Builds Cummins R2.8 H151 Swap into 1993 FZJ80

Joined
Nov 24, 2014
Messages
5,701
Location
Traffic Land
You’re right, I figure I am looking for 3.0 diesel. I keep hoping a shop will figure out how to make the EcoDiesel and tranny ecu and harness run stand alone as is commonly done for LS. So far, haven’t found anyone doing it.

Banks sells their version of the 3.0 EcoDiesel for (cough, cough) $29k++.

I am wondering if the GM coding is easier to work with, EFI live came out quickly for the Colorado 2.8. They might crack the 2020 3.0 I6 quickly too. I dream of that being the LS swap of diesels for 80s.

Although now that my kids are about to start leaving the nest, I’m thinking about joining the dark side. Wrangler PU with 3.0 diesel comes out in the next year. Cost and pain of swapping is going to be $20-30k, over half the price of a new Jeep.

@PurpleFJ62 sorry about the thread hijack. You’re work is absolutely amazing, thanks for sharing! Mud is full of guys in the US that are bitter at Toyota N.A. for not offering diesels and other overseas goodies in the US (especially 70 series). You’re building my dream rig from 20 years ago: an HDJ (output equivalent) and a 5 speed manual.

What Banks sells is the same VM Motori I mentioned above at a astonishing markup.
You would be better off getting a motor from a wrecked Jeep GC at a substantially lower price.

But, who would do it?
I have not met anyone yet willing to take on this sort of swap.
I have tried a few shops local, online and here on Mud. Nobody stepped up.

Hell, I can't even get anyone to swap a Lexus 5 speed transmission into my 80. I don't know what the reason is for not willing to even attempt to do something. And I never said I want it done for free.
 
Joined
Jan 9, 2011
Messages
270
Location
Flagstaff, AZ
A lot of people will be disappointed by the MPG of these four bangers.

If you plan on doing this swap for MPG purposes, you are doing it wrong.
If you get 10MPG currently and the diesel swap will yield 15MPG, that's a 50% increase in fuel economy. But, is 15MPG something to celebrate?
In the city a 2.8 diesel will be just as efficient as 1FZ.
Diesels are not efficient when RPM fluctuates. They love to be at a constant speed. Stop and go traffic? Not impressive by any means.
Show us some real-world evidence for your mileage estimates, because your estimates are very different than the results of real-world tests of the 2.8 in a Land Cruiser. For example here they got 20.1 mpg on 32s with a GM transmission.
 

cody c

 
Joined
Feb 20, 2006
Messages
5,240
Location
calgary
There is no diesel SUV sold new on the market with such a great fuel economy. 30MPG. That's fantasy.
Those brand new SUVs have 8 speed transmissions, are very aerodynamic compared to the bricks we all drive, are much lower to the ground and low drag and friction tires.

25/30MPG for a diesel Jeep on 38's? Bulls***.

Again, where are you getting your numbers?

The numbers I mentioned were from the article below, and I misquoted, the jeep mpg

"As for drivability, now this old hunk of patina’d iron easily hauls oats down the highway at 75 mph all day long while getting 22-23 mpg. That’s amazing given the beadlocks, 38-inch mud tires, our heavy right foot, and the aerodynamic acumen of a rusted brick"

Beta-Testing the R2.8 Diesel With Cummins


and from another article where I mixed the numbers up:

"With mileage numbers of 30.8 mpg on the highway and 25.8 mpg in the city as compared to a stock 1997 Jeep Wrangler TJ with a 4.0L’s rating of 16-18 mpg highway, 13-15 city, the Cummins-powered Jeep had a carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions improvement of over 25 percent."

New Cummins Crate Engines to Provide Enthusiasts with Clean, Powerful Alternative | Cummins Inc.

Yes I know the jeep is lighter than the 80...

So again, who do you know getting 10/15mpg with a cummins R2.8?
 
Joined
Jul 26, 2012
Messages
4,735
Location
SacTown!
I would agree and disagree with this, but it depends a bit on intended usage.

If your idling down rocky creek beds and trails all day, that engine will dominate the mileage of any gas engine. They burn surprisingly little fuel when idling trails, and the torque curve it will produce is not much of a compromise for that purpose. Even putt'ing down back roads at 30-40mph that thing will just barely sip fuel in comparison.

Wayne ( @crushersrule ) mentioned someone in eastern Canada swapping a 3B out of a BJ60 into an 80 series and retained the trans and T-case, he said it performed well, we thought it would be underpowered for the 80 platform, he said it was enough power to do what the owner needed, certainly not a power house (92-100hp stock NA) but it got the owner around just fine, and that motor is underpowered next to that little cummins donk.

Now, if you drive 80mph 45 minutes to work and back everyday, and are accelerating to pass alot that little engine may not be ideal or have the power you want out of your investment, if you plan to pull a heavy trailer or boat with lots of stop lights and long hills, there are more powerful alternatives and I couldn't argue the point. It also won't have a ton of power to spin the tires, clear the mud out of the lugs or to drive like a rambunctious teenager.

I did have a BJ60 with a turbo'd 3B, it was not great for power, but putting through trails and rocky creek beds it performed well and is a simple and strong little oil burner, I do like that engine and would consider putting a turbo'd 3B in an 80 series with tires up to 35" or so.

Maybe one day my 80 will see dirt more than a few time a year, until then any swap would be useless especially small diesel for highway use.

I do plan on forced induction as the 1fz is a great platform for that and maybe add a bigger tank to address the range problem.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 24, 2014
Messages
5,701
Location
Traffic Land
You will not see more than 24-26 MPG at 65 MPH on the freeway in a 80 series.


Prove me wrong.
And please don't quote CumminGs.


I dare all of you to prove me wrong using data not bulls*** articles written by the manufacturer.
 
Joined
Nov 24, 2014
Messages
5,701
Location
Traffic Land
Delusional is a really nice way of referring to you guys.


These are the average MPG.
city/hwy numbers will vary but not by a large quantity.

These are all OEM cars, no mods, most of them optimized for fuel efficiency. Small diameter tires, low coefficient of drag, multi speed transmissions, etc.

Screen Shot 2019-01-10 at 12.39.20 PM.png


Screen Shot 2019-01-10 at 12.38.55 PM.png


Screen Shot 2019-01-10 at 12.38.13 PM.png


Screen Shot 2019-01-10 at 12.37.59 PM.png


Screen Shot 2019-01-10 at 12.37.48 PM.png
 

Mr Cimarron

DRIVE, BREAK, FIX, REPEAT
SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 8, 2011
Messages
4,716
Location
Cedar Valley, Texas
I had a Liberty CRD. Lifted with front ARB, rear swing outs, roof rack, sliders and 4.10 gears I averaged 20 mpg over 50K. I also had a Green Diesel Engineering eco tune that added a few mpg. Great little engine but very finicky due to electronics.
 
Joined
Nov 23, 2006
Messages
650
Location
Michigan
You’re right, I figure I am looking for 3.0 diesel. I keep hoping a shop will figure out how to make the EcoDiesel and tranny ecu and harness run stand alone as is commonly done for LS. So far, haven’t found anyone doing it.

Banks sells their version of the 3.0 EcoDiesel for (cough, cough) $29k++.

I am wondering if the GM coding is easier to work with, EFI live came out quickly for the Colorado 2.8. They might crack the 2020 3.0 I6 quickly too. I dream of that being the LS swap of diesels for 80s.

Although now that my kids are about to start leaving the nest, I’m thinking about joining the dark side. Wrangler PU with 3.0 diesel comes out in the next year. Cost and pain of swapping is going to be $20-30k, over half the price of a new Jeep.

@PurpleFJ62 sorry about the thread hijack. You’re work is absolutely amazing, thanks for sharing! Mud is full of guys in the US that are bitter at Toyota N.A. for not offering diesels and other overseas goodies in the US (especially 70 series). You’re building my dream rig from 20 years ago: an HDJ (output equivalent) and a 5 speed manual.
Yes I am very angry with Toyota NA for not bringing these vehicles to us. I am even more angry that their dealers cannot sell parts for foreign market cars. In general I would say that the USA has a pretty open consumer market, however the exception to this would be the automobile sector. Absolutely choked by the idiots in DC.
 
Joined
Feb 10, 2017
Messages
543
Location
Seattle
Quit filling this thread with BS and let the dude show off the massive amount of work he's putting into this.
If you want to destroy a thread with your bitching start a new one about average diesel MPG.
Otherwise keep drooling at his build like everyone else instead of bitching about mpg. If you're doing anything in an 80 for mpg you're doing it wrong.
 
Joined
Nov 23, 2006
Messages
650
Location
Michigan
How about we wait for some real world MPG numbers to come in before we start talking all kinds of s***. I would like to challenge someone to install any of the aforementioned diesel engines into an 80 series without completely bastardizing the job, lets see how far you can get. And to be clear, you can only preform 2 metal modifications to the vehicle, one to install the clutch master and the second to modify the trans tunnel to accept the h151.

Back on point. Things have been delayed due to toyotapartsdeal.com, I am waiting on some OEM clips for the trans harness. I want to get that installed correctly before I put the h151 back in. Trust me, its not very fun to do by yourself.

There has been some debate over the fuel filter setup since cummins own documentation says that the filter head needs to be vertically located between the tank and the injection pump. Without resulting to hackery this is simply not possible on this platform. Looking at Proffitts builds they located the fuel filter in the only place that makes sense, this would be close to where the 1FZ evap canister was located. The height of the fuel filter does not help, its a monster. Also the plunger sticks out parallel to the floor instead of at a 45 degree angle like the recor units do. I am convinced that Cummins let the interns design the filter head, why not just use an off the shelf recor unit?

I decided to stick with the OEM filter assembly for know, if it needs to be changed later it can be. The assembly must be mounted on the inboard side for clearance, I designed a little bracket to help with this. It uses the evap bracket which is a nice piece of toyota engineering, it is held in by 4 bolts I believe and is quite stiff.

The extra large slotted holes accept both the cummins filter and the 400 series recor, always thinking ahead. The thickness is essential because you need to be able to plug in the water in fuel sensor into the bottom of the filter. I have tried to check for hood clearance the best I could by projecting lines across the top lip of the front fenders, I think we will have about 1/2 inch.

Next up is the oil filter. Some may have noticed that the R2.8 gets a different front cover assembly than the regular ISF2.8 engine. At the beginning I was excited about the remote mount filter, now I am not so thrilled. The ISF design would be perfect in the 80 series, this remote setup will be a bitch to install correctly. Cummins says filter lines need to be less than or equal to 0.5m in length, that is kinda limiting. The LHS is completely full with the clutch, starter, fuel filter and steering box, so the only place to go is to the RHS chassis rail.

There are holes in the chassis where a RHD steering box would go, I decided to use 3 of them since the 4th one is cover by the stiffener bracket for the LHD steering box. With the filter in this position you just take off the front splash shield and the filter is right there, should be able to drain straight down into your catch pan without running all over your chassis and axle, the drawback is that I will need to make some custom oil lines to connect the engine and filter assembly. This bracket uses some countersunk bolts to attach to the filer head and tucks right up against the chassis rail.
 

cme4lyt

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 3, 2010
Messages
1,111
Location
Walnut Creek, CA Bay Area
Quit filling this thread with BS and let the dude show off the massive amount of work he's putting into this.
If you want to destroy a thread with your bitching start a new one about average diesel MPG.
Otherwise keep drooling at his build like everyone else instead of bitching about mpg. If you're doing anything in an 80 for mpg you're doing it wrong.
Agree, please start a new thread !
 
Joined
Nov 23, 2006
Messages
650
Location
Michigan
Quit filling this thread with BS and let the dude show off the massive amount of work he's putting into this.
If you want to destroy a thread with your bitching start a new one about average diesel MPG.
Otherwise keep drooling at his build like everyone else instead of bitching about mpg. If you're doing anything in an 80 for mpg you're doing it wrong.
Thanks for getting my back there! I agree with you 100%. If you want MPG I would suggest a VW TDI if you live in a place where they are not illegal, if your in commiefornia then a prius.

As for the comments about towing and doing heavy work, i'm not sure what to say. For the day when you need to haul a cubic yard of limestone get a real truck.

Previously I mentioned repairing broken electrical connectors on your harness, i'm sure others will need to do this given the age of our rigs. I already mentioned how to derive the toyota part number. For doing the surgery you need a super thin screwdriver and perhaps magnifying glasses. Toyota has a manual that is excellent on this, it is RM06H0E for your reference you need to download it, its amazing.



I followed the lead of others for the diesel cap. I think it was Rock40 that posted a pic of this Stant Cap he found, something like 5 bucks on rockauto. Easiest part of the swap thus far.

And the finished product

On other fora there has been some questions about this mystery plug on the R2.8 harness. Since Cummins is not smart enough to tell people what it is and their tech support is incapable of figuring out the answer it falls on my shoulders.

The plug in question is...

I have confirmed that this connector mates, but I have yet to install the pins and actually use it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N7821LI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have some crappy pictures of my trying to hold the fuel filter in my proposed location.

As you guys can see there is no room on the LHS of the engine bay...

Someone suggested locating the oil filter on the left chassis rail down by the shock tower, not going to happan. Like I said, its an asbolute monster and it does not even have fittings on it which will add a few inches since they are about the size of -10 or -12 AN.
 

Mr Cimarron

DRIVE, BREAK, FIX, REPEAT
SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 8, 2011
Messages
4,716
Location
Cedar Valley, Texas
Here are two option that I have used on my 12v Cummins. Don’t know if they will work for you. I’m not a fan of the plastic WIF sensor that is known to leak on 12V. The Baldwin has no provisions for draining. The Wix that I am running on my 80 has a manual drain on the bottom. I also run an small Wix in-line diesel filter since I deleted the heater/prefilter.
05CD7402-F8F2-4C49-95FB-2B034D8044BD.jpeg
05EB7B9F-AA8C-4787-B808-286A6DF4725A.jpeg
 
Top Bottom