, its intellectual property.

    I'm going to try to follow Cummins installation documentation as close as I can, it will be interesting to see how it all plays out over the next several years of usage. When and if things break and need to be modified I will post an update.
     
  2. Mr Cimarron

    Mr Cimarron DRIVE, BREAK, FIX, REPEAT SILVER Star

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    Im still using the factory pump. When deleting the fuel heater you add a spacer behind the lift pump where the the heater bracket mounted.
    The WIF sensor probably should be used on a common rail as the components aren’t cheap to replace. My buddy recked his pump on his 04 by getting some bad fuel but the WIF sensor did not warn him.
    Is there any room on the frame rail for the filters? Kinda like how some install their FASS systems?
     
  3. PurpleFJ62

    PurpleFJ62

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    If the r2.8 could use an external lift pump i think there is space.

    Where the exhaust goes over the frame on the fj80 models you could put something like a fass pump.

    I dont have an exact measurment for the amount of clearance, those fass system look large in diesel power magazine, it might hang below the frame rail.
     
  4. cody c

    cody c

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    I have asked you what 2 or 3 times who or where you are getting your data from, and this is your response, yeah... That's what I thought, you got nothing but insults, is there a bridge for u to rock crawl under?
     
  5. White Stripe

    White Stripe

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    Proffitts ressuection cruisers recorded lowest fuel mileage with a 2.8 was around 20mpg. Their best was around 25mpg. That's what they say on their website. Their is also a proffitts YouTube episode where they do various tests with a 2.8 80 series. A lot better mpg than a 1fz or 3fe. Other motor swap options have pros n cons. At least the OP weighed his engine choice options, made a choice best for himself, and is executing it in an extremely clean manner. Which is more than most people do with their rigs.
     
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  6. shocktower

    shocktower

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    I could get that, and I have, my usual is 20 + but I drive it like a sports car on 35"s and 4.10 stock gears 5.9 Cummins VE pump
     
  7. TWILLY

    TWILLY

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    I cited and linked to the Proffitts test earlier in this discussion, which he dismissed as "bullshit." Factually bankrupt antagonism brings nothing to this forum. Documentation of real-world transplants, and results thereof -- as the OP is doing here, and as Poffitts did - does.
     
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  8. PurpleFJ62

    PurpleFJ62

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    Now I have a bit of a problem. I'm trying to install the factory 80 series diesel tank vent system, but I cannot uncode the parts diagram. Turns out that some of the vent parts are no longer available, even from the land of plenty. I have everything except the hardline that bolts to the tank. I guess i'll need to splice in some fuel hose to make up that length.


    I could really use some pictures of this setup from a real HDJ80. Where in the hell does the grommet go? Inside the rocker panel? Thats about the only "sealed" volume I could think of. You would not want it routed inside the cabin because of the vapors obviously.

    There are some threaded nutserts available on the LHS

    I'm stumped completely, on the bright side I did install new rubber lines between the steel filler pipe and the tank. These should be good for another 25 years!
     
  9. White Stripe

    White Stripe

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    I believe 7726a does run through the frame for a bit on the vent going to the evap cannister. When I did my LS swap I did away with that and mounted everything on the outside of the frame rail, but that does expose stuff more to rocks.
     
  10. PurpleFJ62

    PurpleFJ62

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    I found some pictures that made it look like the hose after the check valve goes through the grommet into one of the chassis crossmembers, the one directly behind the fuel tank. From the diagram it appears to just sit in there?

    For a modest update I just got some machined parts in the mail that will solve the coolant pump outlet clearance problem. As mentioned previously these parts will be joined with 16GA 1 7/8 tubing to route around the steering box.


    :cheers:
     
  11. PurpleFJ62

    PurpleFJ62

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    Got a few things finished up today. It is very hard to get motivated to work on this thing when its like 25F outside, I could sure use a woodstove in my barn!

    Anyways, the fuel return system is done, I am not too happy with it. Cummins r2.8 comes with SAE J2044 5/16 quick connect fittings, the return hose from a HDJ80 is a little too small for the barb on this fitting. I could not find one with a smaller barb so I lubed her up with WD-40 and pushed the hose on, it will never come off, not without cutting anyways.


    This hooks directly to the HDJ80 factory hardline.
     
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  12. PurpleFJ62

    PurpleFJ62

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    I also got the dash board installed, horrible job. I got a used dash from a mud member, it was in slightly better condition than my original one. Not worth the time or hassle in my opinion. The pics made it look better than it is in real life.

    There are a ton of little bolts that you can forget about, i've tried to snap pics of most all of them for future reference.



    I also added wires for a starter saftey switch. According to my OEM wiring diagrams HDJ80's did not come with clutch start cancel switches like the mini trucks, and the mini truck switch does not fit so you cannot retrofit one. Also the diagrams dont indicate the existence of a clutch start switch that is mounted on the pedal. There is some diesel start relay, but i'm not going to mess around with that.

    The switch I bought from mcmaster is On-off-(on), so I can lock it in the on position, but it has has momentary capability for my better half. If for some reason it needs to be changed because she starts the thing and hits another car we can look for another switch configuration.


    Another order of business was the key interlock, this is the thing that does not allow you to remove the key until you put the PRNDL into the park position. Obviously with the H151 this is no longer needed. It is possible to play tricks with wires to solve this issue, but I figure it should just be removed. With luck as bad as mine it would short out and drain my batteries or something, if its gone it can not do anything.


    The actual part to be removed is this block cubic thing

    You can verify correct operation with a small screwdriver, the steering wheel lock still functions properly, so when the key is removed you cannot turn the wheel.

    Next order of business is come cosmetic stuff. My gauge surround was cracked from the PO, how typical. Anyways I found a new old stock one online and got it. Just a matter of changing the switches and hvac vents. I did break a vent, I am trying to repair it with plasiweld, I hope it works.


    This is a great time to clean everything within an inch of its life.

     
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  13. PurpleFJ62

    PurpleFJ62

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    Now a question for the more experienced 80 series people out there. How do you remove the light dimmer switch?


    It does not look like it will slide out the front of the gauge surround.


    Any suggestions? I am trying to be very careful with the plastic since its old. It does not seem that the dial pulls off the front or that that white part of the switch pulls off the back.

    Hopefully someone out there has done this before!

    Cheers!
     
  14. Mr Cimarron

    Mr Cimarron DRIVE, BREAK, FIX, REPEAT SILVER Star

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    Yes dial pulls off and there is nut under it to unscrew. Those rheostats are pretty common in 90's Toyotas so if you broke it a picknpull would have a replacement. I also have a spare I use for testing when the dash is out so I don't have to remove the one off the plastic. FYI your dash lights will not work without it plugged in.
     
  15. PurpleFJ62

    PurpleFJ62

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    Thanks for that info. I'll tear into that straight away.
     
  16. PurpleFJ62

    PurpleFJ62

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    Now onto another issue that I can't find the answer to. For those who have done an h151 swap, check out the following pictures of the different center consouls

    These are with new HDJ80 consoul, sorry some of these pics are rotated.

    These are with the A442F consoul

    Look at that horrible gap between the dash and the h151 consoul, anyone have pictures of a factory setup?
     
  17. Defuzer1

    Defuzer1

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    If someone doesnt beat me to it i will get some pics tomorrow have factory 151 but in front of a with petrol 4.5 carb
     
  18. AlbertoSD

    AlbertoSD SILVER Star

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    The problem you see is that your dash is the earlier dash model for the 80-series and the manual center console you are using is the manual center console for the late model 80-series dash, therefore you will have that gap. The correct manual center console for your dash model is also flat at the interface surface (like shown on your last photo for the automatic transmission), versus the curved one shown for the late model ones. I think the early center console is discontinued and your only choice (if that bothers you a lot), would be to find a used one, sadly, or modify the automatic one to accept the leather covers.

    NOTE: None of the below photos are mine, I just saved then since I will be crossing the same bridge soon.

    Here are some photos of the Early Center console for a manual 80-series with the early dash model, one for the LHD version and the second with the RHD version (Both The RHD version and the LHD version for the early dash models are the same (non-curved up) at the interface between dash and console):

    interior1.jpg

    IMG_2747.JPG

    Here are some photos of somebody here in the forum that used the late model center console on the earlier dash model (since I think it is the only one that can be found). Note the same gap that you referred to in your posts above:

    M2.jpg

    M3.jpg

    M4.jpg

    The center console that you have would sit flush against the late model 80-series dash.

    Hope this helps,

    -Alberto
     
  19. AlbertoSD

    AlbertoSD SILVER Star

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    Furthermore, the leather boots for the early and late center consoles are also different (to accommodate the curved edge on the late model ones).

    Early center console Leather Boot Cover (PN 58808-60020):

    Early Model Cover 58808-60020.PNG

    Late center console Leather Boot Cover (PN 58808-60060):

    Late Model Cover 58808-60060.jpg

    By the way, great execution of your project. Jealous of the skills and resources that you are putting into this. Very nicely done.

    -Alberto

    P.S. The part numbers I listed above for the leather boot covers are just for reference and might not be correct. I borrowed them from Cruiserparts.net at the following link:

    Accessories : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts
     
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  20. PurpleFJ62

    PurpleFJ62

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    Many thanks Alberto for that info, i wish i would have know that a year ago when i was sourcing parts for this project.

    I wonder where i could find one? I dont know of any reputable resellers overseas.

    Ill poke around and try to find one.
     
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