Builds Cummins R2.8 H151 Swap into 1993 FZJ80 (5 Viewers)

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I have got a small electrical problem, perhaps someone has delt with this before. I am going to use the PRNDL display for the Cummins R2.8 warning lights. I have the 4 required lights using the Park, Neutral, Drive, 2 spots. The problem is that there is a resistor in series with the light bulb that illuminates the "D". This will make the fourth warning light dimmer than the first three.

See this diagram
PRNDL Diagram

PRNDL Diagram


The PRNDL assembly has one of those flexible circuit board things, I suppose with enough care it could be removed. Has anyone ever done surgery on one of these things before?

PRNDL

PRNDL


In the intrest of making this swap look as professional as possible I went to New Vintage USA in Detroit for a custom gauge face plate, this will plug right into the factory PRNDL display. It has black face, so you will not really be able to see the symbols unless they are in direct sunlight, this is different from the OEM Toyota PRNDL display.

With light behind
PRNDL

PRNDL


Without
PRNDL

PRNDL


On a side note, I dont suppose anyone has the older style shifter boot from post #119? It seems I messed up and got consoul parts for the new style dash.
 
PurpleFJ62 said:
I have got a small electrical problem, perhaps someone has delt with this before. I am going to use the PRNDL display for the Cummins R2.8 warning lights. I have the 4 required lights using the Park, Neutral, Drive, 2 spots. The problem is that there is a resistor in series with the light bulb that illuminates the "D". This will make the fourth warning light dimmer than the first three.

See this diagram
PRNDL Diagram

PRNDL Diagram


The PRNDL assembly has one of those flexible circuit board things, I suppose with enough care it could be removed. Has anyone ever done surgery on one of these things before?

PRNDL

PRNDL


In the intrest of making this swap look as professional as possible I went to New Vintage USA in Detroit for a custom gauge face plate, this will plug right into the factory PRNDL display. It has black face, so you will not really be able to see the symbols unless they are in direct sunlight, this is different from the OEM Toyota PRNDL display.

With light behind
PRNDL

PRNDL


Without
PRNDL

PRNDL


On a side note, I dont suppose anyone has the older style shifter boot from post #119? It seems I messed up and got consoul parts for the new style dash.
Click to expand...
This is awesome work! I have wondered how repurpose the P-L strip after doing a tranny swap.

I appreciate you posting these details :clap:
 
Looking at that diagram I don't see a resistor for just drive. It looks like drive, 2, and low share one.
 
If you apply voltage to the drive light the electricity also goes through the resistor in the picture.

Ever nltice that D is not as bright as N on your dash board? That resistor is why, i need to undo it.
 
My d light has never worked. But It looks like D,2, and L all share the same resistor. Maybe add one to the other 3 so they are all the same.
 
Do you need the "Power" light? If not just solder a wire on parallel to each of the two resistors. Or if is still needed you just need to figure out which one is which.
 
Hey All! I guess its about time for a small update since i've got a good number of pictures on my phone ready to be uploaded. I've been chipping away on little small boring tasks, plugging holes in the floor and getting my new PRNDL display up and running.

There was one hard part, removing the resistor mentioned previously. We need to remove one of the two resistors pictured here.
PRNDL

PRNDL


We need to replace it with some kind of conductor with little to no resistance. I used a small weller soldering iron with a pointed tip, I had to have my wife help me by holding the smaller copper conductor in place.
PRNDL

PRNDL


Not very pretty...
PRNDL

PRNDL


Picture of the resistor removed, don't try to unsolder the full resistor from the printed plastic circuit board, I think the chances of success are low. Maybe some of you are good with these little printed circuit board things, not me!
PRNDL

PRNDL


Another thing that must be done is to remove the colors from the arcylic light diffuser...
Acrylic Thing

Acrylic Thing


Some time with a buffing wheel and compound you should something like this
PRNDL

PRNDL


Reassemble the PRNDL assembly, now is a good time to check your bulbs. You can also verify that we have fixed our little resistance problem with a multi-meter.
PRNDL

PRNDL


R2.8 Stop Engine Light
Gauge

Gauge


R2.8 Service Engine Soon Light
Gauge

Gauge


R2.8 MIL Light
Gauge

Gauge


R2.8 Glow Plug Light
Gauge

Gauge

 
The holes in the floor were not very fun to plug. Truth be told this has been my least favorite part of the H151 swap. I absolutely hate working with sheetmetal.

Rivits seem to work a lot better than spot welding, a piece of 0.050 Alum was cut to cover all of the holes, then it was installed with seam sealer.
Plug for holes

Plug for holes

Floor Mods

Floor Mods


I messed up and placed one of the rivits in a bad spot, it required cutting a section out of the center consoul support bracket.
Floor Mods

Floor Mods

Floor Mods

Floor Mods


A little painters paper and tape to protect the interior, then a quick shot of paint
Floor Mods

Floor Mods

Floor Mods

Floor Mods


This was a waste of time looking back. I should have just cut a massive hole in the floor and made the plate out of aluminum. Too late now! I guess I will have to live with it.
 
Awesome build man! Everything looks like it's coming along just great! If you don't mind me asking how much was the R2.8 engine to trans adapater? It would be awesome to piece together kits for people looking to do the swap as a side business! :)
 
Finally got the fuel filter and oil filter mounted. Still working on the plumbing. McMaster does not seem to have 1/2 I.D. fuel hose, I guess I am going to have to go somewhere else for that. I'm still thinking about what to do for the oil filter lines, anyone have any ideas? Perhaps someone has done a remote mount filter before. I can say that the oil filter lines are going to be a real PITA to do, very complicated path, will need some hard line and some soft line to get it done right.

My mount design needs to be modified a little bit, it does not quite fit correctly to the stock evap bracket w/o a little material removal.
Fuel Filter

Fuel Filter


Fuel Filter

Fuel Filter


Fuel Filter

Fuel Filter


I got the fuel line installed between the filter and the high pressure fuel pump, simple 3/8 fuel hose using the cummins supplied quick connect fittings.

Fuel Lines

Fuel Lines


Fuel Lines

Fuel Lines


I decided to put the oil filter up where the RHD steering box would go since the left side is getting cluttered. Cummins publishes bolt pattern for the oil filter head, I am going to have to double check these numbers because my bracket does not fit very well, someone is wrong here. I could get two of the four bolts installed, I guess I will leave it for now until I get this thing done.

Oil Filter

Oil Filter


Oil Filter

Oil Filter


Oil Filter

Oil Filter


Does anyone know where to get OEM toyota fuel hose in bulk, it is so much nicer than the stuff I can get from McMaster or at any store locally. Obviously it wont come from Toyota, but they must get it from somewhere.
 
I like the Trident marine hose. This is the place I found the cheapest price. They don’t show the 5/16” hose I bought from them but they do have 1/2”
Advanced Search - Michigan Motorz
 
I would like to again ask about the fuel line people are using. Here is a picture of a piece of the return line I have, maybe someone has an idea where it came from. I do not recognize the symbol, anyone got leads?

Fuel Line

Fuel Line


The trident hose that was previously recommended is not up to par, it is the least flexible hose I have yet seen.
 
Well I guess its time for an update if anyone is keeping tabs on this. Things moving real slow right now due to another baby. I said earlier that I was looking for some really nice flexible hose to go between the 12mm hard line and the fuel filter head for the cummins. Problem was that the two parts need a different size hose.

Best I could come up with was to put a M14x1.5 to -8AN fitting in the cummins filter head, then use some nice earls super stock hose. The -8AN hose goes on the stock HDJ80 hard line perfectly, top it off with some nice stainless hose clamps and we have a very easy to service fuel system. I gotta admit, getting the hose clamp on the HDJ80 fuel line was hard, its in a tight spot and now with clutch hydraulics in the ways its almost impossible. It might be good to use a spring clamp here, or something that can be put on with pliars.

As usual photos do the talking...


1897974


1897976


I put some split loom to protect the hose against chafing. There is not really a good way to route the hose, would be a lot better without that crappy ABS in the way.

1897977


Looking forward I would like to get some input from other diesel heads on mud. As keeping with my original theme of no cutting or welding I would like to get some opinions about intercoolers. Its pretty obvious to me that the installation of an FMIC will require major mods to the core support, which I am not going to do.

So it seems to me that the only logical alternative would be a water to air intercooler system. There is enough room in from of the condenser to put a nice heat exchanger, and the water lines are much easier to snake thru tight areas.

Has anyone put a water to air system on an 80 series, and if so what brand of parts did you use? I would like to avoid having some crappy electrical pump to fail, has anyone ever done this with an engine driven mechanical coolant pump?

20190204_124852.jpg
 
We built a setup (it's all programmed, ready to be cut and bent again) that moves the stock radiator back a little and fits a nice air-air IC between the core support and newly repositioned radiator. Has a nice little tool tray built in and all. Can be seen here: Delta Vehicle Systems goes to Overland
 
I remember looking at your build. I really like it!! I wish I had the space to do a frame off build, that would be kick ass, the powder coated chassis looks amazing.

Could you post up some detailed pictures of the intercooler and radiator installed. How about clearance with the battery box? Ability to add second battery box if necessary?

What exactly does your set up include, mouting for OEM radiator and intercooler?
 
While the 2.8 is not an engine swap I would be interested in, I must say...I stand in awe of your workmanship and dedication to the project. Excellent!
 
PurpleFJ62 said:
Looking forward I would like to get some input from other diesel heads on mud. As keeping with my original theme of no cutting or welding I would like to get some opinions about intercoolers. Its pretty obvious to me that the installation of an FMIC will require major mods to the core support, which I am not going to do.
Click to expand...

A lot of the Isuzu 4BDxT builds in both 60 and 80 series use the FJ60 radiator with the stock intercooler from the Isuzu 4BD2T.
Amazon.com: Spectra Premium 4401-0703 Turbocharger Intercooler: Automotive
The intercooler hugs the radiator really tight.
Some have cut the inlet and outlet ends and turned the hose connections so they point straight out the sides instead if back at an angle. Then they use cobra heads or angled hoses to point it at exactly the angle needed.

I'm following your build, I won't have the fuel hose clamp issue since I'm switching to hydroboost. Will the R2.8 pump work fine for a hydroboost setup?
 
I am in need of pictures of battery box clearance with respect to the radiator. I dont really want more custom stuff, it will just add cost and delay to an already over budget and behind schedule project.

Got any pics to share?
 
flintknapper said:
While the 2.8 is not an engine swap I would be interested in, I must say...I stand in awe of your workmanship and dedication to the project. Excellent!
Click to expand...

I suppose you are lucky enough to have some 1hdt engines sitting around?
 
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